fitting an uppipe?
Hi pal,
well not that much of a pain,but a fair bit to strip to get to the pipe,only did mine last weekend and changed the manifold to the four branch with the uppipe.it took me 3hours to get job dne.
well not that much of a pain,but a fair bit to strip to get to the pipe,only did mine last weekend and changed the manifold to the four branch with the uppipe.it took me 3hours to get job dne.
1) Spray all the fasteners with WD-40 or similar the night before and again on the morning before you start.
2) Start the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes so the headers are warmed through but not too hot.
3) The job is far easier if you have a ramp or lift but if you are doing it on your own driveway make sure the car is well supported and a raised platform saves a lot of time for the bits under the bonnet.
4) Start from the top to drop the downpipe. This is necessary so you can get to all the uppipe fasteners. It may involve removing other items such as a top mount intercooler but do not remove anything needlessly.
5) Your attitude should be that you are only going to apply the socket once to each fastener because if you round off nuts you will require a burning torch to complete the task.
6) At the top of the uppipe under the turbo, three nuts attach the uppipe to the turbo and two nuts attach the uppipe flange to brackets. Sometimes one or other or both of these are missing.
7) Slacken the three nuts holding each header flange to the cylinder head. ie. 3 nuts either side/cylinder head. Slacken only. Do not remove. If you are actually swapping headers these can be fully removed later.
8) Undo the two nuts/bolt connections from the collector on the driver’s side. You may find it necessary to slacken but not remove the two connections to each side of the crosspipe.
9) Take care of the Lambda sensor if it is located in the collector.
10) If the uppipe has a cat on fire heat sensor disconnect the plug.
At this point it should be possible to waggle out the uppipe. If the space available is insufficient to get the uppipe out slacken off each engine mounting but do not fully remove the nut/fastener. Using a block of wood underneath the sump jack the engine to give more clearance for the uppipe to come out.
11) If you are removing the headers simply undo the already slackened nuts, three to each cylinder head.
12) Refit in the reverse order.
You can reuse the gaskets if they are in good condition. The gasket most likely to go is the collector to uppipe gasket and if it is blowing you will see soot witness marks. Sometimes the crosspipe gaskets fail but the remaining gaskets to cylinder head and turbo do not normally give any trouble. Using exhaust gasket paste is a good idea but it must NOT be squashed in to the gas flow diameter as a hard lump of exhaust paste once dried could destroy the turbine blades. We use a high temperature silicon which remains rubberised.
All my uppipes are slip jointed and this is to allow relief of the stress and tension on the header assembly during the heat cycling in service. Because the uppipe is slip jointed do not twist it as it will put the flanges out of alignment giving the impression that the uppipe will not fit properly. As all uppipes are made on a jig it is not possible to manufacture one out of tollerance.
Tools required are 12 and 14mm sockets and ring spanners, knuckle joint and extension bar to allow access from underneath to the bottom of the turbo.
Regards,
Harvey.
Three hours is a fair time subject to the facilities you have.
2) Start the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes so the headers are warmed through but not too hot.
3) The job is far easier if you have a ramp or lift but if you are doing it on your own driveway make sure the car is well supported and a raised platform saves a lot of time for the bits under the bonnet.
4) Start from the top to drop the downpipe. This is necessary so you can get to all the uppipe fasteners. It may involve removing other items such as a top mount intercooler but do not remove anything needlessly.
5) Your attitude should be that you are only going to apply the socket once to each fastener because if you round off nuts you will require a burning torch to complete the task.
6) At the top of the uppipe under the turbo, three nuts attach the uppipe to the turbo and two nuts attach the uppipe flange to brackets. Sometimes one or other or both of these are missing.
7) Slacken the three nuts holding each header flange to the cylinder head. ie. 3 nuts either side/cylinder head. Slacken only. Do not remove. If you are actually swapping headers these can be fully removed later.
8) Undo the two nuts/bolt connections from the collector on the driver’s side. You may find it necessary to slacken but not remove the two connections to each side of the crosspipe.
9) Take care of the Lambda sensor if it is located in the collector.
10) If the uppipe has a cat on fire heat sensor disconnect the plug.
At this point it should be possible to waggle out the uppipe. If the space available is insufficient to get the uppipe out slacken off each engine mounting but do not fully remove the nut/fastener. Using a block of wood underneath the sump jack the engine to give more clearance for the uppipe to come out.
11) If you are removing the headers simply undo the already slackened nuts, three to each cylinder head.
12) Refit in the reverse order.
You can reuse the gaskets if they are in good condition. The gasket most likely to go is the collector to uppipe gasket and if it is blowing you will see soot witness marks. Sometimes the crosspipe gaskets fail but the remaining gaskets to cylinder head and turbo do not normally give any trouble. Using exhaust gasket paste is a good idea but it must NOT be squashed in to the gas flow diameter as a hard lump of exhaust paste once dried could destroy the turbine blades. We use a high temperature silicon which remains rubberised.
All my uppipes are slip jointed and this is to allow relief of the stress and tension on the header assembly during the heat cycling in service. Because the uppipe is slip jointed do not twist it as it will put the flanges out of alignment giving the impression that the uppipe will not fit properly. As all uppipes are made on a jig it is not possible to manufacture one out of tollerance.
Tools required are 12 and 14mm sockets and ring spanners, knuckle joint and extension bar to allow access from underneath to the bottom of the turbo.
Regards,
Harvey.
Three hours is a fair time subject to the facilities you have.
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Yes, you will notice the EGT probe has nowhere to go so has to stay removed. Can either get it mapped out or use a resistor fix to turn off the cel.
Check out this thread for details
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?p=29126624
Check out this thread for details
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?p=29126624
In some uppipes subject to model and year there is a boss to take a temperature sensor and this is relevant to CAT operation. Most people dispense with this.
If you wish to retain the heat sensor for some reason running one of my uppipes simply tell me at the time of ordering and you can have the uppipe with a sensor boss.
If you wish to delete the sensor, again let me know at the time of ordering and I wll provide you with a sensor delete which will deal with the CEL issue.
If you wish to retain the heat sensor for some reason running one of my uppipes simply tell me at the time of ordering and you can have the uppipe with a sensor boss.
If you wish to delete the sensor, again let me know at the time of ordering and I wll provide you with a sensor delete which will deal with the CEL issue.
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