some advice on a new stereo and speakers
14 May 2017, 08:41 PM
#64
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Oh yes 65 mm, Okay I done a quick search and the reviews on those look to be good, Never heard of them before. Have you had any experience with those ?
16 May 2017, 12:10 PM
#67
I didn't realise that the Prima speakers only come with a passive filter for the tweeters and not a crossover for the woofers too. Personally, I would let the HU do all the work as it has the ability to set digitial crossovers, time alignment etc. In which case you need either a pair of amps or a 4-channel amp that has 2 input channels.
Alternatively, you can try it with one amp first of all and just run it with the passive set up, then add a second amp later and go active. Just means more time repeating an install.
Alternatively, you can try it with one amp first of all and just run it with the passive set up, then add a second amp later and go active. Just means more time repeating an install.
16 May 2017, 12:14 PM
#68
I'd look for a minimum of a true 70w rms. But the more the better, as the amp will sound better at lower volumes, relative to it's output. Anything upto 150w per channel will be fine. Quality over quantity when it comes to amps and power though. You don't need to pay extra for lots of fancy features as your HU can run everything.
16 May 2017, 03:18 PM
#70
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Do you think I should pick up a cross over to take care of the tweeters?
not sure what to pay on an amp ? would a few hundred quid get something decent ?
not sure what to pay on an amp ? would a few hundred quid get something decent ?
16 May 2017, 03:35 PM
#71
They come with a passive hi-pass filter for the tweeters. However, there is nothing for the woofer. No hi or low-pass filter. It's just going to receive the full range. Normally you would expect to have a crossover, where you input the signal (from HU/amp) and then it splits it into 2 - one for highs and one for lows.
As I say, your HU has 3 digital crossovers built in, so I'd just let take care of everything. Simpler to control and setup, less components interferring with the signal path etc. If you want a single amp, you need a 4 channel one, that has 2 inputs (for both sets of speakers) and separate gain control for each pair of channels. You don't have to worry about filters or EQ or anything else on the amp - the HU can control everything. Or you can mix and match and get 2 separate 2 channel amps. The tweeters will require far less power than the woofers.
£300 to £400 is the sweet spot for good 4-channel amps but you can spend less. Second hand amps are the best way to save money on a system, as generally they either work or they don't. And as you don't need any fancy features, you can pick up some great older kit with basic functions (compared to new stuff) for bargains.
As I say, your HU has 3 digital crossovers built in, so I'd just let take care of everything. Simpler to control and setup, less components interferring with the signal path etc. If you want a single amp, you need a 4 channel one, that has 2 inputs (for both sets of speakers) and separate gain control for each pair of channels. You don't have to worry about filters or EQ or anything else on the amp - the HU can control everything. Or you can mix and match and get 2 separate 2 channel amps. The tweeters will require far less power than the woofers.
£300 to £400 is the sweet spot for good 4-channel amps but you can spend less. Second hand amps are the best way to save money on a system, as generally they either work or they don't. And as you don't need any fancy features, you can pick up some great older kit with basic functions (compared to new stuff) for bargains.
19 May 2017, 08:46 PM
#72
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Okay So this is where we are at today, Some Nice speakers have arrived all the way from Italy. * True Story *
I cant tell you how keen I was to go out and whip of the door cars to fit these. However taking all the advice on board I want to do this right as half the battle is the install.
What I want to know is should I be covering the Door panels with a sound proofing material and If so how much of the panels get covered ? what is a recommended material?
I am on the look out for a Genesis Profile Four amplifier but pickings are thin for a used one and I can't justify buying brand new, So maybe to broaden the list of amplifiers would any other brand type or model be worth considering?
Finally I am going to cut up my own speaker rings, I have a sheet of MDF and also a sheet of Plywood in the garage, does it matter what wood I cut the rings from ? What ever I use I was planning on a bit paint to seal them from the elements.
I cant tell you how keen I was to go out and whip of the door cars to fit these. However taking all the advice on board I want to do this right as half the battle is the install.
What I want to know is should I be covering the Door panels with a sound proofing material and If so how much of the panels get covered ? what is a recommended material?
I am on the look out for a Genesis Profile Four amplifier but pickings are thin for a used one and I can't justify buying brand new, So maybe to broaden the list of amplifiers would any other brand type or model be worth considering?
