Is there a guide for fitting a 52mm gauge into the round heater vent?
07 March 2012, 01:45 PM
#3
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I have found this one which might tick all my boxes
http://elise-shop.com/high-precision...-p-502177.html
Boost
Oil Pressure
Oil temp
Voltage (which is a bonus)
All in one gauge which as its 60 mm will fit in the vent snugly compared to a 52mm one.
Any thoughts on this gauge?
07 March 2012, 03:29 PM
#4
Looks OK, but says it's 60mm, where you specified 52mm?
Make sure you get some adaptors if you want the oil pressure and temperature to work.
You need one to go in the tappings above cylinder No3 for the O/T, and MAYBE an extension/T-piece for the O/P sender, depending on it's size and if you want to retain the original, useless oil pressure warning light.
Another search on here will find lots of threads about gauge fittings.
DO NOT be tempted to use a so-called "sandwich plate"!
Make sure you get some adaptors if you want the oil pressure and temperature to work.
You need one to go in the tappings above cylinder No3 for the O/T, and MAYBE an extension/T-piece for the O/P sender, depending on it's size and if you want to retain the original, useless oil pressure warning light.
Another search on here will find lots of threads about gauge fittings.
DO NOT be tempted to use a so-called "sandwich plate"!
07 March 2012, 07:45 PM
#5
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Looks OK, but says it's 60mm, where you specified 52mm?
Make sure you get some adaptors if you want the oil pressure and temperature to work.
You need one to go in the tappings above cylinder No3 for the O/T, and MAYBE an extension/T-piece for the O/P sender, depending on it's size and if you want to retain the original, useless oil pressure warning light.
Another search on here will find lots of threads about gauge fittings.
DO NOT be tempted to use a so-called "sandwich plate"!
Make sure you get some adaptors if you want the oil pressure and temperature to work.
You need one to go in the tappings above cylinder No3 for the O/T, and MAYBE an extension/T-piece for the O/P sender, depending on it's size and if you want to retain the original, useless oil pressure warning light.
Another search on here will find lots of threads about gauge fittings.
DO NOT be tempted to use a so-called "sandwich plate"!
08 March 2012, 09:30 AM
#6
Be careful: it DOES say it comes with sensors, but WILL NOT have the necessary adaptors at that price.
Here's the one for the oil PRESSURE: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...All-Categories
You want the one with the long pipe on it, it's called a REMOTE adaptor.
Plenty on there at different prices. Second one down looks OK.
And I THINK this is your oil TEMP adpator: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Temper...item41533cc5b3
IIRC the threads in the Scoob block are M14, but someone will know if you ask. Open a new thread.
Here's the one for the oil PRESSURE: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...All-Categories
You want the one with the long pipe on it, it's called a REMOTE adaptor.
Plenty on there at different prices. Second one down looks OK.
And I THINK this is your oil TEMP adpator: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Temper...item41533cc5b3
IIRC the threads in the Scoob block are M14, but someone will know if you ask. Open a new thread.
08 March 2012, 09:54 AM
#7
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Or ring 0191 410 3770 and speak to Alyn at www.asperformance.com as he will have the correct parts on the shelf. 
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09 March 2012, 01:28 PM
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Be careful: it DOES say it comes with sensors, but WILL NOT have the necessary adaptors at that price.
Here's the one for the oil PRESSURE: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...All-Categories
You want the one with the long pipe on it, it's called a REMOTE adaptor.
Plenty on there at different prices. Second one down looks OK.
And I THINK this is your oil TEMP adpator: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Temper...item41533cc5b3
IIRC the threads in the Scoob block are M14, but someone will know if you ask. Open a new thread.
Here's the one for the oil PRESSURE: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...All-Categories
You want the one with the long pipe on it, it's called a REMOTE adaptor.
Plenty on there at different prices. Second one down looks OK.
And I THINK this is your oil TEMP adpator: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Temper...item41533cc5b3
IIRC the threads in the Scoob block are M14, but someone will know if you ask. Open a new thread.
