sti-chris

So the standard set up in out subaru's are just the worst ever.

Tin Can Radio come's to mind.

A bit history in my old STi many years ago I fitted some diamond audio front components with tweeters in the doors an Ultimate DLS A5 3 channel amplifier
with 2x 12" Diamond subs in the boot and a pioneer single din head unit.

The sound was very good and I spent a lot of money on the bits.

So Now Id like to fit something half decent in my 2005 WT JDM but not over board like I did before, This is only a weekend car but the standard stereo is just pitiful.

Been away from this for so long that I'm not sure where to start but to ask the right questions to the right people

What would be recommended these days as a nice set of front components that will fit without having to hack up the doors, would a head unit be enough or should an amp and sub be needed to get the best out of it.

Id like a head unit to work with my iphone, don't care about sat nav or hands free more on sound and quality.

I have not set a budget I'm open to ideas and see where it takes me, Id rather not spend what I did before but then my car was every day transport so was well enjoyed

sti-chris

any one ?

ZANY

You'd be much happier with a blitz nur spec exhaust system much more satisfying than music or bass

But on a serious note I'd be getting the alpine Ilx-700 as I have an iPhone aswell

this is on my last to do things maybe next year bring SIRI. alive

Here's an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122275984227

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Need a budget really. Are we talking 3 figures or 4?

sti-chris

I think Id like to start with getting rid of the speaker set up, Ideally a set of components and tweeters, I'm not a fan of fitting onto the pillars or dash so preferably tweeters that can go in the door card where the OE ones are situated at present.

I don't want to spend 4 figures again on sound but Id like to have something that's enjoyable.

I don't need a mega fancy HU but something with enough EQ to make it sound decent and good outputs to feed an amp or amp's dependant if a sub should have a dedicated amp.

In my head I'm thinking components up front with tweeters, forget about the rear door speakers just disconnect them, a punchy sub in the boot.

Im not sure what size of speakers I can get away with in the door's or if good kits are available as a starting point.

I will do all this work myself so I don't need to worry about install costs.

LoganS

iTrader: (1)

When I upgraded mine on a budget I used vibe black air 6 components for the front and vibe slick 4 for the rear.. All from Halfords.

The rears went straight in but I used corsa c speaker adapters on the fronts because of the depth of the door, there was space for the crossovers to sit in the bottom of the door. I just used some double sided number plate tape to stick them in and stop them moving about.

I think most 1" tweeters will fit in the door card, you should be able to use the metal bracket bits they come with, or bodge it with some more double sided number plate tape.

Obviously not the best speakers, but they weren't bad. At least you can find sizes for them online to see what other speakers are similar sizes.

As for the head unit, when you take yours out I would suggest taking the silver trim in to a car audio shop and checking a new head unit will fit without having to cut it down, as some of the double dins are too big. to fit in place of your old HU.

keep the brackets off the sides of your old HU as you will need them to fit the new one.

And if you go for a single din then you get the silver storage pockets for about £20 to fill the gap.

sti-chris

Thanks Logan, Do you remember the size of speakers you fitted to the front and what depth you managed to get away with, I want to maximise the size of speaker to get the best out of it.

I thought we might have had more audio gurus lurking on the site.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Read this first to save me typing it all out again.

https://www.scoobynet.com/ice-2/1040...r-upgrade.html

Then I'll try and answer any specific questions.

LoganS

iTrader: (1)

Very thorough thread TECHNOPLUG, good work.

I know my speakers where 165mm diameter, but I don't know about the depth, I read about depth issues so just got the adapters and used them.

it's not too difficult to remove your door card, you will have to do it to fit the speakers anyway, so you could take one off and poke a tape measure in to check the depth, or just choose some speakers the same diameter and use adapters.

TECHNOPLUG definitely sounds like the guru with this stuff though.

sti-chris

Okay Good read, whats your views on using a 3 channel amp where I can use 2 for the fronts and the 3rd channel for a sub.

