We'll agree to disagree on that one then ;)

Your welcome to come show me the ropes with tuning Opensource? Maybe that would change my mind, I'm in the north of Scotland.
Here's the ecu;
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psqfy1senu.jpg

Top feed injector. ;)

Loads of info available on Romraider forums or bring it here and I'll tune it for you ;)

We offer SD mapping of the stock ecu inc ALS, launch control, switchable mapping and flat shifting.

Should it no be end feed injector lol? Or is that efi, electronic fuel injection! Hmm

I bet once you've mapped one subaru ecu it's pretty easy to get the others close, air flow is air flow through the maf, fueling with always be similar. That's why you never had to tune the fuel on an rs turbo with k jet.
Whoever mapped my car just shafted the map higher up the airflow to make it stinking rich, so people like me couldn't run a bigger turbo and more boost.
I have done launch control, map switching and flat shift, all with MS.
Launch control is good, flat shift wasn't so good, map switching handy for fuel variations etc

The SD mapping is mafless ;)

As should be all ecu's! Lol

Checked my valve clearances, ones a bit tight, popped the shim out of it without removing the cams etc, I'll give it a haircut on the surface grinder the morn.
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psy2ezksf7.jpg

Seen someone bodge the shims of a rover engine on a bench grinder once, didn't end well lol.

I see, good job that's
Not what I'm doing!

I know, just saying since you mentioned shims

On the likes of the xud and 1.7 Isuzu engine you could grind them on a bench grinder as they sat on the valves and not the camshaft, obviously you need to pay attention! Lots of these engines refused to start due to tight valve clearances, slacker the better!

I actually rebuilt the top end of a XUD a short while back. My mate left it somewhere for a headgasket and they made a complete balls of it, charged him for skimming the head, new gasket and so on but when I stripped it the head was in a terrible state and the gasket was used/corroded. It lasted for about a week. I actually enjoyed building it apart from breaking one of only two M7 bolts and having trouble sourcing one quickly. Some gangsters about!

M7 would quickly turn into m8 lol!
I broke one of the m6 bolts on my camshaft caps, drilled it out and made a right mess. Ended up drilling and tapping it m10 and locktighted an m10 insert in that I drilled and tapped m6 in the lathe. I was quite happy with the repair actually! Better than it was to start with.
On another note after removing the AEM piggyback last week my car is back to being stinking rich in boost. 10:1 displayed (flicks 10.2/10.0)
So I've just tossed 5l of methanol in there (10%) to see if that leans it off lol

Engine is in and running, took old one out, swapped ancillaries and put back in with new flywheel and six puk clutch all on Saturday! Will run it for a week and do oil change.

Pics?

Just looks the same as the old one! Except I've removed the aircon now.

Nice to hear you have the engine in :thumb:

I am about to swap the short block on mine , Is anything particular to be careful about on the head swap / need any special tools ?

I intend using the old bolts , 2 stage torqued then with 2 extra qtr turns

What did you do ?

Make sure they are clean, I used the old bolts again, they looked quite fresh. I torqued mine up to 30? 75?(whatever it's supposed to be) Then 90* on all and then 90* on the two inner bolts and 45* on the outers, felt tight enough to me.
The biggest problem you will have is the cam pulley bolts! They are hellish tight.
Don't use the torque wrench on the cam cap bolts, they tend to snap easily, best do them by "feel".
Not a bad job by any means. Just keep it clean. Cam belt is easy with the engine on the stand. Make sure you torque the flywheel bolts to 75/80 nm.
Crank pulley can come slack too if not tightened up FT.
Oh also check your valve clearances, I had one tight exhaust valve (.002") the rest were 6-8 thou and seem to be fine at that.

Over 100 miles done now first oil and filter change done last night.

Good news :)

Nice, got 8k on mine now! :o

Be ready for a rebuild again scotty! 😂

Seems ok so far, other than the constant sodding niggles lol.

Any updates on this mate?

Regards,

Subaru Collector 555.

Yeah, 5000 ish miles on the gearbox conversion, 975 miles on the new engine. Currently in the process of putting on the MS, I have fitted an extra coolant temp sensor in the coolant pipes for the heated throttle body, also installed an air temp sensor in te airbox, put a 36-2-2-2 trigger wheel off a mazda rx8 on te crank pulley and mounted a VR sensor there too, I have briefly ran the coilpacks (not fuel yet as that will defiantly work) car ran well, but then refused to start next day, bit of head scratching, looks like maybe false trigger as my VR sensor is very close to bottom pulley, will investigate later on.
Once I sort my rpm niggles I'm going to fit TGV deletes and bigger injectors, then swap over to completely standalone on the MS.
I have a very accurate timing map that I've robbed from my car, will be a good base to start with.
On another note I ran the car at my local dragstrip, good news is it never broke, a coupe 1.8 second 60ft's. Running a soggy tune of 10.8:1 and low boost of only 1.2 bar I managed a 13.5 second quarter, which is bang on for the state of tune just now.
Shakedown complete, it's time for a bigger turbo and more boost! On target for dipping into the 12's this year.

Tell a lie, it did break, first run I snapped the gear knob off on the first gear change! All future runs were ran with just the stick, very uncomfortable! Still I made this gear knob and fitted it on the Monday, also shortened the stick by about an inch.
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...pszulkfafy.jpg

VR sensor mount I machined to fit subaru sensor in
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf8z0nthd.jpg

VR sensor mounted along with mazda trigger wheel
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...pslxwy5da7.jpg