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Hi all always wanted one but don't know much about them only reason I bought the scooby
Now I'm seriously thinking of swapping over to one soon so need plenty of pointers and advice etc please thanks
I know it would need to be hse
Not clued up on what year or engine to look for
What Ali says is always sound advice. I guess it depends on your budget and your pockets?
Most are HSE, so lesser specs are rare and not worth any perceived savings you'd be making as you wouldn't be. Otherwise, there's HST and AB (Autobiography). HST slightly sportier looking and the AB all the options and a tad more luxurious. Enginewise, there's the fast petrol versions, even faster supercharged for fun (fast for 2.5 ton+ of metal anyway) OR there are the diesel versions 2.7TDV6, 3.6TDV8 or the post 2010 3.0 TDV6. The TDV8 can go wrong, 2.7 is pretty reliable and the 3.0 is more refined. Bodywise for an HSE, there was an upgrade around 2010 and another 2012. 2010 or later interior is better. Avoid the keyless entry, as they are a thief magnet.
I've had an MY07 TDV6 HSE for over 5 years & 50k miles. Bought it on 90k. It has been pretty reliable and I don't treat my car like a prima donna, it gets used, thrashed, filled up with crap, tows things and sometimes ventures off-road (which it is very good at). It isn't that much more to service that other premium makes via an Indy but the 7 yr/100k miler is a belt change which is not cheap. I've had a few issues all suspension related and those are more expensive than you would get or expect on a less focused car.
Its a big mile eater, really comfortable, totally practical and I love it. I will likely keep it for ages though I would like a new shape RRS as a stablemate.
What Ali says is always sound advice. I guess it depends on your budget and your pockets?
Most are HSE, so lesser specs are rare and not worth any perceived savings you'd be making as you wouldn't be. Otherwise, there's HST and AB (Autobiography). HST slightly sportier looking and the AB all the options and a tad more luxurious. Enginewise, there's the fast petrol versions, even faster supercharged for fun (fast for 2.5 ton+ of metal anyway) OR there are the diesel versions 2.7TDV6, 3.6TDV8 or the post 2010 3.0 TDV6. The TDV8 can go wrong, 2.7 is pretty reliable and the 3.0 is more refined. Bodywise for an HSE, there was an upgrade around 2010 and another 2012. 2010 or later interior is better. Avoid the keyless entry, as they are a thief magnet.
I've had an MY07 TDV6 HSE for over 5 years & 50k miles. Bought it on 90k. It has been pretty reliable and I don't treat my car like a prima donna, it gets used, thrashed, filled up with crap, tows things and sometimes ventures off-road (which it is very good at). It isn't that much more to service that other premium makes via an Indy but the 7 yr/100k miler is a belt change which is not cheap. I've had a few issues all suspension related and those are more expensive than you would get or expect on a less focused car.
Its a big mile eater, really comfortable, totally practical and I love it. I will likely keep it for ages though I would like a new shape RRS as a stablemate.
Thx for that much appreciated
So in short as long as the suspension is all good and history the 2.7 hse on a 2007 onwards looked after is all good or the 3.0
To reinforce the comments about suspension - I had one when they first came out and it went into limp mode at the first sign of cold weather. Called LandRover assist and they thought it was suspension. The callcentre guy nearly shat himself when I said I was turning it off/on to try and clear the fault. It started fine and he said I was lucky
They said it had "the wrong grease" in the suspension connectors.....sounded a bit like "leaves on the rails" to me, but it never happened again. Aside from that, it was a great car. Very quiet and very comfy. (Always leave a bit more stopping distance, as it's 2 1/2 tons even with the ally bonnet etc.)
12 years on, I would imagine history and condition is everything. Get a good one with full history and I doubt it will depreciate much as they are always in demand.