Finally I am going to cut up my own speaker rings, I have a sheet of MDF and also a sheet of Plywood in the garage, does it matter what wood I cut the rings from ? What ever I use I was planning on a bit paint to seal them from the elements.
Last edited by sti-chris; 03 March 2021 at 09:44 PM.
21 May 2017, 10:43 AM
#76
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I'm going to let the HU take care of the splitting up of the frequency's as it has 3 digital crossovers built in.
The function of the Amp in my case is only to take the raw signal from the HU to drive the Speakers.
The function of the Amp in my case is only to take the raw signal from the HU to drive the Speakers.
22 May 2017, 09:46 AM
#77
Seen this amp which looks good, cant find a massive amount on reviews.
comments ?
http://caraudiosecurity.com/rainbow-...plifier-271046
comments ?
http://caraudiosecurity.com/rainbow-...plifier-271046
22 May 2017, 10:01 AM
#78
What I want to know is should I be covering the Door panels with a sound proofing material and If so how much of the panels get covered ? what is a recommended material?
Finally I am going to cut up my own speaker rings, I have a sheet of MDF and also a sheet of Plywood in the garage, does it matter what wood I cut the rings from ? What ever I use I was planning on a bit paint to seal them from the elements.
However, in practie, you are better trying to cover as much as possible. Special attention to sealing the door as much as possible, especially the large open space at the bottom. A sturdy wall paper roller will help. As will doing it on a warm day. When you've finished the doors should close with a reassuring 80's Merc thud.
I reckon 4/5 sheets per door. Buy in bulk, cheaper in the long run and you don't want to run out and stop half way. I did the floor also when I had the carpet up. Not sure how much diffference it made - really needs a layer of isolator on top to have big benefits. Worth doing the doorcards too if you have any left over.
Use 12mm MDF for the speaker rings and paint them as you say. Id also fit some rain stops, to protect the speakers further. One thing that I regret when I fitted mine, was using the original 3 holes to screw the rings too. I think in hindsight, I would drill new hoes through the rings and door and the bolt them on. Would be more solid I'm sure.
23 May 2017, 04:33 PM
#79
I thought I had taken some photos but it appears not. I mounted each amp onto a piece of wood, that I had covered in carpet. You can then screw the amp to this as well as thee distribution blocks and secure the cabling to it also. They are not physically attached to the car but they can't really move about as they sit between the seat mounts.
For wiring, I'd buy the parts individually rather than a kit. I would suggest you want 4awg power and ground cable. But check the calculator further down. That should give you enough headroom for any future amps. Use a fused distribution block http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/acce...d-distribution then wire the battery to this (with a fuse as close to the battery as possible). Then you can use 8agw (check amp) to the amp with a suitable fuse. This was, if you want to add additional amps in future, you just need to route a cable to the distribution blocks, rather than the battery.
Do the same with the grounds as well as you want the all to connect to the chassis at the same point. http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/acce...ibution-blocks.
Use this tool to calculate what thickness cable and fuses to use: http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
It will depend upon what size your amp is, as to whether you have room to mount the distribution blocks and amp all together under the same seat. You'll have to get creative or consider how many other amps you may install in future.
I routed my power cable into the drivers side, behind the turbo and then past the clutch pedal and along the door sill. I mounted both distribution blocks onto the board with the amp, on the side closest to the door. This meant I could run a very short length of ground cable to earth it to the seat belt mounting bolt.
For the RCA cables and speaker wire, I ran it on top of the transmission tunnel so that it connected via the opposite side to the power cable, to the front of the amp - so as to avoid intereference. It's quite easy to run the speaker cable back this way to the centre console and then split it behind the dash to the door speakers.
If you add another amp under the passenger seat, just run the power/ground cables out the back of the drivers seat and over the transmission tunnel, so again to avoid interference. You can then add a 3rd or 4th amp in the boot and run the power/ground cables along the rear drivers sill to the boot. The remote wires for the amps don't have such an issue, so you can just daisy chain them from one amp to another.