My last install used a DLS A5 amplifier which accommodated this feature.

http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_1038

fairly sure I ran it all down at 4 ohms.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

I'm using these http://www.audison.eu/index.php?page=product&id=34

Which have about the biggest magnets you can get and are 69mm deep. I had to space them out from the door in such a way that the Big cards wouldn't fit. So I swapped to the later Blob/Hawkeye ones. So as long as the mounting depth is less than 69mm, you should be fine.

Definitely try and fit the 6" over the 5.25" speakers. Makes a big difference and only requires a little trimming with a Dremel.

sti-chris

Okay so I'm happy to trim a little with the dremel, will my blob jdm have the same larger accommodating door cards you mention, what about spacers are those required?

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Personally, I would use a separate mono amp for the sub. It's not much more work to install a second (or third amp), you can run a high-powered mono amp for not much money and it will perform better. Also, think about where you are going to fit them. A multi-channel amp will naturally be bigger than 2 individual ones, so you might have issues as to where to put it. For example, I've got 3 amps but all quite small. 1 under each front seat and 1 in the boot. If I had a big multi-channel, it may not fit under the seats.

A multi-channel amp will work fine but there are the above things to consider.

The most important aspect in my experience is Time Alignment/Correction. Most decent HUs have this feature now and it's the difference between spending a fortune on Ohlins suspension yet run stock alignment, versus using Prodrive alignment settings, for example. If you are spending any decent sort of money, then you should definitely try to take advantage of this feature.

It's important to understand what you need with regards to crossovers/filters and that will determine what HU/Amp combo you buy. You'll need 3 RCA outputs from the HU, as the TA is controlled via the HU. So each set of speakers (Hi/Mid/Sub) receive their own signal. You can either use a separate amp for each set of speakers (as I have done) or you can use a multi-channel amp, providing there is a separate input for each channel.

Next you need to look at the crossovers/filters. On the Alpine iLX-700 that was linked earlier for example, it has 3 RCA outputs and TA but the crossovers/filters are only in the 20-200hz range. Which is fine for and full range speakers but for the tweeters, you'd want 1.25khz and above. You wouldn't be able to use passive crossovers that come with a Comps kit, as you'd then be splitting 1 signal into 2, so you wouldn't be able to properly use TA. However, in this scenario, you'd need to look for amps that have built in filters for each channel, that can do the work if a HU can only send a full signal.

If you get a HU that has a full range of filters, then you don't need that feature in the amps and you can get cheaper ones (or better for the same cash) The ability to tailor the frequency signal is particularly important in Imprezas as the doors are so thin. I went to town on sound deadening but I still can't drop my comps below 125hz, as there is too much vibration. Another reason why you should get a sub.

Of course you can simply fit a 2.1 system, Mid/Tweeters in the front with passive crossovers and a sub in the back. You could run all that from a single amp and it would be a big improvement. Especially if you just want LOUD. But a little bit of time spent designing the system will reap big rewards. If you go from stock, to simple 2.1 then you'll probably be very happy and think it sounds great. Until you hear another set up that has been properly tuned...

As I say, it's akin to replacing your stock suspension with KWVs and a big ARBs and thinking it a huge improvement. Then driving a car that's been corner-weighted and has adjustable camber and a custom alignment done.

Finally, if you want to save money, buy second hand. Amps in particular are a great secondhand buy if they can be demonstrated, as generally they either work of they don't. And there hasn't been a huge amount of technical progress in the last 30 years. I bought all my speakers and 3 amps from here and probably spent less than 40% of the retail price, had I bought everything new.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

The trimming will depend upon the speakers. If you look at the image of mine, you'll see that they have support bars running from the cone to the magnet. The standard hole wouldn't accommodate them without a little trimming. http://www.audison.eu/index.php?page=product&id=34

But other speakers will fit.

The issue with the Bug cards is that the slop into the card at the top, limiting the amount of room/size of speaker you can fit. The later door cards have a pronounced circular speaker cover which is the same depth from top to bottom. It will be obvious which ones you have. Door cards are a straight swap across models but you'll need the door/window switches also.

You'll need to MDF rings to mounts the speakers for sure. Install is everything. Just chucking speakers in plastic rings is a total waste of money. You can possible buy ready cut rings or make some yourself using the stock speakers as templates. Give them a lick of paint afterwards so they don't rot. One thing I did wrong in mine is using the stock 3 mounting holes to screw to. If I was doing it again, I'd drill some new holes and bolt the spacers through the doors.

