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Water sloshing about - but where??
I can hear water sloshing about in my car during acceleration/braking, but can't figure out where it is.
Sounds like it is coming from in front of the passenger. Do the sills have drain holes - couldn't see any. Sounds like it is coming more from the bulkhead. No evidence of water ingress in the cabin - no damp carpet or anything. Could it be that it's just water in the heater matrix/system and perfectly normal? Or is it possible for water to be trapped in the bulkhead somewhere? Door drain holes are clear, so it's not them. Any ideas? |
Originally Posted by TECHNOPUG
(Post 11620097)
I can hear water sloshing about in my car during acceleration/braking, but can't figure out where it is.
Sounds like it is coming from in front of the passenger. Do the sills have drain holes - couldn't see any. Sounds like it is coming more from the bulkhead. No evidence of water ingress in the cabin - no damp carpet or anything. Could it be that it's just water in the heater matrix/system and perfectly normal? Or is it possible for water to be trapped in the bulkhead somewhere? Door drain holes are clear, so it's not them. Any ideas? Think it's just the fuel |
Originally Posted by MATT93
(Post 11620128)
Both my STI's have done this so I'm pretty certain it's normal.
Think it's just the fuel |
This is a common symptom of an air lock in the coolant system. If you search, you'll find a recommended method for refilling the system which should avoid this. Plenty of people have had joy with this method, but I tried and failed so will live with it until I do the next change. As long as your temperature readings are stable and you're not losing water you should be fine.
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Originally Posted by fl@ four
(Post 11620139)
This is a common symptom of an air lock in the coolant system. If you search, you'll find a recommended method for refilling the system which should avoid this. Plenty of people have had joy with this method, but I tried and failed so will live with it until I do the next change. As long as your temperature readings are stable and you're not losing water you should be fine.
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Matrix air lock behind passenger dash
As said above |
My old version4 sounded like that,when I put my hand into the rear n/s wheel arch well to check how bad the rusting was I found about 2 litres of water in there :freak3:
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Originally Posted by jazzyjembreaze
(Post 11620212)
Matrix air lock behind passenger dash
As said above |
To add, engine temp is consistent and hasn't changed since I've had the car. Heater's blow hot as normal. Haven't noticed any change in anything's performance/operation.
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From cold, remove the header cap...turn your heaters on full hot and the fans on full, start the car and top up slowly, might need to do it a couple of times but it will go eventually.
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The header tank is marked as "Full" when the engine is cold, is that correct? If the coolant is at that level when cold, will I not run the risk of over-filling?
I would have thought that if there was an airlock, the coolant wouldn't circulate and the engine temp would rise as the coolant is not passing through the rad. |
Originally Posted by TECHNOPUG
(Post 11620253)
The header tank is marked as "Full" when the engine is cold, is that correct? If the coolant is at that level when cold, will I not run the risk of over-filling?
I would have thought that if there was an airlock, the coolant wouldn't circulate and the engine temp would rise as the coolant is not passing through the rad. |
Burp the top rad pipe with the engine running and expansion cap off. You might lose a little from the first couple of squeezes but you will find it will release the air pockets in the matrix and then keep topping up until no more pockets are released. No more sloshing.
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I woulnt have thought an airlock would make a sloshing sound? More of a gurgle/bubbling sound. Sloshing would be just normal petrol tank sound or rain water trapped somewhere as it was on my old classic.
But if it is airlock then you will have to drain and replace coolant the correct way |
Hmmm....I really need to be sitting in the passenger side whilst the car is driven, so that I can pinpoint exactly where it is coming from. It's definitely liquid moving - sloshing was the best way I could describe it.
The sound location could be deceptive, given the shape of the car, echoes, transient sounds etc. Heater matrix is where the location sounds like it's coming from. But no issue with temps or heaters. Would an airlock "slosh"? When I have had similar in other cars, it has been sills. Are there definitely no drain holes forward or aft of the sills which may be blocked? It's like having an annoying squeaky trim but only hearing it whilst you are driving.....so never able to actually investigate where it is coming from. |
Originally Posted by brendy76
(Post 11620277)
Burp the top rad pipe with the engine running and expansion cap off. You might lose a little from the first couple of squeezes but you will find it will release the air pockets in the matrix and then keep topping up until no more pockets are released. No more sloshing.
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Any bottles of coke stuck under a seat?
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Id say its more likely to be water trapped under the scuttle panel, sort of where the wiper motor and linkage would sit, its possible the drain tubes either end have blocked up and the rain waters not running away like it should, take the wiper arms off, lift the scuttle panel plastic and have a look in there see if you can see aany puddles.
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Definitely sounds like air lock to me. Take the cap off the header tank and leave it off overnight. When you go back to it in the morning you will see that the coolant has gone down due to the air finding its way to the top. Top it up and maybe do it the next night or 2 and that should sort it.
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Ever get to the bottom of this Technopug ? Just had coolant replaced as part of my service and now hear the same sloshing when car is first started.
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Had this on my missus's old astra convertible.
Stuck it on a ramp in the air and noticed some rubber bungs under the sills. Pulled one off and about 2litres of water came out. You'd be lucky but its worth a shot? |
Originally Posted by Jonnys3
(Post 11669911)
Ever get to the bottom of this Technopug ? Just had coolant replaced as part of my service and now hear the same sloshing when car is first started.
It may be airlocked if they refilled it carelessly, and there is NO KNOWN WAY TO BLEED IT. You MIGHT get lucky, but best to drain and refill if it is airlocked, do a search on here under my username for a how to on refilling without airlocking. |
As above, get it done again using correct method. I had this for a while after purchase with mine. Got steadily worse, in very cold weather it was worse but not enough to show an increase in the factory temperature gauge, but after plugging in OBD3 reader you could see temps steadily rising when driving at low throttle, then clearing when giving it a rev. Presume this was turning the water pump faster to overcome a slight airlock?
I had my whole coolant system tested and new coolant put in by specialist and no more sloshing :) |
Originally Posted by Jonnys3
(Post 11669911)
Ever get to the bottom of this Technopug ? Just had coolant replaced as part of my service and now hear the same sloshing when car is first started.
Try burping the top hose first. Too add, my temp gauge has always beeen rock soild at just over half way when up to temp. So either the coolant was change was OK and the sloshing/airlock didn't effect the cooling efficiency.....or my temp guage is goosed :lol1: |
Think mine is settling down again too, but I did search for Alcazar's guide and found this:
Originally Posted by alcazar
(Post 10282101)
If it's not been changed, flush it through with some clean water, or buy something to flush it.
Draining: there is a little tap at the base of classic rads, or yes, remove bottom hose. Refilling: Make sure car heater is set to "hot". On the metal rad cap on top of the engine, there are some hoses. Remove the REARmost one and fit a funnel into it. Pour the antifreeze mix (50%, ok?), into this avoiding any "glugging". Keep doing so until you see the level in the metal reservoir rise to the top, at which point, remove funnel and refit hose. Now, without refitting the resevoir CAP, start engine and wait for it to warm. Watch for bubbles, top up/mop up as necessary. Once it's warm, refit rad cap, go a for a drive round the block, check level once it cools and refill, if necessary via rad cap and overflow. Job done....no bleeding necessary, or possible. |
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