You'll need to take the seats and carpet up to do it properly (and make some cuts to the carpet too). However, it you use distribution blocks, it means you should only have to do it once, should you wish to expand your system in future. I'd add also, that I'd route 3 RCA cables (of enough length to reach the boot corner) whilst your at it, just to future proof the build
Simples...
For wiring, I'd buy the parts individually rather than a kit. I would suggest you want 4awg power and ground cable. But check the calculator further down. That should give you enough headroom for any future amps. Use a fused distribution block http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/acce...d-distribution then wire the battery to this (with a fuse as close to the battery as possible). Then you can use 8agw (check amp) to the amp with a suitable fuse. This was, if you want to add additional amps in future, you just need to route a cable to the distribution blocks, rather than the battery.
Do the same with the grounds as well as you want the all to connect to the chassis at the same point. http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/acce...ibution-blocks.
Use this tool to calculate what thickness cable and fuses to use: http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
It will depend upon what size your amp is, as to whether you have room to mount the distribution blocks and amp all together under the same seat. You'll have to get creative or consider how many other amps you may install in future.
I routed my power cable into the drivers side, behind the turbo and then past the clutch pedal and along the door sill. I mounted both distribution blocks onto the board with the amp, on the side closest to the door. This meant I could run a very short length of ground cable to earth it to the seat belt mounting bolt.
For the RCA cables and speaker wire, I ran it on top of the transmission tunnel so that it connected via the opposite side to the power cable, to the front of the amp - so as to avoid intereference. It's quite easy to run the speaker cable back this way to the centre console and then split it behind the dash to the door speakers.
If you add another amp under the passenger seat, just run the power/ground cables out the back of the drivers seat and over the transmission tunnel, so again to avoid interference. You can then add a 3rd or 4th amp in the boot and run the power/ground cables along the rear drivers sill to the boot. The remote wires for the amps don't have such an issue, so you can just daisy chain them from one amp to another.
You'll need to take the seats and carpet up to do it properly (and make some cuts to the carpet too). However, it you use distribution blocks, it means you should only have to do it once, should you wish to expand your system in future. I'd add also, that I'd route 3 RCA cables (of enough length to reach the boot corner) whilst your at it, just to future proof the build
Simples...
29 May 2017, 07:21 PM
#81
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Okay so a short update, Been busy with a few other things.
I now have a Genesis profile 4 amp along with the above speakers. I cut some rings from Plywood and gave them a quick paint.
The sound deadening pads have also arrived.
I need to order some cable to power the lot up and 3x set RCA phono's along with a termination block As I think I will mount the amp in the boot space and It will make it easier to access and so forth.
Then when I add a sub all cables are in place ready to accommodate.
I now have a Genesis profile 4 amp along with the above speakers. I cut some rings from Plywood and gave them a quick paint.
The sound deadening pads have also arrived.
I need to order some cable to power the lot up and 3x set RCA phono's along with a termination block As I think I will mount the amp in the boot space and It will make it easier to access and so forth.
Then when I add a sub all cables are in place ready to accommodate.
04 June 2017, 07:09 PM
#82
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Right So I now have bought the cable i need to get this all up and running, I was going to remove the seats and trim today but got side tracked and ended up taking it out for a run.
I will get a start on this hopeful this week weather dependant.
Technopug - a heads up I gather than during the install I will be running back a cable from each tweeter and each front speaker forgetting about the Hi pass filter to the amp location?
I will get a start on this hopeful this week weather dependant.
Technopug - a heads up I gather than during the install I will be running back a cable from each tweeter and each front speaker forgetting about the Hi pass filter to the amp location?
04 June 2017, 08:10 PM
#83
Yes for running active you want all the filters turned off on the amp. I presume that you can turn each output off via the head unit? If not, just plug the tweeter rca into the amp first, then set the gain. Then repeat for the mids. You'll need to download some test tones. And decide on crossover and octaves. You should aim for a butterworth filter. Does it have auto eq and or auto timing?
Last edited by TECHNOPUG; 04 June 2017 at 08:12 PM.
05 June 2017, 04:39 PM
#85
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
05 June 2017, 08:49 PM
#88
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
It does have a microphone however I feel its only for the Hands free.
Great on the help, Typical Scottish summer weather pi$$ing with Rain.
Great on the help, Typical Scottish summer weather pi$$ing with Rain.