Preserving old timber sheds
20 February 2017, 12:57 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Weston Super Mare, Somerset.
Posts: 14,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Preserving old timber sheds
I moved houses recently and the new place has 3 wooden sheds. They could do with a bit of tlc to stop the rot as they say. My default plan would be to get some green or natural colour Cuprinol and either a 5 inch brush or a 5 litre manual spray pump to make life easier.
But my shed painting days are 10 years out of date so any suggestions i.e any alternatives to Cuprinol? Should I paint the insides as well? Cost is a factor. I'll probably pay a painting Pole to do the work so time taken also comes into play.
Thanks, David
But my shed painting days are 10 years out of date so any suggestions i.e any alternatives to Cuprinol? Should I paint the insides as well? Cost is a factor. I'll probably pay a painting Pole to do the work so time taken also comes into play.
Thanks, David
20 February 2017, 01:20 PM
#2
I think I'll be the first one to say that pretty much all modern fence/shed paint basically has the properties of coloured water and protected the timber as such.
What I ended up doing was planing and sanding the rough-cut timber smooth and using exterior woodstain (3 coats of Ronseal 5yr for the most ). Lasted about 6 years before needing a re-coat, bar the gate which the cat had scratched when climbing up/down so needed re-doing sooner. Obviously this is more labour intensive, although mitigated with a electric plane and a good power sander. Its also more costly (a modest quality woodstain is about four times more expensive), so it depends on how much you cherish your sheds, if the wood is already greyed/rotting it maybe too late anyway.
What I ended up doing was planing and sanding the rough-cut timber smooth and using exterior woodstain (3 coats of Ronseal 5yr for the most ). Lasted about 6 years before needing a re-coat, bar the gate which the cat had scratched when climbing up/down so needed re-doing sooner. Obviously this is more labour intensive, although mitigated with a electric plane and a good power sander. Its also more costly (a modest quality woodstain is about four times more expensive), so it depends on how much you cherish your sheds, if the wood is already greyed/rotting it maybe too late anyway.
Last edited by ALi-B; 20 February 2017 at 01:23 PM.
20 February 2017, 01:39 PM
#3
Scooby Regular
Don't bother with that water based cuprinol stuff, the stuff is made where i work and its just coloured water and washes off after a while, oil or solvent based stuff is way better for protecting the wood against the elements
20 February 2017, 01:41 PM
#4
Scooby Regular
Similar question.
I want to paint/stain my fencing but what do I do about the neighbours side of the fence? Ask them if it's ok to come in and do it? I have a number of rows of fencing where it's not possible to access the other side - up against concrete wall or neighbours own fence/sheds.
I want to paint/stain my fencing but what do I do about the neighbours side of the fence? Ask them if it's ok to come in and do it? I have a number of rows of fencing where it's not possible to access the other side - up against concrete wall or neighbours own fence/sheds.
20 February 2017, 02:28 PM
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Weston Super Mare, Somerset.
Posts: 14,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I posted a thread with my thanks included but this seems not to have reached Scoobynet???
I would guess sheds are 10 plus years old and had been used as workshops with power and light. No major rot and felt roofing seems OK. But they do need a coat of something or other to keep them going for a few years.
Is wood stain similar to varnish and can it be sprayed on? Is there a matt or gloss choice?
David
I would guess sheds are 10 plus years old and had been used as workshops with power and light. No major rot and felt roofing seems OK. But they do need a coat of something or other to keep them going for a few years.
Is wood stain similar to varnish and can it be sprayed on? Is there a matt or gloss choice?
David
Trending Topics
20 February 2017, 03:23 PM
#8
You can't buy proper creosote as Joe Public anymore. So if you can't find a friendly business to get you some, make your own.
Old engine oil, thinned with a little diesel. Add in some ash if you have access to some. Mix up. Apply with a big brush.
Old engine oil, thinned with a little diesel. Add in some ash if you have access to some. Mix up. Apply with a big brush.
