No one is spitting out the dummy pal, just letting the scnet com of what i have been informed of by rcm and ggr. So real your neck in DD. Jeez after this reply im as tetchy as you, you bitch:lol1:




















Good luck with the new build, you narky cow;)

mobil also do synt s 10w-40

Mercedes use that in my wifes car when its serviced and it is well reccod as a semi syn.

Did RCM and GGR actually say to use mobil 15w/50 or did you ask them if it'd be ok and they said it would be fine?

Just interested really as I hardly hear mobil 15w/50 banded around these days and iirc when I first used to come on scoobynet it was quite comon to see it recommended.

Let's be honest, any decent semi or fully synth. will do for a hard pushed road car, those up above 450 bhp or with a full on TA car may be needing to be a bit more choosy....

imho

dunx

It would appear that you're another keyboard hero I see :rolleyes:

Personally sunshine I don't give a toss what you put in your car or what you waste your money on. All I was doing was to try and save YOU some cash by reflecting on my own experience. As said I've used this stuff for years most recently on a 450bhp 2.5 for over 30,000 miles. When I took it apart prior to selling it you'd have been hard pushed to tell the bearings from new ones.

You can turn this on its arse and say what you want. You had the snotty attitude and got the bag on because you got differing opinions. Get over over it you clown. You asked for people's opinions and you got them.

I have no idea what you got so arsey about it. It wasnt as if anyone was saying go and buy some 20/50 mineral oil from asda for £6 for 5 litres.

No crawl off back to your hole you sniveling gob****e ;)

Thanks for all your positive input DD. Throw around as many insults as you like if it makes you feel good, its funny how your insulting posts are late at night. Just in from the pub, eh pal. Shandy makes a real hero out of you. I'm leaving it at that, cant be dealing with p155 heads.

LOL @ piss head.

Couldn't be further from the truth. Was in the garage working on the car till gone midnight as my project thread clearly shows.

Nice try though ;)

Millers cfs 10/60 used here..

i have just used this.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...a/DSCF3276.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...a/DSCF3278.jpg


(got a few in my garage as a friend works for a VW main dealers and its what they use in all there stuff)

its a 10/40 synthetic but i have a bit of a rattle when cold (probably a bit of piston slap due to the milage so may up it to 10/60 possibly)

any ideas?

It's got API and ACEA approval it will be fine.

Even Mobil 1 15/50 or millers 10/60 wont stop the noise from piston slap from worn pistons on a cold start.

thats sort of what i was thinking. its not that bad but i know its there, just from cold so i just take it easy til im up to temp.

good to know my oils ok (sort of got a never ending supply:thumb:)

Millsy

hhhm i was gonna try a 15w50 to mask my pistonslap.....im thinking it wil be a waste of money now

thats what i was thinking. i may have a word with my mate and see if they have a 15/50 or 10/60. if i can get some for free ill changeit and let you know if it makes a difference.

Millsy

ok cheers, treated her to some new plugs today too and she runs smoother from cold now.

I may be wrong here, but surely 15w50 would have the opposite effect since it will be lubricating the engine less on start-up than say 5w40? :Suspiciou

For me, RCM just put it in mine anyway. Silkolene Pro R 15w-50. Not as high bhp as others but still modified. I have had my car elsewhere and they too used the same spec oil, although another make.

Its a bit tricky to figure this. The theory goes is that a thicker oil will cling to the bore surfaces longer after engine shut down, and when it thickens out when its cold, it provides a cushion to damp down the noise when the piston hits the bore at the top/bottom of its stoke. However some counter theory goes that a thinner oil will permeate into the cross hatchings of the cylinder bores and avoid being wiped away by the piston rings. Unless the cylinder bore is worn or glazed so there are no hatchings to retain oil regardless of weight (this is partly why you hone bores), and this maybe possibly part of the problem on some engines. Bore wash from excess fueling (i.e such as excessive idling when cold) would be an added factor.

Another consideration is how the bores are lubricated. Certain specs of engine will have piston cooling oil jets, these naturally also double up as lubricating the bores. But even cars with these oil jets should get bore lubrication within a few seconds of the engine firing up. Yet some are still right old slappers (probably due to forged pistons..but hey, it still slaps).

Personally I've had no success going either way with oils. Not just with Subarus, other engine that display piston slap when cold. Just on Subarus its seems to be more noticable and complained about "alot" more, although I do consider it to be a very mechanically noisey engine when compared to, say, a BMW M54 engine, which makes very little general mechanical noise in comparison.

Mind, having said that, if you want to hear real piston slap...you should hear a standard GM LS2 engine on a cold winters day (late monaro/vxr8/corvette engine), its almost embarrasing. :0 Although I've heard worse Rovers (k-series) and yet the owners don't notice it at all :cuckoo:

well said^

Ali-B - Interesting read. So you're basically saying there are two opposite theories about the benefit an oil's cold viscosity has on start-up, but neither make much difference? Lol

It also depends on the type of oil. Mineral oils absorb sound better than synthetics, so they can appear to reduce the slap, but aren't as good, especially in forged engines. Ester based oils cling to the inside of the engine, like Magnatec claimed to do in those TV ads, but top quality ones like Silkolene Pro S, Motul 300V and Redline contain a significant portion of ester to make it actually work. If you then used a 5w-40, it would flow quickly as well, so you get the best protection available. A 10w-50 is a good compromise if you need a thicker oil as you still get better preotection than a 15w. Ester based oils are also better at cushioning than a normal synthetic, so they can be good for piston slap.

5w-40, 5w-40 oil, 5w40, 5w/40
Silkolene Pro S 10W-50 Ester Synthetic Oil

Cheers

Tim