I can't guarantee what will or won't fit I'm afraid. I can only go from my experiences. This was the first proper build I did, so it was all trial and error. Speakers were too big - had to trim door. Cards wouldn't fit - had to get later ones. HU/Amp didn't have suitable filters - had to get different HU. Etc.

That's why it's important to decide what you want and design the system first, to ensure all the components compliment each other.

I referred to this site a lot. http://www.bcae1.com/ Tells you everything you could possibly need to know. There is a very good interactive calculator, where you enter all you component details and it tell you which gauge of cable to use, fuses etc. Invaluable.

sti-chris

What an awesome write up, I'm going to go over it again more carefully and make some decisions on your input.

I never thought of used but to be honest your right If I can save a bit money on amps and maybe a HU then happy life happy wife if you know what I mean.

So like you have said the important part is the HU filtering to separate the T-M-B

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to put the classifieds link https://www.talkstuff.net/ipb/index.php/classifieds/

If you have the time & patience to attempt the install yourself, then it's hugely satisfying the first time it's setup and you play a favourite tune. You could of course get a specialist to do the work if you find it a little daunting. They'd be able to advise as well but you would of course be paying a reasonable premium for outsourcing the work.

sti-chris

What do you think about this HU ?

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/head...d-media-access

fawor

iTrader: (3)

Buy pioneer psr80 plus bi-amp front speakers and amp.
Monoblock amp plus sub job done

sti-chris

yep the 80PRS is an awesome looking HD at £270, more than my budget

Well if I want to keep my wife that is

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

It's OK. Depends what you are trying to achieve and what other components you will pair with it.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

What's you total budget?

sti-chris

I don't really have a specific budget, If I go in stages then it will not look so bad on the bank, Ideal lets say I want a HD and some speakers in the front doors with new tweeter, I will get that stage out the way and then go for an amp and sub.

So firstly if you can recommend a HU that will do the job and some fronts.

Oh this is my door cards, you said go for 6" are those the right door cards you said accommodates the larger speakers.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Yes those are the right door cards.

By all means go in stages but decide what you ultimately want first. Then you can make sure you by the right components and not get caught having the wrong gear when you go to the next stage. The you have to buy twice.

What final system do you want, then it will be easier to advise what to get and in what order.

sti-chris

So Id happily pay £150 for a head unit and Id expect to pay the same for from fronts and tweeters.

If I can find a good condition used HD I wouldn't mind.

My car is only something that's for the weekends and will get used more in the summer.

I would like a nice crisp clean sound with decent bass and I do like to play my music loud.

To give you an example my Audi has a B&O sound system and for factory sound its very good, in fact its really good.

Single or double din make not a massive difference to me its really what works, and I do have the benefit that Id comfortably fit this myself so no installation costs.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

If you don't need a CD player, this is a better buy: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-ide-178bt-3144

In fact, I'd only look at Alpine at your price point. The 80PRS is great and I have one myself. It's a lot for the money but it's also the only real audiophile unit you can get without spending silly money. I wouldn't bother with any of the other cheaper Pioneer units, they don't share any of the features of the 80PRS which is basically a separate brand.

All the mid-price Alpines though seem to have decent system specs. Multi RCAs, 3 way active crossovers, Time Correction etc. They would be a much better basis to build a system around as you can expand further as they provide far greater options and support.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Does it need to play CDs or would you be OK with mechless?

sti-chris

MP3's would be fine to be honest, So long as it can be loaded up with play lists and digital audio files.

Having taken a look at the Alpine , I see it can work of Ipod ETC which i have quite a few of spare doing nothing.
So that type of system could work.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpi...with-bluetooth

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpi...oth-tuneit-app

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/head...-bluetooth-dab

Any of those.

sti-chris

So Dab Radio on the Alpine UTE-93DAB looks like the main difference.

what you think?

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Look for things like WAV/FLAC compatibility, ipod display/control, rear USB etc any other things which you may want. They all have the same specs as far as audio output, adjustability and integration from what I can see.