Thanks guys, I'm thinking of using a standard new age 2L STI block with Cosworth head gaskets ARP head studs my V3 STI heads & my RCM oil pump & baffle plate. I reckon I can build it for under £1500. With my RCM 400 it shuld make mid 400s on 20%Meth after proper mapping. If it lasted 12000miles it would be the best value most reliable use I'd had out of the car since upping the power.

I ran my 2.0 JDM standard engine at 380bhp and it felt fantastic and the bottom end is currently for sale complete with oil pump and water pump for £950 collected. If I ever have another newage it will be a JDM for sure.

Hi Jay.
Cars not even seen the track,only just got it ready. It was never built on the cheap & had a load of decent parts put in it Inc Mahle pistons, Manley rods & brand new v7 crank with moded thrust for the CDB.
I had plans for 3 track days this year which Iv now canceled. The first builder turned out to be a total cowboy & Iv recently heard other horror stories about him. My present builder is highly reputable & I know others who've had great results on road & track, he has not washed his hands of this, but he is busy & not local to me so I'm waiting for him to look at it. I'm just trying to put a back up plan together incase things don't go my way.

Brand new short motor from import car parts is £1400-1500

Is that a new age STI bottom end? sounds too cheap.

Ye Newage STi

Richard J you have PM

Rich I feel your pain! I had my evo built by a company twice first time spun the shells second time had head lift its ****e how they get away with such failures when you spend good money with them and they don't stand by there work!
That does sound a really good option but what makes the 2001 onwards bottom end stronger? And does it have be a sti or any import?
Hope all goes well for you

link/info please ;)

cheers

The New age bottom ends use better parts & can take more power. My issue is not down to the engine build, but a fault on the car which has caused det & damaged my engine, pretty gutting really.

Hi Rich, bad news with ur engines mate!

When u say there was a problem with the car causing det, would the tuner/mapper not pick such issues up?

Im going same option as you and keeping to the standard bottom end for now, should i come accross problems then i would then be going for 2.1 stroker forged block for piece of mind, but if it runs at the 450 marker which is what i want as its a Road car not for track then i will be sticking with it (unless i get bored and want to up the power again lol) :thumb:

Car is an 03/53 blob sti

Seems to becoming more of a common upgrade this for the classic owners,I've pretty much finished mine now (54 sti short motor/v3 sti heads)and looking forward to getting it back in the car(v3 sti)hoping for 500+ and if it lasts I'll be happy if not its cheap enough to replace it and wind back the wick a bit :)

Tim

^^ thas a nice number and what my long term goal would be, dun think id have total faith in a 500+ standard motor lol, i know a few have done it and they have run and fair enough they're easy enough to come by but its the hassle that puts me off if it does decide to spit a rod or spin a bearing (may be i need to stop being a girl lol), look forward to seeing ur results :) keep us posted :thumb:

yes, I don't know what's happened & why nothing was spotted on mapping. Perhaps I got a tank of dodgy fuel, but I don't understand why the Simtec CEL never flashed to warn of det.

Im currently on a STI8 motor, running 400 ish, had a conversation today regarding running 321T to over 450 on the same standard block, and it all seems acceptable in the Subaru community that a STI motor will do justice. I may have sourced a T already lol

JDM Blob sti short motor in mine with sti 5/6 standard heads running 505/456 and pat herborn who mapped it said it was a superb engine that took timing like no other and never complained no matter what he did with it,he said if i had fitted the sc46 instead of the sc42 it would have taken it to the mid 500`s no problem.A great mod for a classic fast road or semi track car but i wouldnt recomend if going for a purely track based motor,you need to go forged.:thumb:

Here Richard, a good topic for you ;)

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...ourselves.html

Rob

Just thought I'd update this. My engine builder looked at it today & it turns out the engine is fine showing less than 8% leakage on each cylinder. What I'd thought was det on my camera was intact a shadow & can't be seen now & there is no oil on the piston, so it must have been some unburnt fuel.
Very pleased the engine is fine, but it may have a problem with the turbo, however we have changed the catch tank set up as the way it vented may have effected this.
Glad I started this thread though as it gives a seriously viable option for those wanting to up the power without shelling out on a forged build.