Yeah I've heard he's a busy man.
From what I've heard it will be money well spent, I still
Have a few odds and sods to do to the car so a short wait won't hurt, it's running well enough just now 👍🚙🔥🔥🔥

Won't go wrong with andy.
Money well spent in my eyes.
Glad the car is going well

Thanks Ciaran, looking at August before he can book me in, all though I have asked to be considered for a cancellation.
Be a fair jolly all the way down and back, but a good day all the same.
On the subject of the remap, what are my options if any?
Can I ask for anything specific, or will Andy just do what he sees fit?

depending on the year of your ECU you might get some options, the 2004 on drive by wire ECU's can run racerom (per gear boost targets, map switch, per gear rev limits, flex fuel, auto blip, adjustable launch control, flat foot shift, speed density) but the older ones I think it's just map switching unless he's doing carberry speed density roms (then you'll get flat foot shift, antilag, launch control, twin maps and speed density).

It's got a throttle cable! 2003 ecu.
Is it map switching or just hi-low boost control? Map switching would suggest two differnt maps for the likes of tow fuels.
I want all the boost in every gear, again the boost is limited by the factory map sensor? 255kpa map sensor in there? Factor in a boost cut threshold of .1 bar, max boost be 1.45 bar?
It's a fairly basic remap I'm
Getting, just want it tuned well for my mods, 20g, 565, 3" system, TGV deletes, silicon boost and inlet, sti top mount, panel filter in std airbox.
Andy recons between 370-400 hp, although with my std manifolds I would personally think 360-370 would be where it's at?

I would've thought a fuel regulator needed as well to get to the 370 mark but if you have access to super super unleaded then it could be a different story. As I've only worked with 98 super over this side of the water you'll get more from the car than I could. For the ECUtek map switching I think it's just two boost tables switching between what would normally be the auto and manual target boost tables.

For poor fuel compensation you could just let the IAM drop the same way the factory map does when it hears something nasty, I normally like to map the car for the fuel it gets rather than the bestest super in town that may not always be available. It's not unusual to tweak the knock correction values so they aren't as aggressive in trying to add more timing when the fuel doesn't permit it.

The standard MAP sensor is indeed 2.5 bar so depending on your local atmospheric pressure around 1.5-1.6 bar is usable with a tiny bit of room for fuel cut to still be used in overboost situations (see JGM's post here: https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...l )

Good info thanks, at std fuel pressure I would expect 300hp with 380cc, 350 with 440's and near 400 with 565's. All on Shell V power.
By different fuels I mean %methanol mix, so fuel map switching. Not possible as you say it's only switchable boost control.
I will just ask for a good V power map, I'm sure Andy will perform!
I'll have a look t your link, thanks

aye map switching and flex fuel like that you can do on the old ECU's with the carberry rom - not sure if there's an ECUtek method of it though but I'm sure Andy will have you sorted right :)

Another question I have is will my car be ok without a neutral position switch? Is it needed for power/remap? I don't have have one

If it was an sti you would have issues with avcs not working, might give you some grief with fuelling between gears but should be possible to map out the odd bits and make do.

Good to hear, now you mention it, it's always sti's I have read problems with

Yes if you dont have the NPS it will cause you grief if you want flat foot shifting, ALS, LC etc...

None of mine work on my Alcatek with the NPS not plugged in

Cool, I'm not wanting (or getting) LC, ALS, Flat Foot, so will be ok with no NPS on my factory ecu? Seems to go ok just now?

It wouldn't be hard to make something up so that it's closed circuit in neutral, at the moment it thinks it's in gear all the time (is it a problem for power?)
Was wanting to speak with Andy about it on the phone but couldn't get hold of him. Emails can be a bit long winded and can get miss interpreted sometimes (especially with my writing skills).

Date is booked with Andy 👍 eight week wait though.
Anything I should do before the car goes? Is a three port bcs a
Worthwhile upgrade? If so why?
I have so far got:
Panel filter
Silicon inlet hose
20g turbo
Silicon y pipe
Sti top mount
TGV delete and port of runners
565's
Std manifolds
3" system to 2.5" rear silencer.
Obviously turn up with plenty of good fuel, oil and coolant levels spot on. Just fitted a Walbro yesterday (good job too as the original pump was still on there!)
Brand new denso lambda fitted last week too.
Rear lambda is gone, this gets mapped out?

on a 20g i'd be looking for the 3port to try and assist with spool up and help you reach the higher targets needed to make use of it.

