bugeye headlights????
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From: dagenham a13
would it be possible if anyone could make me the adaptor to fit my sti lights onto my bug. ive lost patience with the guy from canada, made payment on the 20th oct and still not here yet, emailed the guy on several times but no reply
... i'll make a paypal complaint to try and get my money back
but again would anybody know how to make these ballists, i would pay you good money if you can
wiley
... i'll make a paypal complaint to try and get my money backbut again would anybody know how to make these ballists, i would pay you good money if you can
wiley
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Sorry do you have the ballasts for the HID headlights ?
If you chop the standard plugs off and join to the JDM loom it shouldn't be too bad, but not nice to return to std. later... if needed.
DunxC
If you chop the standard plugs off and join to the JDM loom it shouldn't be too bad, but not nice to return to std. later... if needed.
DunxC
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Can you live with a permanent fix ?
Just identify power and earth for lights, ( main & dip beam ), then solder direct to HID's, and insulate. Sounds easy I know, but quite a brain teaser in reality ! Bear in mind that Subaru use a single live feed to the H4 bulb (WRX), and then switch the main & dip filaments to earth separately.
Good luck !
DunxC
Just identify power and earth for lights, ( main & dip beam ), then solder direct to HID's, and insulate. Sounds easy I know, but quite a brain teaser in reality ! Bear in mind that Subaru use a single live feed to the H4 bulb (WRX), and then switch the main & dip filaments to earth separately.
Good luck !
DunxC
I recently got a set of UK sti headlights for my bug wrx. I have made a "bodge" loom for the time being until I can source some H4, HB3 and H1 connectors to make a proper loom like the ones some people are selling.
The bodge loom consists of 3 male spade connectors to fit into the female H4 connector on the main loom on the car. The live splits off into two wires, one for the dipped, one for the main beam, and the earths go off seperately to their respective lamps. I bypassed the H1 connector on the sti headlamp unit for the dipped beam, and went straight into the bulb with my makeshift loom using two female spades - to do this I had to pull the grommet with the wire going through it out of the cover which goes over the projector housing, to then put my wire through the hole and I tried to seal it as best I could with some pvc tape. I found that two of the smaller female spades (3 or 5 amp I think) will fit into the HB3 connector on the headlamp unit for the main beam.
Everything works fine, although the dipped lamp goes out when main beam is selected as this is how the headlights are setup to work on the wrx. I plan to add a relay when I make a proper loom to allow dipped to remain on with main beam.
I know it's not a proper solution, but at least I haven't cut up the loom on my car and I have the sti lights working which is great! All you need to buy is the multi pack of spade connectors from halfrauds and a bit of wire and you're away!
Hope this helps
The bodge loom consists of 3 male spade connectors to fit into the female H4 connector on the main loom on the car. The live splits off into two wires, one for the dipped, one for the main beam, and the earths go off seperately to their respective lamps. I bypassed the H1 connector on the sti headlamp unit for the dipped beam, and went straight into the bulb with my makeshift loom using two female spades - to do this I had to pull the grommet with the wire going through it out of the cover which goes over the projector housing, to then put my wire through the hole and I tried to seal it as best I could with some pvc tape. I found that two of the smaller female spades (3 or 5 amp I think) will fit into the HB3 connector on the headlamp unit for the main beam.
Everything works fine, although the dipped lamp goes out when main beam is selected as this is how the headlights are setup to work on the wrx. I plan to add a relay when I make a proper loom to allow dipped to remain on with main beam.
I know it's not a proper solution, but at least I haven't cut up the loom on my car and I have the sti lights working which is great! All you need to buy is the multi pack of spade connectors from halfrauds and a bit of wire and you're away!
Hope this helps
Last edited by 4stringMike; Nov 16, 2008 at 12:38 AM.
Sorry, just re-read the thread again and there seems to be some confusion as to whether you have the HID headlamps or not. As far as I'm aware, if they are uk ones they will be halogen - pretty sure HID wasn't available for the uk. If yours are halogen, then my previous post stands, if not then what I said before is irrelevant to you because you will need to run uprated cabling straight off the battery switched via the standard lighting loom via relays. This is because of the high voltage involved during the startup of the HID's and the standard lighting loom on your car will not cope with this.
You should be able to identify the HID headlamps by heavy gauge cable (orange I think) coming off the projector housing.
Anyway, good luck and get 'em working soon - it makes the car look sooooo much better!
You should be able to identify the HID headlamps by heavy gauge cable (orange I think) coming off the projector housing.
Anyway, good luck and get 'em working soon - it makes the car look sooooo much better!
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From: Wherever I park my car, that's my home
Wiley
I can do it, but not for a couple of weeks, bit busy with work and family stuff.
Are your lights HiD, if so you'll need to buy some ballasts before I can start because I'll need to identify the connectors I need. If they are not HiD you don't need a ballast - UK spec are not HiD.

HiD will have the yellow warning sticker on the back of the bulb housing as in the picture above.
If they are HiD your fit will end up looking something like this...

These are nissan ballasts, so any will do if you have the connectors for them
I can do it, but not for a couple of weeks, bit busy with work and family stuff.
Are your lights HiD, if so you'll need to buy some ballasts before I can start because I'll need to identify the connectors I need. If they are not HiD you don't need a ballast - UK spec are not HiD.

HiD will have the yellow warning sticker on the back of the bulb housing as in the picture above.
If they are HiD your fit will end up looking something like this...

