Rear End Water Leak - MY05
 

Hi All,


I noticed middle of last week the drivers side rear light cluster had about 2 inch of water sat inside it and the underside of the boot lid had some condensation on it.

After emptying the boot of the few items that were in there I noticed the carpet and spare wheel cover were damp but the spare wheel tub was also under about an inch of water along with the two pockets in the corners (Where the jack and intercooler spray bottle are located) :cry::cry:

After spending some time striping parts off and bailing as much of the water out I left a few old towels in to soak up the remainder of the water.

I also removed the rear light and drained out as much as I could then left it a few days with the boot open in the garage to allow it to dry out.

Checked today and all the boot has dried out :luxhello::luxhello:

Just left now to try and work out how all areas mentioned became full of water :wonder::wonder:

I presume some water has com in via the rear light cluster, when removed the sticky baffle on the rear was damp but more worryingly it was split.

I then wondered if the boot lid is leaking through the spoiler fixings ??

Anyone experienced anything similar ??

Anyone know where I can get these baffles for the rear lights from ??

Cheers
Mark.

LOL....just about anyone with a classic and lots with newage cars.

First off, the areas that water can get in, in order of likelihood:
1. Rear Light surround/seal.
2. Spoiler and it's wiring holes.
3. Rear screen seal/wash-wipe seal.
4. Boot neoprene seal.
5. The air inlet/outlet on the outside of the wings, under the bumper.

And how to cure 'em:

1. Remove light unit, scrape off all (or as much as you can) old sealant from light unit and car bodywork. Buy some of this: http://www.caravan-components.co.uk/...-in-400ml-Tube.
Squeeze an approx 15mm dia CONSTANT bead right round the light unit, bed back into place, retighten (but not OVER-tighten) nuts holding light in place.
Any excess sealant can be removed by scraping and white spirit + paper towels.

2. Remove spoiler, then place a 10mm diameter CONSTANT bead around every bolt and wiring hole, replace spoiler and retighten bolts/screws.

3. Professional job, screen removed and resealed....or, if you can SEE where water is getting past it, TRY and squeeze some Carafax under it.

4. Try and locate where the seal is letting water through. Talc and paper towels are good. If the seal is damaged, replace the whole thing, scrappers are your friend.
If not, pull the seal up, place a smear of Carafax under it and replace it.

5. Ensure the little flaps can open AND CLOSE. Debris often blocks them open.

Carafax is a decent no-setting sealant used extensively on Caravans to protect seams, screw holes etc.
DO NOT use silicone or Tiger Seal etc, not unless you NEVER want the light units, spoiler etc off again;)
HTH.

Top man, Thanks for the advice (Again) :thumb::thumb:

Any particular place to run the bead of sealant around the light unit, from experience where is it best located ??

Check the clip around the boot lock. It's up inside the boot and will leak if lose. I know from experience :thumb:

Cheers, will add that to the list of checks. :thumb::thumb:


Is there anywhere on the high street where this type of sealant can be purchased as I have this afternoon spare.


B&Q, Screwfix, Wickes etc.... ??

Most caravan dealers, or internet.

You could try a vehicle paint specialist, as about NON SETTING sealants.

mine was the spoiler, I bought some clear sealant undid all the screws and just covered everything in the sealant, mines been water free since :)

Yep, it works...for a while.
Hope you never need it off again.........

I used that bathroom sealant stuff, the jelly type one, just scrapes off

It's silicone.
If you've stuck the spoiler on with that, best of luck getting it off again.

You MAY not need to......but in my experience, it cracks.

I can't say I would be too interested in going down the silicone route unless you used something like HA6 RTV Marine Silicone Sealant, It is used to put aquariums together among other things. It can remain water tight even when immersed and doesn't shrink, isn't penetrated by salt or UV.

But as alcazar said it isn't coming back off again :lol1::lol1:

Would consider it for the spoiler but not the lights :nono::nono:

I seem to recall a friend using this stuff......

http://www.caravan-components.co.uk/...ucts/SBS31109R

To fit a run on the underside of an after market replica spoiler that didn't quite fit perfectly, Did the job and was quite neat.

but I guess a run of the other suggested sealant would do the trick, just neatly wipe away excess after replacing the spoiler and job done ??

i am having massive leak issues in the boot of my blobeye sti

my spoiler is leaking water and also the boot seal is shagged,run a watering can down the rear window with the boot open and see if any gets past the boot seal........mine looked in a1 shape but with the boot seal in place it leaked,pour the same amount of water in the same area with the boot seal off and no leaks

Scooby Mark: that stuff you posted a link to is the same as Carafax, except maybe easier to use: doesn't need a sealant gun.

Shreksta: That's weird.
Do the spoiler first, then maybe get a new/second hand seal?

I guessed it was similar, Not available in Black though so think I will order the other stuff.


Do a run around the edge of the spoiler and around all holes then just wipe away the excess once refitted.
Same with the rear lights.


Two tubes to seal both rear lights and under the spoiler ??

Alcazar,

is this the same kind of sealant as you recommended ??

http://www.sealantsdirect.co.uk/arbo...FSsCwwodW20A8Q

Website says...

* One part oil based sealant for general pointing and sealing of most construction joints
* Once cured, product forms a solid surface skin and the substance underneath permanently remains non setting and pliable

Seems I got it wrong last night, that link you sent only had it in white and cream and as its a black car.... well I think black will blend in better.
:cool::cool:

That might do it, but I'm unsure of the words "A solid surface skin".

For the lights, I'd use Carafax anyway, the part that beds in is invisible from the outside anyway, and you have to remove the trim to see anything of the inside too.

As for spoiler, if you put a 15mm bead about 30mm from the edge of the spoiler, then tighten down, it will be invisible too.
Mine's a red car, and is bedded on Carafax.

One tube did the spoiler, both lights and some spare.

Sorry should have explained better, not the spoiler, under the bonnet where the screws go in, I just covered the screws with it

Update
 

Finally got a full afternoon free today to have a go at sorting these issues out, car has dried out nicely so time to seal the spoiler and lights.


Got the spoiler off quite easily this afternoon and I must say no wonder these things leak over time. I was very surprised to see the run of sticky backed foam sealant used hadn't been applied all the way around with large gaps between runs, was never going to prevent water getting in. :cuckoo::cuckoo:


Anyway spent a good few hours with the hair dryer removing all of it and generally drying out and cleaning the underside of the spoiler and boot lid.


The foam itself was wet and evidence of condensation within the brake light and general dampness around all holes and thin rubber washers.


Put a good run of sealant around the edge and around all the holes and re-fitted the spoiler, pleased that there wasn't a massive amount that squeezed out once re-fitted. The small amount that did was wiped away and the sealant line smoothed over and tidied up with sealant wipes.


Its left a very neat continuous line all around the gap between the boot and spoiler that isn't noticeable, so very pleased. :luxhello::luxhello:


Hopefully that will prevent a repeat of the puddle in the boot. :cool::cool:


Will re-seal the rear lights over the weekend.

5. The air inlet/outlet on the outside of the wings, under the bumper
Just would like to know what these are because somone has sealed them up on my classic
Thanks

They are there to allow air in/out to equalise pressures when forcing air in via the heater controls.