I've owned a sport, it was a 2008 2.7 HSE bought at two years old with 15k miles and my sister owned the same spec car too from new. Great cars but expensive to run. For the first year of my ownership I had the remainder of the three year warranty which was handy as the suspension bushes needed replacing, very common problem. After the factory warranty expired I took out an extended landrover warranty with assist which cost £1150 a year iirc. The car suffered a few electrical issues and further suspension bush failures as well as electronic hand brake issues. My sisters car had more problems than mine but she's stuck with the brand where I've left. As for the TDV8's turbo failure isn't uncommon and is very expensive to fix.....
When evanshalshaw Durham take them in in part exchange they either send to another dealer or straight to auction. My mate is the used car salesman there, he says they aren't worth the hassle as they just come back for warranty work perpetually.
I was set on an 2010 HSE in grey they had in and he refused to let me buy it lol.
Sorry for the ramble. One of my pet disappointments JLR !
I think the main problem is they appear to be designed in a compartmentalised fashion based on the initial plans: Each department does their bit on their own then it's put together at the end with lacking communication and fore-thought.
That is sometimes what it feels like when working on them; For example did anyone think it was sensible to locate the air suspension compressor on a off-road vehicle in a place where even on road use it will fill up with mud and road silt? Sure put it in a flimsy plastic box, like that'll work, and bolt it to a steel chassis with a die-cast aluminium bracket...did anyone in design learn anything about the Series 1/2/2A/3/Defender/Discovery1 about what happens to aluminium when in contact with steel?
Or what about the oil drain plug situated on the side of the sump 2 inches from the chassis; resulting in a oil sprinkler system should you remove the plug to drain the oil as the escaping oil hits hits the chassis and sprays absolutely everywhere. Granted they did change the design eventually, but come on, how hard is to tap a drain plug on the bottom of the sump?
To kind of expand on my experience on these, every single one we have as a regular customer I.e someone who brings it in for service and routine maintenance has had theirs go wrong in one way or another. I can list it all but it's all common stuff found in the LR forums. The problem though is its not cheap, not just parts but the labour times involved can be massive. Some have been luckier, others have not. Personally I think they're OK upto about 5yrs and 80k, anything beyond that is murky waters.
Now if you are loaded or have top notch warranty and have an alternative car whilst it's being fixed for a few weeks. Then it could work in your favour.
Ok guys made my mind up looks like it's always going to be a and "I told you so" so not going to bother thinking about them from now on
Zany
One life m8. I don't regret for a moment having bought my RRS. It's had some suspension issues* but I've now put polybushes on and things are much better. Otherwise, totally reliable. People moan/groan and by their nature internet forums are about the times things go wrong. Early days of scoobynet was full of people complaining about scoobsgoing wrong, so much so that some people were put off.
Buy wisely, buy with a warranty and take mechanical care of it, like you would with any car and its absolutely fine. The smiles per mile are well worth it and other than possibly getting a 2nd petrol car (RRS?) as I might find myself living inside Khans proposed new LEZ, have no intention of getting rid of a great and practical car.
I've just come back from Donegal, 500+ miles each way, off to Wales twice over the next couple of weekends (over 500 miles each), 1 towing a 600kg trailler + load to/from one of the times, then driving to South West France for a weeks holiday the week after with the family. The RRS will do this admirably in style and comfort.
Don't discount the RRS and just experience it. If nothing else, depreciation isn't too bad - cost £18k and I'd get £9k for it now - that's for 5 years of ownership.
*Suspension issues are knocking from the front, due to ARB bushes and Front Arms (which you can polybush as well). I've also had front/rear ACE ARBs go (110k miles, 135k miles), which if you have a car without ACE is not an issue but the parts can be got new 1/2 the price of LR from eBay.
One life m8. I don't regret for a moment having bought my RRS. It's had some suspension issues* but I've now put polybushes on and things are much better. Otherwise, totally reliable. People moan/groan and by their nature internet forums are about the times things go wrong. Early days of scoobynet was full of people complaining about scoobsgoing wrong, so much so that some people were put off.
