08/09 Hatches, Stand up and show yourselves!!!
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Scooby Regular
Not struck a nerve at all mate
There’s not been a reported engine failure with a Jdm hatch that I’ve seen as of yet and a lot lads have them remapped etc
In fact there was a Jdm thread a few years back with versions 8-9 running well in excess of 450 bhp for years wo issues
I based my decision to buy a Jdm in reading a lot of those threads
I think a standard uk car is pale in comparison hit the search button on here
There’s not been a reported engine failure with a Jdm hatch that I’ve seen as of yet and a lot lads have them remapped etc
In fact there was a Jdm thread a few years back with versions 8-9 running well in excess of 450 bhp for years wo issues
I based my decision to buy a Jdm in reading a lot of those threads
I think a standard uk car is pale in comparison hit the search button on here
from what iv read the pistons arnt the same as they were in the version 8-9 and are more similar material to the newer 2.5 pistons and are prone to the same problems
let say for arguments sake that 50% of the newer JDM hatchbacks have the same problems due to the piston type ,,, would we in the uk see the problem with the lack of JDM hatch numbers over here ?? (as performance seems to have built a few) ,, there are plenty of standard uk 2.5's still kicking about running good numbers but that doesn't mean all uk 2.5s are good as we have the number over here to prove otherwise
I agree that the easier models going JDM was the way to go due to head ports and piston type (not a fan of twin scroll) ,, but from what AS performance has said that isn't the case with the JDM hatchback and newer as there pistons are made from very similar material to the uk 2.5
Scooby Regular
its just my thoughts on the subject and I'm not trying to take anything away by my comments as I still think yours is a awesome car and would happily own it alone side all mine
would acutely be a very good addition to my collection
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (37)
just stating the facts from what iv read,, it has similar problems by the sound of it we just don't get the numbers of them over here to see it so people assume there bullet proof
wouldn't give up my 2.5 as when built right its a awesome engine with the burble a Subaru should have lol
wouldn't give up my 2.5 as when built right its a awesome engine with the burble a Subaru should have lol
Scooby Regular
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Scooby Regular
Last edited by kershaw-330s; 28 March 2018 at 08:00 PM.
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
anybody ever suffered from this? Long cranking to get started/maybe not starting at all?
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-gener...-know-why.html
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/warranty...any-ideas.html
im starting to get it on my 330s over past couple of months....basically you cannot jump in and hit the button to start anymore. well you can but its a 50/50 chance it'll start.
need to go through the stages of ignition on/dial sweep/then start.
initially thought it was a crank sensor issue as that what eventually throw a CEL after a long time cranking. a quick wiggle of the crank sensor loom wire would then 'seemingly' cure it, and i wondered if it was a dry joint so took that off and cleaned it up - but still has the issue - i can now even time it so that it wont through the CEL but will still require a loom wiggle to start
i'm wondering if its battery related - battery seems strong enough but ive read they are susceptible to even slightest deterioration in battery power
once started the car has zero running issues and runs perfectly
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-gener...-know-why.html
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/warranty...any-ideas.html
im starting to get it on my 330s over past couple of months....basically you cannot jump in and hit the button to start anymore. well you can but its a 50/50 chance it'll start.
need to go through the stages of ignition on/dial sweep/then start.
initially thought it was a crank sensor issue as that what eventually throw a CEL after a long time cranking. a quick wiggle of the crank sensor loom wire would then 'seemingly' cure it, and i wondered if it was a dry joint so took that off and cleaned it up - but still has the issue - i can now even time it so that it wont through the CEL but will still require a loom wiggle to start
i'm wondering if its battery related - battery seems strong enough but ive read they are susceptible to even slightest deterioration in battery power
once started the car has zero running issues and runs perfectly
Replaced battery few weeks ago as it showed it was pretty low on CCA. This didn't cure my problem
car finally decided on Monday it was going to refuse to start no matter what. No CEL just continual cranking. In meantime I'd picked up a new genuine crank sensor on Japan eBay for humble money (compared to the £160 the dealers wanted!) Swapped it in and car is now working 100% again. Will start on button without it needing to cycle through ignition on, sweep etc.
Scooby Regular
follow up...
Replaced battery few weeks ago as it showed it was pretty low on CCA. This didn't cure my problem
car finally decided on Monday it was going to refuse to start no matter what. No CEL just continual cranking. In meantime I'd picked up a new genuine crank sensor on Japan eBay for humble money (compared to the £160 the dealers wanted!) Swapped it in and car is now working 100% again. Will start on button without it needing to cycle through ignition on, sweep etc.
