parts for mapping
 

just after a bit of info. got another date with andy f before he heads off to australia to have a go at world time attack. bought a decat pipe which im about to wrap to go with the ported and wrapped headers im fitting also. there doesnt appear to be a boss for the lambda sensor on the pipe tho? is the sensor located on the mid pipe instead of the d/p on a newage? (car is bug sti) pic:
Attachment 42860
also have an up pipe which is wrapped im sure it was for my classic wagon but i think it fits the bug? i measured both ends and one end is narrower than the other. is this what is known as a venturi up pipe? is it supposed to help spool with the narrower opening? pic:
Attachment 42861
i also have a 3 port boost solenoid from an apexi avcr would this be worth fitting? does it just plumb in instead of the origional? i also have a short ram induction kit but im wondering if its worth fitting or sticking with the standard airbox which has a k&n panel filter fitted atm ? i could knock up a heat shield of some kind i suppose to deflect warm air away? it will be mapped on the standard vf35. opinions welcome chaps cheers. oh anyone with similar mods on a bug sti feel free to post what power you ended up making. will be mapped on ecutek btw. :)

boing!

mapping
 

Anyone know about the downpipe issue? Hoping to fit these bits this week. Cheers

someone must know about the downpipe surely??

newage cars have the primary o2 in the headers (look behind the drivers wheel for it) so no bung in the downpipe. The rear o2 is in the 2nd part of the standard downpipe just before the rear cat.

If your new downpipe replaces both then it should have a spot for the rear o2 to plug into - but check with Andy as he can probably disable the rear o2 entirely so you'll not need it plugged in.

the 3port should hook up exactly the same as any other 3port - one line to atmosphere, one line to compressor nipple, one line to wastegate nipple and 2 wires into the ECU harness. Don't fit it before the map though fit it on the day and don't drive on it until it's mapped (or hook up the vac lines but leave the ECU wires disconnected so it's not active). Otherwise you'll be overboosting all over the shop.

Short ram will usually be a pointless upgrade, standard airbox with a decent/clean panel filter will do the job on most setups especially if your still on the standard turbo.

Hi there

Most of DP have welded boss on end of the DP or near the bell mouth(this is good if you are running aftermarket wideband),but you can have fitted lambda sensor in center pipe,really depends on more factors and depends on yours mapper too and what ECU you will be running,but you will be running stock ECU assume will be mapped like Open Source or EcuTek and there you can turn off second lambda sensor which should be OK

Does yours center pipe have welded bosses for Lambda if not then I would weld boss for lambda on DP or center pipe

Apexi AVCR boost solenoid we are used on our wagon and we are used same sensor on our EP3,which has been perfect and I would say its best aftermarket boost solenoid

About the running short ram induction kit,if you are still on TMIC then I wouldn't brother,but this depends on you,if you want to fit then fit,you will not gain or loose with aftermarket short ram,good shielding will help with heat soak

But still I would rather run stock airbox with good old K&N or Green Cotton for time being and if you want to run FMIC then I would go with RCM induction kit which is best and well proven on numerous cars there

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura

bludgod thanks for your input bud :thumb:
jura good to see your still around the site and thanks for replying you always give good advice :) i will ask andy f to plumb in the apexi solenoid on the day. any idea on the uppipe? i know the bug sti has no cat in the uppipe but thought this was worth fitting (if it fits its from a classic i think?) seeing as its all wrapped anyway. it does narrow at the turbo end but maybe all upipes do that anyway? also not sure on wrapping the downpipe as some say its pointless as its after the turbo?

no problems mr - happy to help :)

The uppipes are all the same fitment so your classic one will fit on your car no hassles, worth doing if it's already wrapped and yes they all taper like that.

As for wrapping the downpipe, I'd do the top portion of it just to keep the under bonnet temps down - make sure and get the turbo heat shield back on too (you'll have to snip bits out of the standard one to fit it around bellmouth of the downpipe). Otherwise you'll end up heating up one half of the intercooler and the hotter air charge will rob you of power.


See how this ones been done:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...d772939e9e.jpg

seems like a good idea bud will go with that and wrap the upper portion. my only concern was with hearing stories of downpipes cracking etc with the high temps once wrapped. i say this as this pipe seems to be thinner grade stainless steel. i have a cast type one in the loft from my classic and its bloody solid and weighs a ton whereas i can lift this pipe with one finger.

Hi there

Agree about the wrapping the DP on upper side,we are done same,in past we are wrapped fully and this doesn't make any difference on the car at all

Wrapping up pipe I would do if its possible and using wrapped Classic Up pipe I would use,I think they're both same and should be OK,there can be small difference

Regarding the plumbing 3 port have look on this

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...-plumbing.html


Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura

cheers jura, i will let andy f plumb in the solenoid im sure he,s done a few in his time lol. hopefully the up pipe will fit as it already wrapped.