Remap Advice??
 

Where's the best place to get my Subaru Impreza remapped?

Indigo GT
Bob Rawle at Swindon
Powerstation at Tewkesbury

There is no "best mapper" they are all good in their own rights at what they do.

Do you want a rolling road map or a road map? Do you want ecutek or open source?
Are you running aftermarket ecu?
What year is your car?

All info you you neglected to mention ;)

The car is running a standard ecu. Its a 03 plate blobeye.

Ive had loads of problems with the car, engine management light came on saying running too lean. The engine had a slight rattle when you start but then cleared when warm (got tucked up when I bought it) so ive recently changed the engine as was advised running lean could be a air leak somewhere, was hoping it would sort out both problems. Engine was changed last weekend and still had engine management light on saying running lean so I changed the lambda sensor then it came up misfire cylinder 1, I changed the coil pack this morning then It came up misfire cylinder 2 so ive just changed all 4 coil packs. The management light is now off and no more codes.

The car is fitted with a air filter, exhaust/de-cat and a front mount so just want a basic map to make sure everything is ok.

what would you advise?? road map or rolling road?

I just want to make sure that it has been setup for the mods it has got fitted as its my everyday car

I had mine done at Indigo GT mate which is local to you.

Like others have said there are many choices but for me it was the locality and the fact that Indigo have a good reputation.

If the car has not already been mapped then the error codes showing may relate to removal of the cats, intercooler and replacing the filter.

That will alter fuelling and air ratios and also may make the car a bit of a pig to run.

Noises bottom end which disappears when warm is quite common on the boxer engine, after all the pistons do run in their sides and the forces of gravity still apply. If it disappeared when warm this is known as "piston slap" and as said is common throughout the years.

Mapping is a personal choice. I've always road mapped as thats where the car lives, mapped on real world and road conditions, or best of both would be using RR and tweaking the final bit of the map out in the road making sure all is correct.

Has your car previously been mapped and if so do you know by who? If not and you take the ecutek route there at plenty of mappers who travel the uk. Nothing wrong with indigo either but they specialise in Evos, I know they do imprezas as well and I also have a few friends who have been mapped there.

Ecutek will cost £150 for the licence before you start and then the mapping fees plus any additional features on top.

Open source is becoming widely used now which Duncan aka racedynamix specialises in and also maps at indigo. There is no initial fee for a licence so £150 cheaper before you start. Open source mappers are limited vs ecutek distributors, another open source guy is Andy Carr.

Plenty to choose from just do your research :thumb:

Thanx for the reply. I bought the car in December so only going on what I can see. Don't know if or who has remapped it and thought that could give me the faults but want sure. The noise on the engine has gone now as I have fitted a different engine in the car.

I have just gone out and the light has come back on again, it splutters a bit but still boosts ok. Not sure what it is as I haven't got my machine with me. I have removed the front mount and fitted a standard intercooler back on to try it incase it hasn't been mapped for it.

What are my best options??? Do I put front mount back on and take it for a remap? Should this sort my problems out

No need really for the front mount at your spec tune. I'm assuming your still on standard turbo?

Either way it needs mapping regardless of intercooler choice purely down to cats being removed. Ecu will compensate to certain degree as it learns, but best getting it checked over and mapped properly for the mods you have done.

If it still splutters like a pig perhaps your maf is playing up, or you have air leaks after the maf.

Best bet is to do a full ecu rest and check the codes from there.

I wouldn't advise driving it hard and giving it boost at all until looked at, otherwise the engine you've just fitted may end up as bad as the one you removed.

Who advised you to change the bottom end? Was it that bad to warrant it? Also who done the de cat and fitted the Fmic? If that was fitted before your ownership and pervious owner had problems I wouldn't be supprised if you've just bought them!

3 arches garage in Cardiff are Subaru gurus and are ex CVC techies. If you want to have it checked over then contact them. They don't do mapping but just about everything else they do, so for piece of mind get a health check and definitely get it mapped asap and don't give it boost.

Is it a wrx or sti by the way?

its a wrx mate

RIGHT, ive just got home and plugged it in, its running lean and misfire cylinder 1, misfire cylinder 2, misfire cylinder 3, misfire cylinder 4!!!!

HELP!!!

All the parts were fitted before I bought the car. I changed the engine as the noise was taking longer to go. it started off about 2-3 seconds then just before I changed it it was about 6-7 seconds before it stopped. I wanted to change the engine and was hoping it would sort the problems out before it went in for a respray. It was booked in for Friday but going in on Monday now hopfully fixed :-)

Could be the nps or cam sensor giving misfire codes

I was thinking the same thing with random misfire codes, but ain't sure if they had them on the 5 speed boxes

im sure I have read somewhere on the forum to change the fuel filter and that solves the random misfire but im still getting the running lean fault code

Your going to get fault codes due to no cats! Ecu thinks all the standard parts are still there.

It's like asking why a car won't start when you know there is no battery on there.

Also as said your MAF may be faulty, try unplugging it and see what happens and if it logs any different codes.

I have tried another maf sensor and its the same. when its run unplugged it brings up maf fault codes

It probably just wants mapping to suit ur mods

If i was you i would contact Bob Rawle and ask him about it

ok thanx guys. another thing I have noticed today is that it sometimes boosts to 20psi and other times to 10psi. its random..

Will be down to the map. Anything changed or removed (if not like for like) will need calibrating.

Certain things you may get away with as the ecu can learn to cope with certain alterations but everything all at once may be a bit to much to ask and won't be running within Set parameters.

I'm surprised your not getting boost cut as 20psi is near enough 1.5bar, that on a modified unmapped car is asking for trouble imho.

Scoobysim. I am in Cardiff this afternoon if it helps .... As said it just sounds like it needs a map rather than specific problems solved pre mapping. :thumb: