Originally Posted by alanbell
Thats true to all trades , !!!
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MMmm LoL mate Im a Builder ???? So I wont go there ??? , Anyway back on topic , lol.
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been doing a bit of investigating and there seem to be plenty of DIY 2.5 threads out there, seen some good threads on 22b and P1oc
I'm almost quite excited at the fact of getting my hands dirty and getting stuck in, if not a little worried about being in way over my head :cuckoo: before I get carried away need somewhere to work on it first, so going to look as mentioned before for a garage or workshop or shed, then need to buy some tools. Plus need to save for the shortblock ... Dont laugh but I'm like the block who cant afford the swimming pool yet so he has bought the diving board and pool cover first :lol1: :lol1: |
DIY 2.5 rebuild project then
Just read this from a 22b post "...Yes, block is std, as it came out the box.
I trust Subaru know more about building engines than I do....I don't have the knowledge to start playing with bearings and clearances, that's why the short block was the perfect solution for me .." sounds like my perfect solution too... any glaring obvious things that I could fubar it with :wonder: I am concerned over the reliability over the pistons in the stock 2.5 that i have read about, seems to be lots of discussion on this, If I dont intend to take it over 350 are they ok :wonder: I wouldnt have the confidence to strip down the new short block |
Standard block is more than capable of taking 350/350, so don't worry about that.
As long as you keep everything spotless, when fitting the oil and water pumps, sump, heads, etc, etc. |
id like to see id that MD195 makes 400/400 easy, mine certainly was nowhere near....and would never have been.
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id be interested to see if you can make the 195 make much power above 5000 as thats where our problems occurred, the physical turbo seemed too smallf or the 2.5, much better suited to a higher revving and cammed sti 2.0 than mine. Id be interested to see yoru results....
i think from memory the torque was fairly good in the midrange around 375lbft @ 1.45bar but after about 5k as i said it dropped off fairly sharply and was making around 220 @ 7k. |
Where did everybody go
been been busy working all week so not popped in for a while.
As funds are limited looks like this is forcing me to go the DIY route, it will be a sharp learning curve :eek: I'm looking at somewhere at the moment to at least store the car or at the very best somewhere to be able to work on it in the dry with some light and eclectricity, but no luck yet :( .. saw somone had put an ad in our local paper for garage/ workshop to restore classic car, so may try the same. I really need to start a thread in the projects I guess for this if I decide to go with the 2.5 project in the new year, but a quick question is can anyone recommend a place to get the heads machined as required for the 2.5, I have the sti5 heads as standard. Cheers :thumb: |
The 2.5 blocks are quite strong. I have a GT30R on mine which maxed out when the wastegate jammed. It pushed 3 bar of boost into the engine. And all it did was bend a PAR con rod and do the stem seals;)
mine is running at 459.5Bhp and 515lb/ft At the min until the map is tweaked |
Originally Posted by *smiles*
been been busy working all week so not popped in for a while.
As funds are limited looks like this is forcing me to go the DIY route, it will be a sharp learning curve :eek: I'm looking at somewhere at the moment to at least store the car or at the very best somewhere to be able to work on it in the dry with some light and eclectricity, but no luck yet :( .. saw somone had put an ad in our local paper for garage/ workshop to restore classic car, so may try the same. I really need to start a thread in the projects I guess for this if I decide to go with the 2.5 project in the new year, but a quick question is can anyone recommend a place to get the heads machined as required for the 2.5, I have the sti5 heads as standard. Cheers :thumb: |
id also be interested in that terry as that is what ill be doing next.
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What machining work is required for the heads on the 2.5?
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Andrew, Cord did mine, its to get the chamber in the ehads better suited to that of the 2.5 bore.
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No-one yet tested the new 2.5 heads, no?
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
Andrew, Cord did mine, its to get the chamber in the ehads better suited to that of the 2.5 bore.
I remain unconvinced about the effectiveness of combustion chamber work on a 2.5 build. Andrew... |
True, mine was done at the same time as them being ported, and the valvetrain being altered, so i cant say what affect it had.
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I have talked to a lot of people about 2.5s and there seems to be no clear evidence that actual head work makes a great deal of difference in comparison to cam profile, cam timing and obviously turbo selection and mapping.
I'm not saying it's not benficial, I just remain unconvinced that the money could not be better spent elsewhere. Andrew... |
Originally Posted by DaveBlueRA
The 2.5 blocks are quite strong. I have a GT30R on mine which maxed out when the wastegate jammed. It pushed 3 bar of boost into the engine. And all it did was bend a PAR con rod and do the stem seals;)
mine is running at 459.5Bhp and 515lb/ft At the min until the map is tweaked |
As i haven't had back to back testing, all i can say on the porting of the heads, is the car is much more lively when blipping the throttle.
The best way i can describe it, is revving more like a motorbike. Maybe i'm talking pish though. :D |
Was anything else changed at the same time as the ported heads were fitted?
Andrew... |
Feck knows Andrew. John might be able to shed some light on it though, as it was done when he had the car.
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Originally Posted by swisstonihasher
Nice to know the 2.5 blocks are stronger than initial thoughts with the engineering/looks of the semi closed deck with thin liners - makes me a happy chappy!:D
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Alan, am i right in thinking youre running with a MD321T now?
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Originally Posted by doug2507
Alan, am i right in thinking youre running with a MD321T now?
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