20 February 2017, 04:54 PM
#9
Scooby Regular
I remember as a small kid my grandad building a shed out of hardboard around a timber frame. I can remember a couple of my uncles saying it would not last long. Well my grandad lathered it in old engine oil from his truck, it lasted for years although you did not want to get too close to it
That reminds me, my grandad also was the first person in our village to own a truck with inflatable tyres
That reminds me, my grandad also was the first person in our village to own a truck with inflatable tyres
20 February 2017, 07:06 PM
#10
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Weston Super Mare, Somerset.
Posts: 14,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I remember as a small kid my grandad building a shed out of hardboard around a timber frame. I can remember a couple of my uncles saying it would not last long. Well my grandad lathered it in old engine oil from his truck, it lasted for years although you did not want to get too close to it
That reminds me, my grandad also was the first person in our village to own a truck with inflatable tyres
That reminds me, my grandad also was the first person in our village to own a truck with inflatable tyres
But did he ever find a garage that knew how to mend a puncture
(or had an airline
)David
20 February 2017, 09:00 PM
#11
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's a shame that modern wood seems to go to **** in a few years. The eves on an extension to my old school - built maybe 10 years ago - are all starting to crack and split, same on a 15 years old 'Victorian style' property near me.
I notice around the back of the Old Wellington/Sinclair's Oyster Bar in Manchester, some of the new wood structures are starting to look like crap also, but the ancient wood is fine. It's said the original wooden frame was salvaged from old ships so would be very old and dense wood. Weird that 500 year old wood lasts longer than 10 year old wood.
I notice around the back of the Old Wellington/Sinclair's Oyster Bar in Manchester, some of the new wood structures are starting to look like crap also, but the ancient wood is fine. It's said the original wooden frame was salvaged from old ships so would be very old and dense wood. Weird that 500 year old wood lasts longer than 10 year old wood.
20 February 2017, 09:25 PM
#12
Scooby Regular
It's a shame that modern wood seems to go to **** in a few years. The eves on an extension to my old school - built maybe 10 years ago - are all starting to crack and split, same on a 15 years old 'Victorian style' property near me.
I notice around the back of the Old Wellington/Sinclair's Oyster Bar in Manchester, some of the new wood structures are starting to look like crap also, but the ancient wood is fine. It's said the original wooden frame was salvaged from old ships so would be very old and dense wood. Weird that 500 year old wood lasts longer than 10 year old wood.
I notice around the back of the Old Wellington/Sinclair's Oyster Bar in Manchester, some of the new wood structures are starting to look like crap also, but the ancient wood is fine. It's said the original wooden frame was salvaged from old ships so would be very old and dense wood. Weird that 500 year old wood lasts longer than 10 year old wood.
20 February 2017, 09:26 PM
#13
Scooby Regular
20 February 2017, 09:31 PM
#14
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: riding the crest of a wave ...
Posts: 46,493
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
The together wood would have slower growth and full of resin , could be pitch pine
newer wood is grown faster and dispensed with faster .
Modern world . houses are built to last 15 years till the land is more valuable and then start again. Flats in marina down here are clad in compressed cardboard coated with some wonder material
( anyway they all have had to be redone , not 5 years old - due to the weather)
newer wood is grown faster and dispensed with faster .
Modern world . houses are built to last 15 years till the land is more valuable and then start again. Flats in marina down here are clad in compressed cardboard coated with some wonder material
( anyway they all have had to be redone , not 5 years old - due to the weather)
Last edited by dpb; 20 February 2017 at 09:32 PM.
20 February 2017, 09:34 PM
#15
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's a shame to watch buildings go down the crapper like this.
20 February 2017, 09:36 PM
#16
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The together wood would have slower growth and full of resin , could be pitch pine
newer wood is grown faster and dispensed with faster .
Modern world . houses are built to last 15 years till the land is more valuable and then start again. Flats in marina down here are clad in compressed cardboard coated with some wonder material
( anyway they all have had to be redone , not 5 years old - due to the weather)
newer wood is grown faster and dispensed with faster .
Modern world . houses are built to last 15 years till the land is more valuable and then start again. Flats in marina down here are clad in compressed cardboard coated with some wonder material
( anyway they all have had to be redone , not 5 years old - due to the weather)
20 February 2017, 10:26 PM
#17
Scooby Regular
20 February 2017, 10:58 PM
#19
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's amazing how scruffy new(ish) houses look after a few years. I can see period houses near me which look more dignified.
