Cam belt separate tensioner pulley
20 April 2013, 07:53 PM
#1
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Cam belt separate tensioner pulley
I've just changed the cam belt on my 1994 jap import turbo impreza engine.
I am a bit confused on the separate tensioner and pulley, i bolted in place and fitted the cam belt then i pulled the pin out of the separate tensioner and it didnt appear to adjust much. So i loosened the pulley bolt and retightened the bolt, with this action the tensioner plunger moved out 12mm or so and it looks more or less correct.
Is this how its done? And in a few more thoughsand miles do i have to do it again? The plunger only moved out when i loosened the pulley bolt off (it has that spacer tube in it) when i re torqued the pulley it didnt look like it would adjust up again automatically unless i loosened it off again.
Right or not ?
I am a bit confused on the separate tensioner and pulley, i bolted in place and fitted the cam belt then i pulled the pin out of the separate tensioner and it didnt appear to adjust much. So i loosened the pulley bolt and retightened the bolt, with this action the tensioner plunger moved out 12mm or so and it looks more or less correct.
Is this how its done? And in a few more thoughsand miles do i have to do it again? The plunger only moved out when i loosened the pulley bolt off (it has that spacer tube in it) when i re torqued the pulley it didnt look like it would adjust up again automatically unless i loosened it off again.
Right or not ?
20 April 2013, 10:16 PM
#2
Common problem when the pulley is sticking/not moving freely/ nackered.
The eccentric pulley should move freely without the timing belt on - make sure the lug on the back of it ( which the tensioner rod pushes against ) is not fouling on anything and the bearing in the pulley is not worn.
You should not have to 're-adjust' the pulley or tensioner once fitted - have seen several engine's destroyed when the belt has jumped because of a jammed tensioner pulley.
Mick
The eccentric pulley should move freely without the timing belt on - make sure the lug on the back of it ( which the tensioner rod pushes against ) is not fouling on anything and the bearing in the pulley is not worn.
You should not have to 're-adjust' the pulley or tensioner once fitted - have seen several engine's destroyed when the belt has jumped because of a jammed tensioner pulley.
Mick
21 April 2013, 08:37 AM
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Common problem when the pulley is sticking/not moving freely/ nackered.
The eccentric pulley should move freely without the timing belt on - make sure the lug on the back of it ( which the tensioner rod pushes against ) is not fouling on anything and the bearing in the pulley is not worn.
You should not have to 're-adjust' the pulley or tensioner once fitted - have seen several engine's destroyed when the belt has jumped because of a jammed tensioner pulley.
Mick
The eccentric pulley should move freely without the timing belt on - make sure the lug on the back of it ( which the tensioner rod pushes against ) is not fouling on anything and the bearing in the pulley is not worn.
You should not have to 're-adjust' the pulley or tensioner once fitted - have seen several engine's destroyed when the belt has jumped because of a jammed tensioner pulley.
Mick
All pulleys were brand new Subaru items so shouldn't be knackered.
21 April 2013, 11:32 AM
#4
Yes it should move freely as its meant to pivot so the tensioner can keep constant tension on the belt.
Make sure the lug on the back of it is roughly in the 1 o'clock position when you torque it up and it should pivot freely.
The spacer which the bolt passes through goes in from behind so it doesnt lock the pulley up solid when the bolt is torqued up to 39Nm.
Mick
Make sure the lug on the back of it is roughly in the 1 o'clock position when you torque it up and it should pivot freely.
The spacer which the bolt passes through goes in from behind so it doesnt lock the pulley up solid when the bolt is torqued up to 39Nm.
Mick
21 April 2013, 05:37 PM
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Merlin,
Blimey just found the problem, the new one locks solid, the old one is free to move, the spacer in the new one isn't long enough so when you torque it the bolt face touches the casing instead of the space tube locking it solid, the old one is fine.
Ive put the old one on for now and its perfect the new once needs a 1mm spacer washer just big enough as the same diameter as the spacer tube and it will be fine.
Glad i checked it now.
Blimey just found the problem, the new one locks solid, the old one is free to move, the spacer in the new one isn't long enough so when you torque it the bolt face touches the casing instead of the space tube locking it solid, the old one is fine.
Ive put the old one on for now and its perfect the new once needs a 1mm spacer washer just big enough as the same diameter as the spacer tube and it will be fine.
Glad i checked it now.
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