10 March 2012, 03:41 AM
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If you can live without the stock oil warning light (useless, when it goes on the engine is toast already) you only need a remote pressure adapter.
This should ideally be fitted in place off the nr3 cilinder bung.
This can be removed, and a m18x1.5mm plug can be fitted, which has 1/8nptf threads inside to take the sender.The alternator bung (mentioned below) is ideal for this,and can be bought at any subaru dealer/breaker.
The temperature sender can then be placed under the alternator, where the useless idiot light sits as stock.
This should ideally be fitted in place off the nr3 cilinder bung.
This can be removed, and a m18x1.5mm plug can be fitted, which has 1/8nptf threads inside to take the sender.The alternator bung (mentioned below) is ideal for this,and can be bought at any subaru dealer/breaker.
The temperature sender can then be placed under the alternator, where the useless idiot light sits as stock.
10 March 2012, 09:17 AM
#12
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If you can live without the stock oil warning light (useless, when it goes on the engine is toast already) you only need a remote pressure adapter.
This should ideally be fitted in place off the nr3 cilinder bung.
This can be removed, and a m18x1.5mm plug can be fitted, which has 1/8nptf threads inside to take the sender.The alternator bung (mentioned below) is ideal for this,and can be bought at any subaru dealer/breaker.
The temperature sender can then be placed under the alternator, where the useless idiot light sits as stock.
This should ideally be fitted in place off the nr3 cilinder bung.
This can be removed, and a m18x1.5mm plug can be fitted, which has 1/8nptf threads inside to take the sender.The alternator bung (mentioned below) is ideal for this,and can be bought at any subaru dealer/breaker.
The temperature sender can then be placed under the alternator, where the useless idiot light sits as stock.
Temp sensor above No. 3, and oil pressure from the OE sensor outlet.
10 March 2012, 10:48 AM
#13
If you can live without the stock oil warning light (useless, when it goes on the engine is toast already) you only need a remote pressure adapter.
This should ideally be fitted in place off the nr3 cilinder bung.
This can be removed, and a m18x1.5mm plug can be fitted, which has 1/8nptf threads inside to take the sender.The alternator bung (mentioned below) is ideal for this,and can be bought at any subaru dealer/breaker.
The temperature sender can then be placed under the alternator, where the useless idiot light sits as stock.
This should ideally be fitted in place off the nr3 cilinder bung.
This can be removed, and a m18x1.5mm plug can be fitted, which has 1/8nptf threads inside to take the sender.The alternator bung (mentioned below) is ideal for this,and can be bought at any subaru dealer/breaker.
The temperature sender can then be placed under the alternator, where the useless idiot light sits as stock.
I wish people who give advice would get their facts right, or check their typing:
The PRESSURE sender goes where the OE pressure switch was, under the alternator, the TEMPERATURE sender goes in the tappings above cylinder No3, NOT the other way round.
10 March 2012, 07:55 PM
#14
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He's got an excuse though, Jeff. He is Dutch after all.
His typing and spelling is much better than some that, somehow, manage to post on SN.
His typing and spelling is much better than some that, somehow, manage to post on SN.
10 March 2012, 08:04 PM
#15
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I believe you can fit them both ways, only make sure the temperature sender is in the block directly, not connected to a hose.
The pressure sender can be in both places as well, and can be mounted into the block directly, or via a hose.
Normally a temperature sender is smaller, and can fit in both places, the pressure sender is quite bulky and most of them need a hose with adapter to mount them away from the block.
The pressure sender can be in both places as well, and can be mounted into the block directly, or via a hose.
Normally a temperature sender is smaller, and can fit in both places, the pressure sender is quite bulky and most of them need a hose with adapter to mount them away from the block.
11 March 2012, 12:59 PM
#16
Nice try bud: if it was the case that they are interchangeable places, how come Subaru didn't put the pressure switch into the block tappings? To save on wiring?
Also, those tappings are there BECAUSE cylinder No3 runs hottest, so is the one to monitor........Subaru know that, so put them there.