Replaced battery few weeks ago as it showed it was pretty low on CCA. This didn't cure my problem
car finally decided on Monday it was going to refuse to start no matter what. No CEL just continual cranking. In meantime I'd picked up a new genuine crank sensor on Japan eBay for humble money (compared to the £160 the dealers wanted!) Swapped it in and car is now working 100% again. Will start on button without it needing to cycle through ignition on, sweep etc.
interesting glad lad you got it sorted .. I see someone on the Subaru club on fb was having a very similar problem in a blob , he would get in his car and it would never start first time but always second 🤷🏻*♂️, are you running TGv deletes on your car ?
Scooby Regular
Importing parts
My parcel is on its way from Japan , but appears to be stuck in customs in Coventry . Just says on the tracker awaiting customs clearance and has done for 3 days now 😕 , I’m totally aware there will be fees to pay on the parcel , but previously when I’ve ordered from Japan , they deliver the parcel to the local depot and you can pay and collect the parcel there , just wondering if this is still the case? or will the fees need paying before it leaves Coventry and I just need to wait for the letter ? ,, slightly concerned because it keeps going into limbo , left Japan took 4 days to arrive in the uk , then was processed now it seems to be in limbo again not moved for another 3 days 😕
Scooby Regular
My parcel is on its way from Japan , but appears to be stuck in customs in Coventry . Just says on the tracker awaiting customs clearance and has done for 3 days now 😕 , I’m totally aware there will be fees to pay on the parcel , but previously when I’ve ordered from Japan , they deliver the parcel to the local depot and you can pay and collect the parcel there , just wondering if this is still the case? or will the fees need paying before it leaves Coventry and I just need to wait for the letter ? ,, slightly concerned because it keeps going into limbo , left Japan took 4 days to arrive in the uk , then was processed now it seems to be in limbo again not moved for another 3 days 😕
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
nope no TGV deletes - i keep them in as they help (ever so slightly) the economy on the daily commute
any time ive got stuff from Japan, its said its stuck in customs - then eventually turns up long before the tracking is updated online
Scooby Regular
My parcel is on its way from Japan , but appears to be stuck in customs in Coventry . Just says on the tracker awaiting customs clearance and has done for 3 days now , I’m totally aware there will be fees to pay on the parcel , but previously when I’ve ordered from Japan , they deliver the parcel to the local depot and you can pay and collect the parcel there , just wondering if this is still the case? or will the fees need paying before it leaves Coventry and I just need to wait for the letter ? ,, slightly concerned because it keeps going into limbo , left Japan took 4 days to arrive in the uk , then was processed now it seems to be in limbo again not moved for another 3 days
A reply I got from Parcelforce having waited a week for one item to re appear from that dark hole........................
Dear Donald
Thank you for your email.
Our tracking confirms your parcel is currently with UK Border Force (UKBF) awaiting Customs clearance.UKBF and Parcelforce are separate organisations, as such we have no control over the length of time that it will take for your parcel to clear. The delivery speed guarantee does cease when the item has been presented to Customs and restarts once the item has been released. Regretfully, I'm unable to give you a date of when your parcel will be released back into the Parcelforce network for delivery.
If your parcel is released with no charges we will attempt delivery the first possible working day.
If your parcel is released with charges a letter regarding this will be sent to you, this includes a 17 digit reference number that you will need to pay the amount required. The parcel will be held in your local depot pending payment. When your parcel is released from Customs, if you haven't received your letter within 7 days of release, please email us again and we'll be happy to help you with this.You can pay your charges online here or you can call our customer service team on 03448 004466 (calls are charges at national rates). Once payment has been received you are able to select a convenient delivery date.
You can track your item by clicking here.
Glenys - Email Team
Thank you for your email.
Our tracking confirms your parcel is currently with UK Border Force (UKBF) awaiting Customs clearance.UKBF and Parcelforce are separate organisations, as such we have no control over the length of time that it will take for your parcel to clear. The delivery speed guarantee does cease when the item has been presented to Customs and restarts once the item has been released. Regretfully, I'm unable to give you a date of when your parcel will be released back into the Parcelforce network for delivery.
If your parcel is released with no charges we will attempt delivery the first possible working day.
If your parcel is released with charges a letter regarding this will be sent to you, this includes a 17 digit reference number that you will need to pay the amount required. The parcel will be held in your local depot pending payment. When your parcel is released from Customs, if you haven't received your letter within 7 days of release, please email us again and we'll be happy to help you with this.You can pay your charges online here or you can call our customer service team on 03448 004466 (calls are charges at national rates). Once payment has been received you are able to select a convenient delivery date.
