Poor paint response
 

Hi guys

New car recently purchased- 1997 sti in white. i have noticed a good few new stone chips each time I drive the car and today I tried to polish the rear bumper using an all in one polish, green hexlogic pad and a DA. The paint appeared to stay to get removed as I started polishing? I suspect there is no laquer on the paint.
Is it common for people to do a "pre sale" tidy up of blowing the aunt on car but using lacquer? Now scared to use DA again and contemplating getting bumper resprayed. Frustrating.
To nore- used the DA on my 11 year old Mazda without any issues.

I'd be very supprised if a solid coloured M97 would have a clear coat. Fairly certain that only the metallic and mica colours had a laquer clear coat from the factory.


So oxidised paint will come off with any form of cutting polish. Not normally a issue if the paint thickness is ok.

That said, a car of this age will probably have had body/paint repair done at some point, and scoobs are a magnet for cheapskates, so a poor paint repair is also likely. Cellulose based paint (or 1k) is softer and tends to chip and oxidise more readily than high quality 2k paints, so a solid colour with a cheap repair combined with poor preparation would make stone chips more likely.

Thabk you

Just realised I didn't lube pad before use!!! Is this likely to have resulted in the paint burn? !

Not using lube will normally result in burns.

Yes that will do it- idiot

Oooh. Calm down! no need for name calling is there? Don't show people what you are really like whilst you're trying to ask for their advice or help. Always a good way to encourage people to help you.


Well done you!

Oh dear, context fail.

I thought BPR was on about lube for some other purpose ( :norty: )

And mellinator was calling himself an idiot in self-castigation :o

I was calling myself an idiot!!!!

Doh. Then polite rant completely retracted. Sorry! :)

All good mate. So I have applied touch up paint over the areas where the paint went thin or had a scratch.. The paint is now overly thick over the touch up spots. Should I lube up the DA and give it another whirl, or apply some t cut by hand and try and work it down using a finger over micro cloth to target specific areas or just leave it well alone until I can afford a bumper respray? Gutted

To be honest mate it sounds like it probably needs paint now. Are you confident with a spray can and do you know the colour code of your car?

I've found a great paint supplier and I've been able to get paint shop results with a little effort. I'd always use quality 2 part part paint with separate lacquer and after careful application and good buffing you can get things to look as new.

At the end of the day though you will never beat a proper 2 pack body shop respray.

If you've applied too much paint you may need to dry sand it very lightly before t cutting the area to get it level. Once evenly coated then I'd lacquer it and buff it up.

Paint Code is 230

Known as Feather White (Europe), Glacier White (US) or Pure White (Japan) depending where you are located.

There are three European formulations so getting the correct mix may be tricky.

Thanks guys! Really appreciate the help. What are your opinions on these mobile paint repair folk versus a proper body shop?

I've used a mobile guy in the past. Matched the cars OK that he did. One was a flat colour and perfect but I could tell where the other metallic repair was on the other car. Did OK though. Trouble is it's water based paint so you can't cut it back easily after and must keep any form of thinners away from the paint.

You're not obligated to get the work done so why not get them out to look and quote. It'll be better than you can do with a can that's for sure and they'll mix it up there and then to match the colour.

Thanks for the advice. Sounds lovely me a mobile paint repair is ok but not a patch on a body shop repair. Ok start saving for a bumper respray- just abnou My as only had the car a month and spent all my money on changing literally all fluids, Tyree, disks and pads lol skint now!! Thanks again

Not "Lubing a pad" will not result in paint burn especially with a green hex logic pad an AIO and a DA, even with a rotary on a yellow hex logic and FG400 you don't need to lube the pad, all that does is increase your working times. As long as the pad is properly primed with product the first time you start your set then you're all good.

A 1997 white Impreza is single stage paint with no clearcoat so you'd expect paint transfer onto the pad, nothing to worry about at all unless the paint is very thin which you'd not know without a paint depth gauge which will read on plastic (VERY expensive £2.5k)

Post a couple of pictures so we can see the area you are having dramas with.
Usually they use cheep laquer dont bake it in an oven and it wont key well at the edges.

Thabks guys! Yes I will get some pics but now scared to touch the DA wirubthe car!

I'm guessing here but I think the area you polished had a smart repair these types of repair generally use cheep paint and lacker they don't key well and won't have been baked in an oven. We have stopped using single stage paints in the early 90's as they were lead based. If you used a tardis type product on the area it could have removed the paint and caused the damage.

Thanks for the grest information guys. Going to just leave it for now and start saving for a full car respray in next year or two. Thabk you!

Well that's the car had the rear bumper, wings and spoiler sprayed. Sorted!! Cue the first scratch lol