21 February 2017, 09:21 AM
#20
People tent to use the cheapest timber they can find, which is usually regularised softwood untreated so won't last very long at all outside, pay the bit extra though and get pressure treated/tanalised and it lasts.
I think tanalised timber is branded with a 25year lifespan so not too bad for treated softwood.
I think tanalised timber is branded with a 25year lifespan so not too bad for treated softwood.
23 February 2017, 02:00 PM
#21
It's a shame that modern wood seems to go to **** in a few years. The eves on an extension to my old school - built maybe 10 years ago - are all starting to crack and split, same on a 15 years old 'Victorian style' property near me.
I notice around the back of the Old Wellington/Sinclair's Oyster Bar in Manchester, some of the new wood structures are starting to look like crap also, but the ancient wood is fine. It's said the original wooden frame was salvaged from old ships so would be very old and dense wood. Weird that 500 year old wood lasts longer than 10 year old wood.
I notice around the back of the Old Wellington/Sinclair's Oyster Bar in Manchester, some of the new wood structures are starting to look like crap also, but the ancient wood is fine. It's said the original wooden frame was salvaged from old ships so would be very old and dense wood. Weird that 500 year old wood lasts longer than 10 year old wood.
A lot of oak nowadays is farm grown in France, and the growth process is sped up, so what would normally take 50 years to grow can take only 15 years.
The downside is the oak is not as strong as normal oak.
Over time oak gets harder and stronger.
I'm in the middle of renovating a 400 year old oak framed farm cottage, the stairs and upstairs floorboards I've prepped and put down are circa 300 years old, and have even been in the cottage and suffered fire damage some 50 years ago (Chared timber is in fact very well preserved) but have been through a planer thicknesser so you would never know.
Boiled linseed oil is very good for preserving bare timber, and if you add a bottle of lemon juice it will stop woodworm.
23 February 2017, 06:48 PM
#22
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Angus
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I knew it was ****e but I didn't realise it was that ****e. Surely there must be some preservatives in there or it would be tantamount to fraudulent selling.
23 February 2017, 07:27 PM
#23
Scooby Regular
Depends what wood it is, if it's oak then green oak will warp and crack. Oak needs to be seasoned to stop this.
A lot of oak nowadays is farm grown in France, and the growth process is sped up, so what would normally take 50 years to grow can take only 15 years.
The downside is the oak is not as strong as normal oak.
Over time oak gets harder and stronger.
I'm in the middle of renovating a 400 year old oak framed farm cottage, the stairs and upstairs floorboards I've prepped and put down are circa 300 years old, and have even been in the cottage and suffered fire damage some 50 years ago (Chared timber is in fact very well preserved) but have been through a planer thicknesser so you would never know.
Boiled linseed oil is very good for preserving bare timber, and if you add a bottle of lemon juice it will stop woodworm.
A lot of oak nowadays is farm grown in France, and the growth process is sped up, so what would normally take 50 years to grow can take only 15 years.
The downside is the oak is not as strong as normal oak.
Over time oak gets harder and stronger.
I'm in the middle of renovating a 400 year old oak framed farm cottage, the stairs and upstairs floorboards I've prepped and put down are circa 300 years old, and have even been in the cottage and suffered fire damage some 50 years ago (Chared timber is in fact very well preserved) but have been through a planer thicknesser so you would never know.
Boiled linseed oil is very good for preserving bare timber, and if you add a bottle of lemon juice it will stop woodworm.
That is a new one on me, you learn something new everyday as they say
27 February 2017, 09:47 PM
#24
And for soffits or any other bits of wood on the house... an old roofer told me to use hammerite smooth... but the one that's for metal... so I did... and 8yrs on it looks like I did it last week.
At the time he told me he said he did his the same way 20yrs prior after being given the tip and it was still good... so that's good enough for me.
28 February 2017, 11:29 AM
#25
Scooby Regular
I **LOVE** the smell of Creosote - takes me right back to long hot summer school holidays in the '70's playing out all day long..... god we went miles endways without a care..... its one of those evocative smells.....
Old Engine oil is your friend here though
Old Engine oil is your friend here though
d