Petem95

Anyone got any tips?!..

Basically it's faded and the wood has gone quite grey. Tried teak oil and this has done pretty much nothing.

Have read mixed reviews regards Cuprinol Garden Furniture restorer, but may give it a go.

Anyone had any success?..

Petem95

Sorted!

Bit of a sand down prior to applying some more teak oil and now it's looking like new!

David Lock

Teak oil doesn't like sunlight. It will go grey again. I got fed up with annual sanding down and re-applying teak oil so used a varnish instead. Not as nice as show room new look but OK. David

JTaylor

Just done this myself. Sanded with an orbital, a detailer and by hand and then applied three coats of Ronseal hardwood furniture stain in natural, rubbing down in between and using quality dedicated varnish brushes and a roller. Looks better than when it came out of the workshop and should last three years or more.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Teak goes grey as it weathers. That's how it's supposed to look. A rub down with a very fine sand paper once a year is all it needs. You can stain/varnish them but once you go down that route, you'll have to repeat (strip/varnish) every year. Teak is used for garden furniture and sailing and anything else exposed to the elements, as it contains natural oils which protect it from rot. If you varnish/paint it then you inhibit the oil getting to the surface and protecting the wood. So once committed, you'll have to repeat the process as and when.

David Lock

https://www.scoobynet.com/non-scooby...furniture.html

it wasn't a quick job sanding down my table. It was 6' round with a Lazy Susan and 8 slatted chairs.

The varnish or Ronseal I used lasted a good 5 years before I moved and sold the table. I'd also suggest a custom cover for winter when I stored all the folded chairs under the table.

David

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I use a pressure washer with a fan nozzle (wide, not pencil), in even strokes, this cleans off the grey and any lichen/miss/algae.

Then it's a case of sanding smooth (power sander for speed) and treating.

Forget oils and teak/furniture preservatives you see at DIY stores unless you want to re-treat every 6months.

Sikkens wood stain, one base with a darker stain then two top coats of a lighter stain.

Osmo and Fiddes also do some good (albeit pricey) stuff, but haven't personally tried it on outdoor stuff.

Ronseal 5yr does the job too, but I found you need to give it a light rub down and extra coat every 3years or so on timber that's horizontal or gets a lot of sun.



Obviously if it's rotten the pressure washer will just wreck it!

dpb

On a hiding to nothing , this is the way teak is supposed to be unless you've a man to upkeep your varnish work weekly

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

oil based boat varnish if you can still buy it, my double glazed window frames havent needed doing in 20+ years still look like new,

dpb

You havnt touched them for 20 years , mus be pretty special varnish lol

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

not sure what it was my mum had them done when she was alive, the frames are ive been told are african mahogony(forgive the spellong lol) they where made by a 70 year old joiner friend of fathers to fit, he varnished them before fitting, i have lived here 8 years and not had to recoat them and i know for a fact they are over 20 years old

dpb

Probably Afromosia

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

not sure but the old bloke over the road was/is a boat builder told me the frames will out last me and ime 51 lol. he said if they ever needed doing stainless scotch brite to remove any contaminate and recoat using oil based not water based clear varnish

JTaylor

Yeah, I pressured ours on the same nozzle.

neil-h

That's the important bit, it's all in the preparation with these things.

dpb

Pressure washer washer will just wash out the pulp

skoobidude

Pressure washed ours then painted them olive green. Brought 7yr old furniture back to life.