Rear o2 can be totally mapped out so yeh no need for it unless you want a placeholder when your wideband isn't hooked up :)


Still think a fuel regulator might be worthwhile though - just incase your turbo is wanting that little bit more up top - even recommended by Andy on his website:
http://andyforrestperformance.co.uk/58901.html

Level 3 360-390 bhp

Full Decat turbo back 3” bore exhaust system
Tubular exhaust headers and flow matched uppipe
Walbro 255 l/hr uprated fuel pump
K+N panel filter
EcuTek custom ECU calibration.
Twin boost set up for high/low power switchable in-car
550cc Multi Spray Injectors
Fuel Lab turbo specification fuel pressure regulator with fitting kit & gauge
STI TMIC from 01-06 STI including undertray
AFP 05-20G custom ported turbocharger modified to fit with TGV
NGK PFR 7B uprated spark plugs

they aren't mad expensive these days and by what you've done so far you'll have it fitted inbetween your morning coffee break!

I'll look into an adjustable fuel pressure reg, doubt it will make much more than 360-370 hp though?!
I have a set of 630 cc injectors fr sale just now, just feel the genuine impreza 565's will be better, cold start, fuel economy etc.

yeh I'd say your spot on with the hp estimate there - the 565's with a teeny tiny bump in fuel pressure will see you right :)

I'd go with a 3 port, allows finer boost control. I'm running one from a Classic on mine. Was only £25 I think.

Andy wrote back saying he can map it with the standard 2 port no probs. didn't seem to think it was a problem?
Waiting to hear back his views on my fueling situation.
I have a small list of bits to do to the car before it goes, biggest thing is make and fit the full 3" system with modified prodrive back box (internally modified)
Then just BS items like plugs, clean air filter etc.
Looking forward to having it mapped! 👍😬

Worth getting a 3 port boost control solenoid. They came as standard on early STI's and can be had for buttons. Far better boost control there is a good reason people upgrade to them.

Here is one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Denso-OEM-...item234aaf66ce

£45 though ciaran for a foosty old one? You can buy a brand new one for £38 delivered.
On another note, cracking result for Andy today

The one in the ebay link is what I've got on mine. Although I picked mine up for £25. Not really a lot to go wrong with them. Spray it out with brake cleaner whilst activating it and they're good as new.

Looking at a brand new pirberg one for a VXR, £25 delivered.

that's not bad at all, you have a link for it or is it a private sale? I've a classic 3 port on mine as well, think it was 20-25 quid something like that.

Whilst you can do it with the 2port and it will work just fine, with the 3port you'll get spool a little earlier as the 3port can block any pressure from getting to the wastegate whereas a 2port is only ever bleeding off pressure but there is always some getting through.

I remember Simon R.I.P , mentioning this to me about better Spool on a 3 port to me , the 2 port is possible , I still have mine on his tune but its rather a dumb piece of kit , but the spool up was hugely improved just with a uprated waste gate spring on 16G . On a 20g I think the 3 port and a Kinguwa Waste gate that you can tune for with different spring rates (try 0,8 or 1,0 bar ) will bring a definate improvement for your Spool.

I suppose the other way of looking at it is a tiny amount of wastegate creep as the turbo comes in boost will help towards combating any compressor surge by keeping the wheel speed down below the surge limit?
I'm all for using a 3 port, but at the moment my 20g is making 1.3 bar by 3500 on the two port.
I will double check this on the way home, but it's certainly not too laggy. No sign of any surge either?

I understand what your saying, three port is very much like a Dawes device in it's closed state, but with the option of control.
The three port is just on eBay.
It has a bosch two pin plug connector on it, so you would have to change the denso plug for a bosch one.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=181711190089

Plug? Mine is connected via a choc box :D

that's class value for a brand spanking new one! If you had a 2.5 I'd be worried about surge but not on the 2.0. As you say it's like an old dawes device totally blocks it but then when you get going the ECU can taper and control it. Might only be worth 200rpm but why not have all you can have? My classic one I chopped the loom off and used spade connectors :D