Buy wisely, buy with a warranty and take mechanical care of it, like you would with any car and its absolutely fine. The smiles per mile are well worth it and other than possibly getting a 2nd petrol car (RRS?) as I might find myself living inside Khans proposed new LEZ, have no intention of getting rid of a great and practical car.
I've just come back from Donegal, 500+ miles each way, off to Wales twice over the next couple of weekends (over 500 miles each), 1 towing a 600kg trailler + load to/from one of the times, then driving to South West France for a weeks holiday the week after with the family. The RRS will do this admirably in style and comfort.
Don't discount the RRS and just experience it. If nothing else, depreciation isn't too bad - cost £18k and I'd get £9k for it now - that's for 5 years of ownership.
*Suspension issues are knocking from the front, due to ARB bushes and Front Arms (which you can polybush as well). I've also had front/rear ACE ARBs go (110k miles, 135k miles), which if you have a car without ACE is not an issue but the parts can be got new 1/2 the price of LR from eBay.
You see boss for the last ten years I've come so close to buying one I could taste it always wanted one for myself as my Mrs hates them!!
but always too scared to buy one with all the scary stories I've been told but I'm not put off with suspension issues etc as I could sort that myself
it's more engine and turbos then the labour to do it all as I wouldn't touch it where as the Impreza I can do it all myself and no need to rely on anybody to sort my car no matter what went wrong if you know what I mean
I'm going to keep my eyes open for a mint model the hst does look more monstrous and the tdv8 one always appealed to me as I like a big engine to pull a heavy car although a mare has had a 2.7 for over 5years and tells me his bills start from a £1000
2.7TDV6 has been flawless and I would imagine the 3.0 would be even smoother and better.
TDV8s have had some issues for sure, mainly turbos but that hasn't been the case in the TDV6s
I've had a split turbo hose (lots of smoke) and EGR valve stuck, which I had blanked (gives better response anyway). Gearbox I had flushed at 110k miles. That's all enginewise.
2.7TDV6 has been flawless and I would imagine the 3.0 would be even smoother and better.
TDV8s have had some issues for sure, mainly turbos but that hasn't been the case in the TDV6s
I've had a split turbo hose (lots of smoke) and EGR valve stuck, which I had blanked (gives better response anyway). Gearbox I had flushed at 110k miles. That's all enginewise.
Advice of all experience is definitely appreciated this is what I needed to know about the engines etc
Have the EGRs blanked off and a basic remap to compensate. I didn't bother until one of mine went, so had it done plus a performance remap. As a result, the car drives much smoother.
Have the EGRs blanked off and a basic remap to compensate. I didn't bother until one of mine went, so had it done plus a performance remap. As a result, the car drives much smoother.
Shouldn't blank EGRs on a TDV8 apparently.
That's definetley one of the things I'll be checking for sure on the list and if done allready it'll be a bonus if not I'll get it done
I may have been quiet for the past week or so; this is why....
Another RRS body off job
Lunched a turbo, filled intakes with oil (including air filter housing ).
Didn't post anything until it was all back together and running ok; as not wanting to tempt fate or tease the devil Lots of rusty bolts and broken clips, cursing and generally being stroppy. Even with the body off the turbos (and alternator for that) are still awkward to get at.
Also the 3.0tdv6 with EGR issues ended up going to the main dealers; they diagnosed the new EGR was faulty (which one? They didn't say ) , they replaced it under warranty. It didn't fix it, they then blamed DPF blockage as the loading was near the threshold, which I had back, manually cleaned and reset...fault still there. Kicked it back to them...they had it for another ten days awaiting tech help from LR. Finally diagnosed as a faulty throttle body why oh why that gives a EGR position error I don't know; Probably sloppy ECU programming/translation of code descriptors.