Also, those tappings are there BECAUSE cylinder No3 runs hottest, so is the one to monitor........Subaru know that, so put them there.
11 March 2012, 04:37 PM
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Subaru probably mounts the idiot light in the front for ease of replacement.
In my opinion they never considered any hole in the casing to have any other usage then their own (for machining/inspection/assembly of the block in the factory)
It is indeed a fact that nr3 runs hotter, but do you think that the 12 inches of oilpassages between the nr3 cilinder bung and the alternator bung makes any reasonable difference in measured oil temperature??
If that is the case we should measure oil not in whole numbers but in 1 or 2 decimals behind the comma, and nobody does that.
It's the same with a coolant crossover pipe, that has a casting spot right next to the factory sender that can be drilled and tapped for a coolant temperature gauge)
This is not some added bonus FHI made to enable people to fit an aftermarket gauge, but just a result of the production proces.
That people unbolt blanking plugs to fit a gauge (as a ring adapter is a reasonably viable alternative) is NOT something FHI ever considered people would do.
But it can be done, and in my opinion it can be done in both ways.
In my opinion they never considered any hole in the casing to have any other usage then their own (for machining/inspection/assembly of the block in the factory)
It is indeed a fact that nr3 runs hotter, but do you think that the 12 inches of oilpassages between the nr3 cilinder bung and the alternator bung makes any reasonable difference in measured oil temperature??
If that is the case we should measure oil not in whole numbers but in 1 or 2 decimals behind the comma, and nobody does that.
It's the same with a coolant crossover pipe, that has a casting spot right next to the factory sender that can be drilled and tapped for a coolant temperature gauge)
This is not some added bonus FHI made to enable people to fit an aftermarket gauge, but just a result of the production proces.
That people unbolt blanking plugs to fit a gauge (as a ring adapter is a reasonably viable alternative) is NOT something FHI ever considered people would do.
But it can be done, and in my opinion it can be done in both ways.
11 March 2012, 06:41 PM
#18
Subaru probably mounts the idiot light in the front for ease of replacement.
In my opinion they never considered any hole in the casing to have any other usage then their own (for machining/inspection/assembly of the block in the factory)
It is indeed a fact that nr3 runs hotter, but do you think that the 12 inches of oilpassages between the nr3 cilinder bung and the alternator bung makes any reasonable difference in measured oil temperature??
If that is the case we should measure oil not in whole numbers but in 1 or 2 decimals behind the comma, and nobody does that.
It's the same with a coolant crossover pipe, that has a casting spot right next to the factory sender that can be drilled and tapped for a coolant temperature gauge)
This is not some added bonus FHI made to enable people to fit an aftermarket gauge, but just a result of the production proces.
That people unbolt blanking plugs to fit a gauge (as a ring adapter is a reasonably viable alternative) is NOT something FHI ever considered people would do.
But it can be done, and in my opinion it can be done in both ways.
In my opinion they never considered any hole in the casing to have any other usage then their own (for machining/inspection/assembly of the block in the factory)
It is indeed a fact that nr3 runs hotter, but do you think that the 12 inches of oilpassages between the nr3 cilinder bung and the alternator bung makes any reasonable difference in measured oil temperature??
If that is the case we should measure oil not in whole numbers but in 1 or 2 decimals behind the comma, and nobody does that.
It's the same with a coolant crossover pipe, that has a casting spot right next to the factory sender that can be drilled and tapped for a coolant temperature gauge)
This is not some added bonus FHI made to enable people to fit an aftermarket gauge, but just a result of the production proces.
That people unbolt blanking plugs to fit a gauge (as a ring adapter is a reasonably viable alternative) is NOT something FHI ever considered people would do.
But it can be done, and in my opinion it can be done in both ways.
Unless you can supply evidence that says, incontrovertibly, that Subaru never meant anyone to use those tappings they put in as an "inspection point" (
), then I'm sorry, but I'll stick to what I've been told.PRESSURE sender at front, TEMPERATURE sender over No3 cylinder.
Just admit you typed it wrong and let it go at that: we'll let you off, you are normally correct.
