helium3

iTrader: (1)

Im just testing the water here. basically im looking at possibly upgrading my classic standard uk2000. im looking eventually to reach a reliable 400bhp. so would it be cheeper to drop an ej257 in and uprate the pistons etc or do a total stroker build. im new to modding cars so id just like a few pointers thanks

helium3

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to add id be going for a six speed conversion too

sssssteeeee

closed deck - stroker kit. if u want a real tough solid lump - 22B engine.

BlueBugEye

iTrader: (12)

2.5 will be cheapest for reliable 400, std Sti lump can do that.

Bez300

iTrader: (2)

2.5 sti is only good for upto 350bhp, and reliability is a big MMMM if you are going to drive it hard.
I have had my 2.5 fully forged and now running 500BHP, very happy with it.
but having a 2.0 fully closed deck block and stroking it upto 2.1 will make a much stronger engine.
If I was to build another engine
1st choice would be 22b engine. 2.2 stroked upto 2.33
2nd choice would be 2.0 fully closed deck, stroked upto 2.1
3rd choice would be 2.5 forged as I have now.
Very happy with the power of the 2.5 and the torque is ace.
but it is the weaker block of the 3
a standard sti 2.5 will not take 400bhp for long

Bez

helium3

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info guys.....i think planting a complete 2.5 would be the cheapest option bit from what ive been reading and the fact my mate runs a 2.1 stroker i(which is awesome)m better off with the latter.

the next thing is heads. do i just have mine ported or try and get some version 3 sti heads or some other model?

snake1906

iTrader: (4)

id go with the built 2ltr over the 2.1 anyday as i have the 2.1 and its a struggle to get the power from standard fit turbo the 2ltr will make more power with the same turbo

P555SBR

iTrader: (1)

chepest option would be a 2.1 stroker using a semi closed deck block as you dont need a rear thrust mod good for the 400bhp you want but are you going to stop at that level if not go with a cdb good for over 500bhp with the right internals the choice is your

bigsinky

first question you need to ask yourself is how much do I want to spend. for a reliable genuine 400HP in a classic car it will be £10k. Search the forum. this topic has been done loads of times.

helium3

iTrader: (1)

Like i said i was testing the water, tbh i love my scoob , its been standard for the 5 years ive had it so i guess anything over 300bhp is gona be a real boost. id like to have put about 7k in it. 10 is a little rich. i may aswell go with my 2nd option and go buy an r33 gtr ive seen. with a cat back , filters and a remap i should be close to 400 without much effort
. we will have to see when its crunch time

helium3

iTrader: (1)

Or there maybe a 3rd option. just seen a car on ebay with all the mods i need. engines fully forged and capable of 500bhp. 3,5k for the car, now that would be an easy fix

bigsinky

classic are notoriously expensive to modify to a reasonable amount of power. newage cars are much easier to tune and cost a lot less. I would tend to stay away from ebay cars unless it comes with a mountain of paperwork and proof to back up certain claims. engine capable of 500HP? probably with £10K worth of other modifications. just be careful.

jura11

iTrader: (7)

2.1 will be mine choice if its limited budget,if its budget 2.35L will be mine choice

We are running 2.1 with the MDX321T and is awesome combination


Jura

helium3

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, i think il keep doing research. i did think about getting a wide track blob with dccd and mod that to about 400. i think anything on the table at the minute, i cou ald afford 10k but then i may aswell by a newage already done for that kind of $. out of curiosity would version 3 sti type r make nearly 400? perhaps a new turbo and six speed?

bigarf

iTrader: (67)

eh? a struggle to get power from a 2.1.

bigsinky

The most sensible option. lower tax bracket as well

again be careful what you buy here. plenty of provenance and paperwork is the key. better to buy an unmolested, well serviced blobeye and then have the mods done right by a reputable tuner.

Yes no problem if you want to put the money into it. you will need a lot more than a new turbo and gearbox. basically everything in the engine bay needs changed. rods, pistons, bearings, you can reuse heads and cams maybe get them ported, fmic, modine, oil pump, fpr, better spark, better breathing, better fuelling, new ecu, new turbo (probably rotated), full six speed drive train, new clutch, better brakes, better suspension plus lots of wee things that you don't think about but cost money. £50 here, £80 there, next thing you know £1k has gone on things you can't even see but are very necessary. Trust me on this. things can get out of hand very quickly. Ask anyone who has a big power classic shape (i.e over 400HP car).

Now you see why it costs at least £10K. better of buying your blob and modifing it. If I had to do it again the widetrack blobeye would be my choice.

helium3

iTrader: (1)

yeah i think a modded blob with good paper work or a clean standard one might be the way to go. ive just been really happy with mine but shes gona need some tlc soon so figured id check out my options.

MartynJ

Tosh, piffle and poppycock, lol.

Who built your 2.1 ?

What turbo is it fitted with and what associated modifications do you have ?

Why are you struggling to get power from it when plenty out there will help you achieve it, budget allowing of course ?

Having built more 2.1 engines than most, I can say categorically that the 2.1 is better than the 2 litre

legacy_gtb

iTrader: (3)

^completely agree! Listen to Martynj, he knows his bananas!

A 2.1 is better than a 2.0 ..... but a 2.5 for a sub 450 road car beats them all hands down IMO .... no replaacement for displacement and for on road manners, torque is the new horsepower! :-)

wms-racing

Totally agree, but it does depend on how you drive it, if you like to rev the thing, a 2.1 would be a better choice.

bigsinky

actually 2.35 would be a better choice

Ian

iTrader: (10)

just stroke your standard t2000 block to a 2.1

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

As I always say.

For a road car that you don't want to rev to oblivion, forged 2.5, everytime. Put something like an SC46 on it and it'll spool like a VF35 and make 450 + all day long. It's just perfect for the road.

If you want something for the track or that you can rev though the ceiling, 2.1.

For both of the above you'll need the right supporting mods (deffo a 6 speed gearbox) to exploit their potential. You'll be into a 5 figure sum easily.

If you just want something on the cheaper side. A 2.5 with better pistons and HGs with the std turbo and the standard ancillaries just dropped into a classic would go like sh*t off a shovel and make a very nice road car. Can't promise your box would last though!

If you want something that'll get you to even higher levels and provide better response for the larger turbos required to get in the 550+ range than the 2.1, go with the 2.35, but then you're talking SERIOUS money.

stevep360

iTrader: (20)

Bez300

iTrader: (2)

Glad some of you like the 2.5. you here so many guys saying they are no good, the torque on them is ace.
there are a few of you saying that the built 2.5s don't rev, Martin At Alan Jeffrey set the rev limit to 7900 how high do you want them to rev to?
with a 2.5 build you get a lot of area under the graph compared to the 2.1
Here is mine

not the highest power in the world, but its great to drive, and pull all through the revs

Bez

keljon

iTrader: (10)

I have a my99 uk turbo 2000 classic and have come to the conclusion a newage sti 2.0 is the most cost effective upgrade although I prob won't go more than 350 ish because I don't want the added expense of changing the gearbox

Bez300

iTrader: (2)

very nice build Steve

Bez

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

+2

beliblisk

iTrader: (16)

With 350 you might end up changing gearbox any way:P