Clonking rear droplinks
 

I used to have the ones that looked like urethane bushes with an S shaped bar bent round them. The needed to be lubed with grease which was a pain in the ass. They would clonk when in Need of fresh grease. I think they might have been whiteline. Now got the forged blade type which have nylon bushes. They clunk like hell ALL THE LIVE LONG DAY. Tried lubing them with spray motorcycle chain grease which should get in the small gaps well. No good.


Question....should the bolts be torqued right up meaning that the rotation has to occur between the metal sleeve that the bolt goes through and the nylon bush?


I've got an adjustable bar which I like to have on max Setting. I guess the original links would just snap with the loads that the stiffer bar gives.


James

Do you have the correct bolt size - is there play between the bolt and the bush?

Yes, got correct bolt, nice snug fit no play there.

I have a nice solution to this problem that costs no money if anyone is interested?


There was surprisingly little response to my original post so cant be arsed typing unless someone really has the same problem.

James

being fair most people use the Search function which then brings up hundreds of suggestions . . people get bored of the same questions being asked over and over again, as a newbie Id be tempted to use the Search function before slating people for not answering your question.

^^^this
And I guess with 34 posts in 13 years then you've not been the most helpful member yourself :lol1:

Just changed mine but fitted oem standard ones .. did notice the new ones were slight different as in old ones just slid out, new ones had sort of a metal sleeve had to tap them in a line them up to get bolt in . Haven't took car out yet as been waiting for other parts to turn up

Alls well that ends well.

I would be interested.

I'd also be interested,I do understand that typing with your arse isn't an easy thing to do but your advice may help in the future :thumb:

OK, for those who are interested, see attached pic for the type of links I have. Cant remember the make, but they are essentially a blade of metal with a nylon bush pressed into each end. Each bush has a metal sleeve running through it (interference fit) which the bolt goes through. The issue is that you need to tighten the bolts well but when you do it you simply clamp the bush and sleeve hard against the antiroll bar. When the suspension moves the system is locked up until the force is great enough to break the friction between bar and bush/sleeve. The problem is that there is no actual free-moving bearing, The solution is to drift out the centre sleeve from the nylon bush. Then open up the hole slightly in the bush with a round file. Next shave the sides of the bush down slightly so that when the bolt is done up the load goes only through the sleeve not the nylon bush. Grease the moving parts before final assembly for good measure and you're good to go...no more clonks!


JP

Thanks.