These are nissan ballasts, so any will do if you have the connectors for them
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From: Wherever I park my car, that's my home
If you can post or PM me a couple of pics of the connectors on the lights I can find out whether or not I'd need to order some connectors or whether I have something suitable in the garage.
It'll only cost whatever I need to buy. If I already have the stuff it's a gash spare so no problems giving the stuff away. It cost me about £10-15 for all the parts I used to do my HiD ones.
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From: Wherever I park my car, that's my home
Photobucket is blocked in work, so I'll have a look tonight and let you know the options. The connectors will come from the US, but even with the current poor exchange rate it'll be less than £20. I have everything else lying around in the garage.
Sorry to jump on the band wagon, but I'm in the same boat as wiley, was going to order the HID kit as I have just got a set of JDM STi HIDs.
Are you able to make you this loom, again, not a problem paying you the money for doing so.
Thanks
S!
Are you able to make you this loom, again, not a problem paying you the money for doing so.
Thanks
S!
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From: Wherever I park my car, that's my home
The only thing that can cause me problems is getting hold of the connectors. For non-HiD lights it's not too bad because the connectors are fairly standard, albeit not readily available in the UK except to traders for some reason, but the HiD connectors are a little more difficult. If you have the ballasts and the connectors with a length of wire coming from them, then yes I can do it.
Again, I can make the bracket to fix the ballast on to if I have the ballasts to shape the metal to. Part of my engineering background included some metal fabrication work and I have some spare ally in the garage of the same gauge I used to make mine.
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From: dagenham a13
sounds like your the expert jon, all i have is the headlights(uk xenon) and the original wiring that comes with a standard bugeye.
let me know or pm me with your contact details and i'll come have a chat with you soon
wiley
let me know or pm me with your contact details and i'll come have a chat with you soon
wiley
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From: Wherever I park my car, that's my home
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Jon,
Thanks for teh help here. I have the ballists and brackets, I've ben lucky with the kit that was for sale and everything was included.
I'll post up some pics shortly of what I have, unless you want to go through the email instead.
Thanks
S!
Thanks for teh help here. I have the ballists and brackets, I've ben lucky with the kit that was for sale and everything was included.
I'll post up some pics shortly of what I have, unless you want to go through the email instead.
Thanks
S!
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From: Wherever I park my car, that's my home
Once the pics are up I'll look through it tonight and work out what I need and what it'll cost for the parts I don't have and I'll PM you both
Wiley's lights are the UK HALOGEN units, so connectors needed to make up a loom are:
Male H4 connector to plug into the loom on the car,
Female HB3 connector to go into the dipped beam (halogen projectors)
Female H1 connector for the main beam
You will also find that if you just make a straight loom using the plugs mentioned above, the dipped beam will go out when the main beam is activated. You will need to put a relay in to take a switch signal when the main beam is on, and then feed the dipped beam so that both lamps go on.
Dont mind lending a hand with this, Im in Watford.
Mike
Male H4 connector to plug into the loom on the car,
Female HB3 connector to go into the dipped beam (halogen projectors)
Female H1 connector for the main beam
You will also find that if you just make a straight loom using the plugs mentioned above, the dipped beam will go out when the main beam is activated. You will need to put a relay in to take a switch signal when the main beam is on, and then feed the dipped beam so that both lamps go on.
Dont mind lending a hand with this, Im in Watford.
Mike
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From: Wherever I park my car, that's my home
Wiley's lights are the UK HALOGEN units, so connectors needed to make up a loom are:
Male H4 connector to plug into the loom on the car,
Female HB3 connector to go into the dipped beam (halogen projectors)
Female H1 connector for the main beam
You will also find that if you just make a straight loom using the plugs mentioned above, the dipped beam will go out when the main beam is activated. You will need to put a relay in to take a switch signal when the main beam is on, and then feed the dipped beam so that both lamps go on.
Dont mind lending a hand with this, Im in Watford.
Mike
Male H4 connector to plug into the loom on the car,
Female HB3 connector to go into the dipped beam (halogen projectors)
Female H1 connector for the main beam
You will also find that if you just make a straight loom using the plugs mentioned above, the dipped beam will go out when the main beam is activated. You will need to put a relay in to take a switch signal when the main beam is on, and then feed the dipped beam so that both lamps go on.
Dont mind lending a hand with this, Im in Watford.
Mike
Regarding having both lights on together, yes you can, but for cars with single bulbs (ie H4 as in the standard lights) when you switch on the high beam you switch off the main beam (yes I use different terminology for the beams, but that's what I'm used to). I think I have a couple of spare relays in the garage.
Once I have the connectors and I sort out the date with Wiley you're more than welcome to join the party. I'll PM you an address once we sort it out.
Regarding having both lights on together, yes you can, but for cars with single bulbs (ie H4 as in the standard lights) when you switch on the high beam you switch off the main beam (yes I use different terminology for the beams, but that's what I'm used to). I think I have a couple of spare relays in the garage.
I had a loom from the guy in Canada wrx-sti lights,and found out he done a loom where both lights stayed on when the high beam was used,no relays only difference i could see was that one connector was put to the chassis,will look at the weekend and do a diagram if you like.
I had a loom from the guy in Canada wrx-sti lights,and found out he done a loom where both lights stayed on when the high beam was used,no relays only difference i could see was that one connector was put to the chassis,will look at the weekend and do a diagram if you like.
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From: Wherever I park my car, that's my home
I had a loom from the guy in Canada wrx-sti lights,and found out he done a loom where both lights stayed on when the high beam was used,no relays only difference i could see was that one connector was put to the chassis,will look at the weekend and do a diagram if you like.
That's why you use high beam to switch spot lights on, but a via a relay to switch the power to the lights.
Safer, and probably more reliable, to add the second relay. Worst case from Halfrauds is £5 for a relay.
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