Homemade! Tada!

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psysu46nn8.jpg

I ran std ej257 from USA with v3 sti heads on my sti ra on AF 20g. Car made 400 and this was on v5 type r dccd gearbox. it was fun to drive. Ran this set-up for over 3 years and then decided to upgrade to 2.33. Not all 2.5 are bad, it all depends on how you take care of them. i did oil changes every 3k miles with fresh plugs.

Cool but how do you select reverse?
Is this tried and tested and does it make the throw much longer?

Been there a few times. The 'upgrade' always left me cold. Last one, I told my mrs to.. "never let me buy an Evo again"

It always seems like a good idea, even on the way home. Then the novelty wears off.

Tidgy,
That graph is my standard 2ltr... Not JF's 2.1ltr. :D It's a pretty good setup as you can see. ;)

Johns torque graph is even better, both in ramp rate lowdown and overall torque level.

Personally I don't think a road going scoob needs 400 plus hp
Simply not usable unless long straights etc

1 rolling rd it see where your at
Use a well regarded specialist ( Subaru )
2 that's a great rd car to start with so buy quality replacement parts.
3 how do you drive ? Maybe a driver day tuition in your car ?
Arb depends on driving style I like lift off oversteer so set the rears on the last hole as helps getting the ass out = fun
Good suspension and brakes always helps but what's on isn't bad just replace the chocalate bits like drop links etc anti lift I highly rated

I disagree it is useable but you need the whole package, top quality brakes and full handling package/suspension, but more importantly the skill to take advantage of the full package, all well and good spending a fortune on mods but if you can't drive for toffee you'll get your ass handed to you by someone in a sub 300bhp car on all but the longest of straights.;)

edit to add, I see we agree. note to self; must type faster. :lol1:

SC42/MDX321T, FMIC etc. and away you go, forget all this talk of rebuilding; if it isn't broken don't fix it! I've personally run up to 510/440 on a UK 2.0 STI engine for a few years now. :D

Isn't a lot of this subjective though. If you were building a good road car would you start with a newage? Engine and Gearbox yes but why not save a few £££ and 300kg by using a classic chassis.
My 2.1 is ballistic on a TD04, it spools ridiculously low but is only putting out 288BHP at present, would a TD05 20G ruin the grin factor?. 288BHP in a newage I'd imagine would be pretty dreadful.

Kwik my advice would be something like a vf 34 or sc 36 as a modern equivalent, my type r running a measly 330bhp was a serious road weapon. I'm considering a billet td04 on my blob for the same reasons, spool and mid range, even thinking about putting the type r box in there as an experiment.:D

I'll probably be shot but I have read a few people, Enginetuner included, saying the DCCD 5 speed is a good box and can handle a fair bit of power. If it goes wrong, then that's another story but for now I'll see what it can take. If I was chasing figures I'd just go for a rotated set up so standard position turbo's are a must for me and the 05 should help me hit the 400BHP target.
The intention is to have the 2 maps, 400BHP and around 320-330BHP. I doubt the 400 map would ever get used, unless I get annoyed at some spanner and have time to turn the ignition off, switch the maps and start the car again which I can't imagine will be often lol.

Obviously I'm talking about speccing my car up to be a rounded versatile vehicle as opposed to a numbers chasing exercise or a stance wagon. NOT a hypothetical discussion as to what chassis would be best.

I considered putting a Type R gearbox in my Legacy. I wonder how the DCCD would cooperate with the Newage ECU etc.
Will it physically bolt up to everything else that's there? It's an interesting idea! They're not mega bucks.

I select reverse same as before mate. Lift the collar up. You just don't put your thumb on the top of the gear knob you just lift your wrist up.

It does make the throw longer but it eliminates any notchiness and any increase in shift time added by the throw increase is negated by the fact that the you're moving your hand less so the total shift time is shorter or at least the same. I love it. But then again I have the steering wheel spaced right back too.

Ditch
You say you disagree then next paragraph say exactly what I said???
I have had the full package on a 2 litre it isn't usable on the road.
The people selling you the turbo will advice you this etc
You want in a road car low mid punch high hp turbos are good but after 3500rpm
Don't get me wrong 380hp -460hp is great laugh but you have to pick your moments especially with how busy the roads are ....
I'd aim for amazing handling, weight reduction , amazing brakes and spool.
I was toying with the idea of fm turbo set up but never saw the end results of tests .

James your welcome to have a quick blast of my car before it goes in for a 2.5
It's running 450/400 at the minute ;)

:lol1: yes mate we were typing at the same time.:thumb:

I wouldn't go that far on a car that was just for the road, hence why I have a wrx wagon with PPP, more than enough for road use in reality low down grunt and quick spool and very useable in the real world. I also have a Type r which will be getting the full treatment but will be keeping it sub 400bhp and it will see some track and sprint action, and as above it was more than enough at 330bhp as a road car.

One point that does interest me is how often the guys that have had big power seem to go back to 350/400 as opposed to 5/600.

Next time there's a meet I might have to pop over and let you take me out in it mate! Might end up buying half your setup haha

Been pondering this one myself, currently running with 343bhp but soon upgrading to 400 once I've sorted the suspension and brakes. I think that will be plenty fast for me! I would love to get into rallying but doubt I could afford the expense in time and financially :-(

Yep
I guess were all on about a hooligans rd car

I love mine, and id say it would run ring around my type r... As for against the RS, its tough to compare as theyre both good at different things... I think at highspeeds though the rs felt alot more planted and stable....

Right then, we're a few months on, and some modifications have been done.
Also the brief has been changed a little as Ive started doing track days. So I'd say its a sensible 'fast road/track' car, with no bias towards power or handling or stiffness etc.


The updated lists from the first post are as follows:


Current mods:
HSD Monopro Coilovers,
New Bridgestone RE070 tyres,
Remap & supporting mods (without decat) to approx 330bhp
Bits inside to make it more to my taste (i.e. steering wheel spacer & gearstick extension)
AS Performance solid shift bushes.


Planned Mods:
Brake ducts (DIY)
Better pads
Better brake fluid
Uprated ARBs (recommended sizes?)
Braces (probably front strut brace, H brace & rear V Brace)
Better air freshener.

Possibly a rear cage & bucket seat, but they will be done because I want them, rather than any gains. More because I like daft mods.


Can anyone think of any pointers/recommendations/additions to the above list?

Baffled sump or plate
Spec C anti surge fuel assembly

Really? Even just with Re070s? Thought I'd need slicks to request them.

buy a wrx

I get fuel surge on r888s with as much as 40% fuel still in the tank so I've got a spec c assembly going in this week.

Can't say I've ever had oil surge... but that's an expensive risk spiv I've had an RCM plate in since I started doing track days.

360bhp hawk spec C perfect for road :)

lol

Built 2.5 in classic RA , sc46 with a close ratio spec C 6speed :)

Seriously tho, if i were doing it again, I would just buy a spec c map it for safety and use that. Standard exhaust the lot!

Seriously considering going twinscroll next year.
What does the spec c fuel system consist of?