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BMW 125d M Series...any problems?

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Old 12 January 2018, 02:16 PM
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alcazar
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Default BMW 125d M Series...any problems?

Youngest looking at one to replace an ageing Megane R26R, mostly because he does 400+pw to and from work at 25/28 mpg in the Meg.

Anyone know of any problems with the Beemer? Apart from it not having indicators, of course?
Old 12 January 2018, 06:37 PM
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die- sel ?
Old 12 January 2018, 07:03 PM
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Get a different job? Move? Earn more?

In all seriousness, just buy a much cheaper car and not worry about fuel costs. 125D Ms seem to start at £13k.
Old 12 January 2018, 08:14 PM
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Timing chain can fail on engines that have not had the oil changed and/or used wrong/cheap oil. Chain normally good for over 150k+ if cared for 80k or less at worst. Listen for a thrashing/whirring noise front the passenger side to the rear of the front wheel at 2000ish rpm (usually more noticeable with bonnet shut)...it's an early indicator. Freak early failures can also happen, but a careful ear will hear it before any damage is done.

Gearbox can suffer selection issues (loss of gear or no reverse) not cheap to fix. Possibly caused by driving style (city car, drivers who are heavy handed/rough with the gear shifter).

Clutch/dual mass/clutch pedal bushes wear on city-driven cars (100k+) again city cars.

Banner batteries fitted as OEM fail early (BMW batteries used to last ten years, these would be lucky to last five years).

Start/stop system will stop working for a plethora of reasons (called "switch-off inhibitors" ). Usually the battery (as above), or neutral position switch (top of gearbox - need to drop the 'box to access it).

Usual front suspension front arms bush wear. Usual BMW.

Being stranded at the side of the motorway with a shredded tyre because you don't have run flats and no spare (went past one today on the M69...oops) Runflats do ruin the ride but trust me...you can drive until they have worn through the carcass and the car is still driveable (impressively so).

And keep your nails trimmed..they wear the black off the radio/climate buttons...as do abrasive/solvent based cleaners and hand moisturisers.

That's about it. Still a billion times better than a Megane

Last edited by ALi-B; 12 January 2018 at 08:31 PM.
Old 13 January 2018, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TECHNOPUG
Get a different job? Move? Earn more?

In all seriousness, just buy a much cheaper car and not worry about fuel costs. 125D Ms seem to start at £13k.

You southerners really have ZERO idea of the job situation in the north, do you?

The point being that the Meg is fuel dear and appraoching 120k, so may become unrelaible. since he's on 12 hour shifts, pretty difficult to get to work without a car?

And the post asked for advice about a particular car, not his life choices
Old 13 January 2018, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ALi-B
Timing chain can fail on engines that have not had the oil changed and/or used wrong/cheap oil. Chain normally good for over 150k+ if cared for 80k or less at worst. Listen for a thrashing/whirring noise front the passenger side to the rear of the front wheel at 2000ish rpm (usually more noticeable with bonnet shut)...it's an early indicator. Freak early failures can also happen, but a careful ear will hear it before any damage is done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oWrj...e_gdata_player

Gearbox can suffer selection issues (loss of gear or no reverse) not cheap to fix. Possibly caused by driving style (city car, drivers who are heavy handed/rough with the gear shifter).

Clutch/dual mass/clutch pedal bushes wear on city-driven cars (100k+) again city cars.

Banner batteries fitted as OEM fail early (BMW batteries used to last ten years, these would be lucky to last five years).

Start/stop system will stop working for a plethora of reasons (called "switch-off inhibitors" ). Usually the battery (as above), or neutral position switch (top of gearbox - need to drop the 'box to access it).

Usual front suspension front arms bush wear. Usual BMW.

Being stranded at the side of the motorway with a shredded tyre because you don't have run flats and no spare (went past one today on the M69...oops) Runflats do ruin the ride but trust me...you can drive until they have worn through the carcass and the car is still driveable (impressively so).

And keep your nails trimmed..they wear the black off the radio/climate buttons...as do abrasive/solvent based cleaners and hand moisturisers.

That's about it. Still a billion times better than a Megane
Thanks for that.
Old 13 January 2018, 11:39 AM
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I had one and loved it , I got rid because it's too small for me ie:6 foot and because its a woman car
Old 13 January 2018, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by alcazar
Youngest looking at one to replace an ageing Megane R26R, mostly because he does 400+pw to and from work at 25/28 mpg in the Meg.

