2.0/2.1/2.35 for drag
 

Hi all,
I have a bugeye prodrive style sti that im looking to attend some drag racing with,the car is beeing stripped to the very least basic looking to reach the 1100kg or nearer so in other words it will not see any road use just drag and the occasionally one off trackday.I need the car to runs 10s so obviously will be coupled with a rotated gt35

Which Engine route should i go to for my application?I know the 2.35 basically carries the premium of the crankcase but is it worth over the others for my use?
Cheers
Matthew

An old blob wrx with two cylinders down on compression is apparently the king of the drag strip

If your wanting over 600bhp and have the budget to do it, I would go fir 2.35
But you can build 2.1 that will run over 550bhp and save yourself some dosh,


Bez

Previously i had a blob impreza sti jdm that was stroked to 2.1 and with the stock vf37 it used to run 11.85 so i know the 2.1 is good business.is it possible though that with the same boost/turbo and setup the 2.35 will produce more power?As someone once told me that for top end power the 2.0 is the most efficient of all

Hi Matthew

As above I would go with 2.35 if you want to run GT35 or with CDB 2.5L,we have run 2.35L with GT30 or with GT35

2.35L will spool better 35R than 2.1L,you can go route with 2.1L and NOS which will help you with spool up or you can use this only for top end,we have used NOS for spool up and for top end

I would suggest you speak with several engine builders and mappers too

Depends on target BHP,but I would go with 2.35L or CDB 2.5L,14mm headstuds as minimum,good heads with good cams etc

2.35L has been proven on numerous cars and now CDB 2.5L are too starting to catching up with numeorus builds and they're making nice power with earlier spool,although 2.5L is bit lazier to drive,not sure if this is down to the EJ257 crank,but you can go route of the de-stroker'd 2.5L with EJ207 crank and longer rods and custom pistons and this setup should spool similarly like 2.0L

Hope this help

Thanks,Jura

Hi Jura,
To tell you the truth i was considering the cdb 2.5 which seems to cost a little more than the 2.2 cdb.The problem with the 2.2 is its not as readily available as a 2.5 cdb.I need 600bhp for sure for solid 10s so im a little afraid of the 2.5 though i like it very much

I didnt intend to do any form of destroke the engine though as i find the ej257 crank throw and stock rod length more proven and available.I used the cosworth ultra studs before and im sure they are more than up to the job for my use so will stick to those again i think.So it will be a 2.35 or a cdb 2.5 lol.I think a 2.35 will have more top end power than the 2.5 on same boost/turbo so i think it would be the best for my use after all

Fastest 4 cylinder drag Impreza in the world runs a 2.1 stroker.
I run a Cosworth stroker in mine too. 10.06 1/4 is pb from last year with a fair bit to come from it with all the winter mods.

I'd be inclined to agree with Martyn, a 2.1 will do exactly what you need....

Hi Martyn,Just to see if im understanding the reply as its suppose to mean..you 'rate' the 2.1 'better' than the 2.35 for drag and the very occasional trackday coupled with a rotated gt35 on a 1200kg newage?i assume you're refering to the cdb 2.1 not scdb offcourse.Thanks

Matthew

Hi Matthew

I would say depends on yours target,but if you want to run GT35 then 2.35 or 2.5L with CDB insert will be probabaly best choice,I think Drew from 22b forum

You will need bit more for solid 600bhp in new age STI,you are will be probably in low 1300kg with stripped New age,low 1200kg is possible,but you will need to spend bit more there

Cosworth headstuds are OK,but if you will be pushing around 2bar boost then I would go with 14mm headstuds,those cost around £300-£400,please speak with Alyn or other suppliers

Thanks,Jura


Hi Martyn

Assume you are mean classic not heavier new age

But agree on yours is very good time and almost in 9's,well done Martyn

Thanks,Jura

On heavier new age and 35R?

I don't think there....

Thanks,Jura

I love the way the 2.1 just revs and revs and keeps taking all the punishment you're throwing at it. The 2.35 always seems so much more fragile and of course as the block costs 3 times the price that makes you nervous right away.
You'll have just as much fun with either to be fair.

I never tought the 2.2 cdb was more fragile than the 2.0 one.i assume that the sleeves are thinner than the 2.0 one then.Is the 2.0 cdb that much better than the 2.0 scdb being that its an old block now(circa 20 years)?thx

It's the best there is for your intended use. I have ran mine to 2.7 bar boost on a larger than normal Clinic 35 and added 60hp of NOS on top so far.

And I want to crack 600hp on mine in the near future ;)

a big :thumb: from me ,love the 2.1 in mine .

It's gonna be a 2.1 pedal fest at Shakey this year all being well Marty ;)
Loads of winter mods being carried out on mine.

2.7 bar on a gt35 should do 9s on race fuel lol thats crazy

*******

I agree but to be fair to myself (lol) our local drag strip doesn't have the best surface being an old ww2 airfield and having no track prep.
Pulled a load of weight from the car recently and have every intention of getting back to Shakey this year.
Should be good for a low 9 all being well.

A 2.1 can be just a good on the drag strip as a 2.35, but on the track I think you will find a 2.35 a better set up with a GT35.

so why is the gobstopper still a 2.0

Or go for a 2.3 im using a 2.3 destroked with a 2.0 79mm short throw crank. I get the torqe of a 2.5 and it revs fcukin quick made 354.8bhp and 370nm torqe on a standard td05 16g top entry

future mods

Reversed manifold
Sc46 billet
parallel fuel rails

10% meth mix will crack 500 :)

Simple answer Nos, sequential box, revved very high and refreshed regularly!

Yes doesn't quite fit into the realms we are talking about here!