You can track your item by clicking here.
Glenys - Email Team
Scooby Regular
Hae had items languishing in Coventry for a week or more before - depends how busy the UK Border Force agents are. (apparently out of the hands of ParcelForce as to how long they take to process it and get it back in the sytem)
A reply I got from Parcelforce having waited a week for one item to re appear from that dark hole........................
A reply I got from Parcelforce having waited a week for one item to re appear from that dark hole........................
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
Have a new Perrin inner wing induction kit in black for sale on Gumtree and a few Subaru Facebook pages.
Anyone on here interested before I list it on eBay ?
(which I don't want to do as they're a rip off)
Anyone on here interested before I list it on eBay ?
(which I don't want to do as they're a rip off)
Last edited by CharlySkunkWeed; 04 April 2018 at 04:34 PM.
Scooby Senior
what does it mean when...
in sports#
DCCD in Auto, but you go + on controller.
been told you get extra performance.. is that right?
in sports#
DCCD in Auto, but you go + on controller.
been told you get extra performance.. is that right?
Scooby Regular
depends on what you mean by extra performance ,, it will handle differently but no extra power just different grip performance
Scooby Regular
I have a question tho , when you how down the tc button for a couple seconds the tc light comes on but is green , what does this mean ?
Scooby Regular
This isn’t the one I was looking for but still explains the different settings a lil bit
thats it 👍🏼
And this ones all about the center diff
thats it 👍🏼
And this ones all about the center diff
Last edited by kershaw-330s; 05 April 2018 at 07:55 AM.
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
Have to laugh at the middle video. Turn traction control off if you want to go on the track. I bet if your pistons melted and you told Subaru UK it happened on a track they'd just laugh at you.
Scooby Regular
not sure about the slightly more to the front wheels because that’s not how the dccd works anyway , it alters the amount of slip between the front and rear wheels the power delivery is alway , 41 fr - 59 rear iirc , putting it in plus mode , tightens the diffs , slows less slip and also increases the traction control and abs setting to make them more sensitive . There is a good video on YouTube which explains the dccd really well. ,
I have a question tho , when you how down the tc button for a couple seconds the tc light comes on but is green , what does this mean ?
the centre diff controls the torque split between the front and rear diff ,,, i.e. the more you lock it up the more it goes toward a 50-50 split , i.e. power delivery to front and rear wheels is the same ,, putting it in auto+ will make it ajust for front end grip on slippery roads
in your video he says the the computer ajusts where the grip needs to be and will move it forward or back depending on where it needs to be
when the green traction control light is on the system is in "traction mode" , when it stays yellow the system is turned off
owners manual is a good read lol
Last edited by domino46; 05 April 2018 at 09:28 AM.
Scooby Regular
might of explained it wrong
the centre diff controls the torque split between the front and rear diff ,,, i.e. the more you lock it up the more it goes toward a 50-50 split , i.e. power delivery to front and rear wheels is the same ,, putting it in auto+ will make it ajust for front end grip on slippery roads
in your video he says the the computer ajusts where the grip needs to be and will move it forward or back depending on where it needs to be
when the green traction control light is on the system is in "traction mode" , when it stays yellow the system is turned off
owners manual is a good read lol
the centre diff controls the torque split between the front and rear diff ,,, i.e. the more you lock it up the more it goes toward a 50-50 split , i.e. power delivery to front and rear wheels is the same ,, putting it in auto+ will make it ajust for front end grip on slippery roads
in your video he says the the computer ajusts where the grip needs to be and will move it forward or back depending on where it needs to be
when the green traction control light is on the system is in "traction mode" , when it stays yellow the system is turned off
owners manual is a good read lol
What im trying to say which I think your trying to get at is the fact when you it in auto plus it’s not constantly sending more torque to the front only in a slip contidition hence the auto but if you were to put in manual yes that would be case , that’s why auto plus for more slippery condition and auto - for dry condition
Last edited by kershaw-330s; 05 April 2018 at 11:30 AM.
Scooby Senior
Scooby Regular
yes it’s weird how one press is fully off and hold is stability mode 🧐 , the opposite to the saloon , watching the vid , I think the wheel breaking is de activated , but the revs are electronically limited when slip occurs to stop you spinning the car , but still alowes some slip
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
R205 black fender emblems (how much did you pay for them?), Cusco steering rack bracket and something from Laile.
Last edited by fpan; 08 April 2018 at 10:47 AM.