11 March 2012, 08:24 PM
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I won't, normally, but to please you I will.
I do however genuinely believe it makes no difference where one puts either sender, as long as one realizes that a hose type extension/adapter will only work for pressure, not for temperature.
As a temperature sender is usually smaller it makes more sense to me to fit that below the alternator, and use a hose type extension on the nr3 position for the pressure.
That sender is usually to large to physically fit under the alternator, so would require an extension anyway.
So putting the temperature sender under the alternator, and the pressure sender @ the nr3 bung via a adapter hose is:
-cheaper (requires only 1 hose adapter, ideally with a thread that fits directly into the m18x1.5 tapped hole in the block
-safer, as there are less things that can leak.
The other way round would require more parts, thus more chance of leakage.
That I typed "machining/inspection/assembly" was just to put out a few options to account for the nr3 bung, as that IMO has to be there for some other reason then to provide us with a handy point to put a oil related gauge.
I do however genuinely believe it makes no difference where one puts either sender, as long as one realizes that a hose type extension/adapter will only work for pressure, not for temperature.
As a temperature sender is usually smaller it makes more sense to me to fit that below the alternator, and use a hose type extension on the nr3 position for the pressure.
That sender is usually to large to physically fit under the alternator, so would require an extension anyway.
So putting the temperature sender under the alternator, and the pressure sender @ the nr3 bung via a adapter hose is:
-cheaper (requires only 1 hose adapter, ideally with a thread that fits directly into the m18x1.5 tapped hole in the block
-safer, as there are less things that can leak.
The other way round would require more parts, thus more chance of leakage.
That I typed "machining/inspection/assembly" was just to put out a few options to account for the nr3 bung, as that IMO has to be there for some other reason then to provide us with a handy point to put a oil related gauge.
16 March 2012, 12:01 AM
#21
Cheers i have searched for the thread and seen a night shot of the gauge.
I have found this one which might tick all my boxes
http://elise-shop.com/high-precision...-p-502177.html
Boost
Oil Pressure
Oil temp
Voltage (which is a bonus)
All in one gauge which as its 60 mm will fit in the vent snugly compared to a 52mm one.
Any thoughts on this gauge?
I have found this one which might tick all my boxes
http://elise-shop.com/high-precision...-p-502177.html
Boost
Oil Pressure
Oil temp
Voltage (which is a bonus)
All in one gauge which as its 60 mm will fit in the vent snugly compared to a 52mm one.
Any thoughts on this gauge?
16 March 2012, 05:23 AM
#22
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Depo-Racing-.../dp/B006763GJI
Jura
16 March 2012, 07:59 AM
#23
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Similar to this from Elise shop doing too Depo racing
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Depo-Racing-.../dp/B006763GJI
Jura
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Depo-Racing-.../dp/B006763GJI
Jura
17 April 2012, 11:48 AM
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Similar to this from Elise shop doing too Depo racing
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Depo-Racing-.../dp/B006763GJI
Jura
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Depo-Racing-.../dp/B006763GJI
Jura
Delivered for £94 - boost, oil pressure / temp and volts all in one.
Just scouring the net at the moments for any images / help for fitting into the air vent before i end up pulling my dash apart.
Pete
17 April 2012, 05:49 PM
#29
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I am not too keen on the a pillar option , I originally wanted the air vent option as its much more OE looking. I thought with the single pod I could tuck it away right in the corner of the dash.
What setup do you have jeff? Pics?
What setup do you have jeff? Pics?
17 April 2012, 09:31 PM
#30
I've got three 60mm defis in a pod where the trinket tray was on top of the dash, but am currently looking at maybe getting a slightly snazzier pod. The one I have matches, but isn't the prettiest: 
It's the pic that leans slightly, not the gauges LOL
I also have two 52mm ones in an A-pillar pod from Area 52, again, a nice match, but no pics.
It's the pic that leans slightly, not the gauges
LOLI also have two 52mm ones in an A-pillar pod from Area 52, again, a nice match, but no pics.