Fittings for 3/4" (garden) hoses?
 

Anyone know of any?
My 1/2" hose in France has perished, gone sticky and started spouting leaks under the french 10bar pressure. I was going to buy a nice 3/4" hose but they wanted €80 for it, about £56 at the time, whereas Screwfix do one for £25 or so.

But......I can't find any fittings, tap connector, spray head etc?

Sorry can't help you specifically on that one, Jeff, but you may remember the issue I have with my outside kitchen tap. Very old, looks like some kind of BSW thread but I haven't the tool to measure the pitch/check before buying a hose fitting. Have you anything for that?

You should find something suitable in this list..................

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&k...l_2zze6xm2u0_b

Just get a normal hose, chances are your copper pipework is 14 or 16mm supplying the hose so there is zero point in a 19mm hose.
If you insist on the large hose then Hozelock type fittings are available but you'll be forever having to use adaptors to fit the items on the end of the hose (spraygun, pressure washer, sprinkler etc).

Hadn't thought of that, tbh. The French mains is at circa 8bar, so thought 3/4" was a better proposition.

Andy, have you tried any fittings on the tap?

I got 2 internally threaded plastic connections IIRC, from Wilkinsons a while back. Neither fitted but I forget what they were. I'm pretty sure being that old a tap it's BSW or BSP.

Ask at Jacksons...or could we replace the tap?

8 bar?
you got problems, man.

The domestic side should be around 3 bar.

If you really have 8 bar you need a pressure reducer which should be fitted next to your water meter. If the mains pressure is very high this is sometimes done by the mayors of your commune or the water supply company. You might even already have one - they dont last forever.

Really? No-one told me that.

Yeah - your house plumbing is under too much pressure. If you have a cylindrical tank electric water heater its probably only rated to 6 or 7 bar, so you run the risk of popping it, and are putting too much strain on taps and pipe joins.

Bricodepot sell reducers for about €30.

http://www.bricodepot.fr/castres/red...027/prod34593/

Fit it inline after your water meter. Like I say, there might be one there already if you are in a high pressure area and if you really have 8 bar it will have failed.
I dunno if you are in a town or small village etc - here the water for my commune is collected from a natural spring and my house is a fair bit below it so the pressure in the pipes is high, hence the need for the reducer.

Fairly small town, we are in a hamlet 3km from it. Ours comes from an underground reservoir whose pH is usually around 6.4.....hence blue rings round all the porcelain.

My chauffe-eau was 10 bar rated.

It's a possibility depending where the join is and what's involved.

I need your assistance in removing my joining bath tap and either stripping/cleaning or replacing it for a new one. Sodding hard water areas :D

Joining bath tap?
Can we turn both hot and cold off easily since you had the plumbing updated?

Errrrrrrrm...

:lol1:

It's normal practice to have a regulator on the supply after the meter in French property. The incoming pressure at my place is a little over 7 Bar. I have oil-fired central heating and when the regulator packed up all the (over)pressure release valves leaked as they have a 4 bar or lower rating depending on use.
Try looking immediately after the meter or, because fitment there may be awkward, at the closest point where fitment is convenient prior to the pipe branching off.
The regulators usually look a bit like a spinning top about 5-8cm in diameter with adjustment on top by allen key or flat screw. You will also usually have a pressure dial on the cold feed somewhere to allow you to adjust the regulator to the correct value (3 bar-ish).

That 10 bar on your water cylinder is a max safety in use rating rather than a target value.

The only thing on my incoming supply is the meter, which does have the spinning bit. Could a pressure reducer be incorporated? There is nothing between that and the first split off.
The plumber who installed our boiler seemed to think all was OK...apart from the sour water, that is.

Is there an isolation valve/tap shortly after your meter where you can shut the supply off when you leave/over Winter.
If so then the logical place for a regulator is after this isolation point. Just cut the pipework and install it with suitable fittings, checking that the regulator has no restrictions regarding orientation that may determine its position (it may have to be horizontal with adjuster at top for example). You can fit a pressure gauge anywhere you want in the cold water supply line.