06 wrx limiter question?!
 

Right chaps, as above I have a 06 wrx and when I decide to not change gear quick enough and end up hitting the redline, the car loses power with a massive bosh rather the bounce of limiter that I would expect with other cars. Now , I've heard it's something that do with just how the car decides to deal with me hitting it but what can I do to make it redline better when I do hit it rather then making me s hit myself and thinking I've mashed the car up?!
Thanks in advance

No need to go anywhere near the redline mate as the turbo will tail off long before it.

Get your car on a dyno for a power run, see where it drops off peak power and this isnt far from where you should be looking to changing gear, your car will feel so much faster as you are staying in the power band,

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...38538cd35c.jpg


using this image of a dyno run as an example, you will see after 6k the torque really starts to drop off, the torque is what pushes you along, if you change at 6k then your revs go back to 3k and you get that big push again, change at 6k and yet again, if you are holding for 7k your going slower, then changing gear and getting the benefits,

hope this makes some sense.

You'll be needing a new engine if you keep hitting the rev limiter.


Another thread for the numpty corner?

I never said I WANT to hit the limiter, so Less of the numpty thread talk. Sometimes it gets hit due to me just not shifting early enough or not paying attention what whatever reason. I understand about the power dropping off and the torque band and 99% of the time the car won't even see 5.5krpm so that's not a concern. I was hoping someone had more of I idea about why the car loses power so abruptly rather then bouncing or what I could do about it to make it smoother when I do hit the limiter. Thanks for the genuine input from those that have .

It loses power because the ECU cuts all of the fuel being supplied from the injectors to protect the engine from damage. This can not be changed as it is the only way the standard ECU can do this. Other ECU's may operate differently and may cut other things to feel less severe when it happens, or be setup to not cut at all. Realistically, it shouldn't be happening that often as you shouldn't really be revving up that far. If you do this a lot, as I've already said you WILL damage your engine.

Haha .There we go ! Thanks BPR! Like I say I never mean to hit it , and like you say, I would like a way to make it less severe. Ok so , next question. I know these things are frowned upon and I do agree with the reasons why, but would a bee r limiter sort it out if I set it to say 6.7krpm and wrapped it up and hid it somewhere never to be seen again ? Hypothetically that is as I know they can be a true engine killer is played about with like some sort of toy. Be kind

I'm sure you could fit an aftermarket rev limiter and set it as you suggest to activate just below the current limiter level.


Might be worth contacting a mapper as there may even be a way of tinkering with the standard ECU, you never know.

Do you just like the noise of the car bouncing off the rev limiter? Can't see another reason to do this, just alien to me and seems weird. But happy to listen to your reasoning! :)

find a tactrix lead and just set the standard one at a point you want.

He doesn't like the fierceness of the standard one, prefers to bouce off the limiter I think, from what I'm reading.

Serious question, where would you buy a Tactrix cable from? All I can find is US supply and these are coming in at £140 + shipping as I'd love to get one for myself.

Ha yeah I'm not keen or do I plan on just mashing the limiter like a savage but yes I do like the sound, who doesn'?! I just want less harsh "recoil" let's say when I do mistakenly hit it. I managed to get all my redline antics out of the system when j had a r33, that car lived for the red line ha

With an openport and Ecuflash you can change the fuel cut limit and the limit at which fueling starts again. Mine is set to 7000 and 6980 rpm and this 'softens' the feel of the limiter nicely.

Agree with the comments about not hitting it, but certainly I've done so by accident several times, particularity in 1st gear.

As for buying an openport, they sell them on Amazon and ebay but they most likely are not Tactrix branded. I bought one of these and it broke during first use. I got lucky after as another user was selling a legit one on Amazon which I got for £210. Might be worth checking there or might have to import it from the US - least then you'll know it's a legit one!

there were 2 advertised on one post on here in the last few days . .
I got mine from the states, a 1.3 and 2.0.

:thumb:

I loved the sound on my ep3 type r's but with out having ago get your car mapped by a decent mapper with some pops and bangs added and as said try adapt your driving style to make the most out of the power band. An impreza and an r33 are wolds apart

The car was mapped by JGM years ago, before I got the car . I'll be getting a refresh done soon as I done the air pump delete so I got a light on the dash that needs deleting anywho.. I feel pops and bangs may be too much and get annoying? Not sure really as I don't want it going mad and drawing all sorts of attraction. I'll be looking into all the options though, thanks guys

with the 2.5 engines you have a few different limiters kicking in, as you approach the redline the ECU starts to close the throttle plate and prepare for the limiter. When you actually hit it then there's also a pressure value that you have to drop below before the power will be returned. On most of the stock maps this is around 10psi or less - meaning if you've built up some boost on the way to the limiter it feels like an awfully long time to wait for the turbo to spin down below 10psi before things are returned back to normal.

Often the boost limit wait is a lot longer than the fuel cut rev limit - so changing just that value will make it not so much of a slap on the wrists when you do accidentally hit the limiter - be warned though the soft limit is there to help protect the soft 2.5 pistons so unless you plan on changing them anytime soon you would be as handy trying to adjust your driving to steer clear of the limit.

WRCT25 - if your car was done with the ECUtek software then when your getting it remapped you can have the racerom stuph added in without having to buy an extra license for it, means you can have a poppy bangy noisey map and a regular tootling around one :)

Very interesting and detailed explanation :thumb:

just looked up the 2006 rom so the process will be something like this:

6450rpm your at 100% throttle opening
6500rpm your at 38% throttle opening
6700rpm the standard rev limit kicks in cutting fuel
6650rpm the rev limit is off

After the rev limit has been triggered you'll be waiting for manifold pressure to drop below 9.67psi - at which point fuel resume is allowed and off you go again. On a stock car it's only targeting 8psi at that point but once the mods are on and the target boost has been tweaked to a higher value then the wait will feel longer as the turbo has to spin down a little more.

On the early hatchbacks (rom AZ1G201G) they left the factory with the fuel resume boost value set to 24psi relative - also the throttle closing was changed going from 100% throttle at 6600rpm to pretty much closed at 6800rpm (fuel cut/rev limit was on at 6700rpm and off at 6600rpm). The end result being they would just bang off the limiter with no signs of stopping. This was "fixed" in the AZ1G202G rom where they went back to stopping all fuel until the boost dropped down to 9.67psi again. This was part of the "software update" to cure the pistons falling apart (by stopping us from hurting them).

Great info. :thumb:

Thanks for the detailed explanations, it makes sence to me . This race Rom sounds like a good idea if I can have two maps as you as. Noisy boisterous mode and chill mode. Sounds idea! Thanks