Now have 99 problems but at least Range Rover ain't one: Now have a twin turbo Merc sprinter that won't make target boost even with both the wastegates shut, at least the turbos are a peace of p**s to get at on these (unfortunately the manifold isn't, which I suspect is fubared). And the E60 M5 I sorted a few weeks ago spat out its dummy. To top it off the engine on a Bipper 1.3hdi seized up on me (awkward face).
I have also done one,not a range rover sport but a disco 3.0 tdv6...big end failure!
Seems to be common problems on the newer 3.0tdv6 ; At the local dealerships, All three of their courtesy discos are out of action awaiting new engines. Whilst I was waiting to talk to someone, a customer with a commercial Discovery also had an engine failure, to be replaced on warranty.
Although I do suspect any engine job at a dealers that needs the body removed, they probably replace everything with a ready to drop in crate lump (aka repair by replacement); They used to do that with the Deltic trains
Seems to be common problems on the newer 3.0tdv6 ; At the local dealerships, All three of their courtesy discos are out of action awaiting new engines. Whilst I was waiting to talk to someone, a customer with a commercial Discovery also had an engine failure, to be replaced on warranty.
Although I do suspect any engine job at a dealers that needs the body removed, they probably replace everything with a ready to drop in crate lump (aka repair by replacement); They used to do that with the Deltic trains
Ahhh Deltics, made the most incredible sound
Oh btw I wouldn't touch a disco or rr having read some proper horror stories over the years.
Oh btw I wouldn't touch a disco or rr having read some proper horror stories over the years.
I think they were always troublesome as they've always pushed the technology at the time (except the Rover V8 engine), but up to the P38 and Disco2 everything was pretty much fixable within a acceptable level of time/labour.
When they went monocoque (L322) and brought out the Disco3/L320 chassis I think they tried to squeeze too much into a chassis that is too narrow. It does seem they were not designed for a "vee" engine, or at least one without two turbos squeezed in on each side.
I also criticise Ford's logic in copying the intake/cam cover designs used on the Ford/PSA 1.6 and 1.4 diesels where the intake has bypasses, converluted pipework treating each bank individually and making it part of the cam cover; a leaking injector seal on a 1.6tdci is bad enough, but one on a Tdv6 will just ruin your week. (And intake manifolds on TDv6s do crack)
Indeed they've massively simplified the 1.6tdci; it's now gone from a twin cam, 4 valves per cylinder, with intercooler bypass and Ott manifold, to one cam, two valves, single intake port and basic manifold. As a result it's now more reliable and easier to work on; they need to do this on the TDV6 and TDV8; turbo diesels don't need quad cams and 4 valves as the turbo can overcome flow issues. Most low speed "lag" and poor toque is caused by emissions control to prevent the DPF sooting up prematurely, over-complicated intakes and multiple valves don't make much difference in overcoming this.
Their diagnostic stuff leaves a lot to be desired too. Ok I'm lumbered with aftermarket kit, but I dread Jag and Land Rovers; They could improve diagnostics massively if they do what Merc and VAG do and identify components by code in diagnostics error descriptions (like N75 for the VNT actuator valve or J104 for the ABS unit), that way it ties I with part ordering.
Denso PAN-PAG equipped AJV8s are a just a no-go with most of my kit. So I simply dread them if they have a electronic issue as I'm just working blind and gut instinct. The one boss has a Ajv8 Jag, he's a utter nightmare if it plays up and can't understand why I can't just "plug it in and fix it" like I can with a VAG or BM.
03 July 2017, 01:07 PM
Range Rover sport advice wanted
and "I told you so" so not going to bother thinking about them from now on 
). 
) , they replaced it under warranty. It didn't fix it, they then blamed DPF blockage as the loading was near the threshold, which I had back, manually cleaned and reset...fault still there. Kicked it back to them...they had it for another ten days awaiting tech help from LR. Finally diagnosed as a faulty throttle body 
why oh why that gives a EGR position error I don't know; Probably sloppy ECU programming/translation of code descriptors. 