Anyone know of any problems with the Beemer? Apart from it not having indicators, of course?
Has it got 2 seats and rear cage from factory?
Old 13 January 2018, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobydooooo
I had one and loved it , I got rid because it's too small for me ie:6 foot and because its a woman car
like a lot modern hatches , the boot opening is a joke

check that sports ford that opens sideways !
Old 13 January 2018, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs
Has it got 2 seats and rear cage from factory?
Not afaik?

Maybe not the R26R then, just an R26? It is that though as it has the LSD. Plus he put better exhaust and a set of Eibachs on it too. Has the half leather Recaros.
Old 13 January 2018, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by alcazar
Not afaik?

Maybe not the R26R then, just an R26? It is that though as it has the LSD. Plus he put better exhaust and a set of Eibachs on it too. Has the half leather Recaros.
No then, the r26 and r26R is a massive difference. The R has 2 seats and cage from factory and are pretty rare.
Old 13 January 2018, 06:11 PM
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It's the former, then.

It is badged Renault Sport Megane f1.
Old 13 January 2018, 07:43 PM
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R26
Old 13 January 2018, 11:45 PM
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presume 125d is just a normal 1 series with nice wheels and M stickers?

Get very lost with what is a real M car with BM. Is it the 135 that is a proper one?lol. I'm out of touch
Old 14 January 2018, 11:32 AM
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I think "M Series" is just a trim, like "S-Line" for Audi.

So better wheels and seats? And...?

No personal interrest in ever having a Beemer, so have done no research.
Old 14 January 2018, 11:55 AM
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Correct, msport is just spec like sline etc, better wheels, interior, suspension etc
Old 14 January 2018, 03:03 PM
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Plus MSport is just the starting point...It was once possible to get a higher spec SE to a MSport like a 550i SE if you decide to tick all the options (our 535d Lux is like this; far far higher in spec than the average MSport).

These days they do limit the minimum and maximum engine options, so you can no longer have a 316 MSport or a 125d SE etc. So IIRC the 125d is only available as MSport...but to confuse things further you can deselect some options like the suspension and have SE springs and shocks on a MSport trim car.

Last edited by ALi-B; 14 January 2018 at 03:05 PM.
Old 15 January 2018, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by alcazar
You southerners really have ZERO idea of the job situation in the north, do you?

The point being that the Meg is fuel dear and appraoching 120k, so may become unrelaible. since he's on 12 hour shifts, pretty difficult to get to work without a car?

And the post asked for advice about a particular car, not his life choices
The shortest commute I've had in the last 3 years has been 620miles. I've worked in Redcar for 18months, then 9 in Newcastle and now I'm in Edinburgh. I was driving 50k a year in a Subaru Impreza. So it may surprise you to learn that us southerners are well aware of the job situations in the entire country, my chippy northern friend

Why mention his lifestyle choices as justification for the car in the first place then?

My point is whether junior has actually worked out the numbers to see how much he would actually be saving? Going from the Megane to the 125d is only going to save £1600 in fuel costs over the course of a year, assuming 20k mileage. Has he factored in VED, insurance, service costs (BMW parts can throw up some interesting prices), 20k a year mileage depreciation (it's going to be £1k per 10k minimum)etc?

If saving money is the primary factor, than buying a car with a substantially lower purchase price is going to save far more money, than a more expensive diesel.
Old 15 January 2018, 05:21 PM
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So you do tetbury to Redcar, or Edinburgh DAILY?

If not, that's not a commute...just saying...

My point being that he needs a reliable car, the Meg is ageing and doesn't do good mpg.

Why would he want a cheap car? He'll end up with something else that ends up unreliable. Trust me...I know...I have TWO Poxalls...

So.....assuming his car choice and lifestyle choices are up to him, do you have ANY worthwhile info to add? Like do you know anything about BMW 125d M series?
Old 25 January 2018, 03:53 PM
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I'd watch out for out of warranty failures. I had two warranty claims on my 330d in a year totalling £3000+ which were covered by a supposedly worthless aftermarket warranty through RAC. Fortunately for me th warranty was only 400 quid.

BMW's are expensive to fix when they do go wrong, negating any savings over a cheaper car IMO.

It's why I don't have say a 320d immer now for work and jsu5t cough up the extra for petrol. I'm on circa 25k a year now in my Swift.
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