darkmagic

Dear All,

I'm new to all of this and have read many threads on this subject already but really need more advice/info please.

I have a 2006 STI Spec D with 64k on it. Had it for 18 months. (early 06)

3-4 months ago the engine temp would rise to half way then fall back down within a few minutes.

1 month ago the temp rose to full!! stopped the car as fast a poss and turned off the engine.

2 days later (and after much searching on the internet) I took the car to a garage. They removed the thermostat and tested it. It opened but just a little.

They recommended replacing it (bought a cheap aftermarket thermostat) filled it up with subaru super coolant then topped up with de-ionised water.

Bled/burped the car (many techniques were posted on the net), fans cylcing perfectly, bottom hose hot and temp perfect. Heater temp on full, fans to low.

Drove the car for 30-45 mins and the temp started rising rapidly. Pulled it over. Bottom pipe cold. Re-burped (several times) drove again and same happened. Resorvoir would overflow and chuck out most of the coolant.

Called the AA. They did a sniff test and said it was fine, said could still be an air lock. AA then took out the thermostat (the new aftermarket one I just put in) said it could be knackered and jammed it open.
Put the jammed thermo in, burped it and drove.

Car took a while to heat up as expected but temp was fine, car was fine, everything great apart from the fact that it's not a great idea to be driving for too long without a proper thermo.

Bought a genuine subaru thermo and coolant. Did some more research about airlocks and burping. But excatly the same problems occured. Spoke to some subaru mechanics and gave some more tips on burping but still same problems. However now little black bits (very thin like paper) starting showing in the radiator and a touch of oil mixed with the coolant.

Took the new Subaru thermostat out and put in the jammed one until I figured out the problem. All the time when the car was stationary it would be perfect. Driving it would casue the overheating.

The car is now overheating with an open thermostat as well! Black bits and touch of oil still appearing.

I'm guessing what I had after plenty of reading is that I had a head gasket on its last legs and the problem just got worse. (hope the head is not cracked)

The car is on the drive. Will get a pressure test done soon, but does anyone have any other thoughts as to what could be the problem please?

chopperman

Head gasket is my bet !

d4vidh

Could it be that it isn't overheating and you have a faulty coolant temp sensor. AFAIK it should sit about half way when warmed up. It shouldn't drop. Also try taking the fans of the rad and warm it up on the drive and check the temp of the rad to see if it an even head top to bottom. I think it is possible to fit a thermostat incorrectly as well. If you take off the housing you will feel the countoured shape inside to be not flat and the stat itself is off centered.

IggyRB320

iTrader: (9)

Head gasket!

darkmagic

It could be possible that I have a faulty coolant temp sensor and will try what you suggested. Thermo in the right way as that was possibly one cause which I explored before. I think deep down I know its the gasket. Anyone reccomend a competent mechanic near west London?

DantheMan2605

Head gasket! Just had mine done for the same thing!

chopperman

Not advisable to just fix just the gasket as it's false economy. Sometimes the big end and main bearing shells can be damaged after an HG failure. The best option while not cheap is have the engine re-build with new shells, forged pistons and ARP studs.This should also prevent future issues.

darkmagic

Hi DantheMan2605 I have different garages telling me different things. One said they would just put a new gaskets in place and keep eveything else the same (dependant on what they find when the start the surgery !!!) others say head bolts, water pump, skimming the heads etc.etc. I just want the car running in A1 condition for a few more years and won't be looking for more power. Please let me know how much it cost you and what you had done?

darkmagic

Chopperman - thanks for your response. what we looking at price wise (bull park) for everything to be done properly without necessarily uprating every single part?

chopperman

4k i reckon mate. But you get back a strong engine that should last years.

darkmagic

I'm just so effing pissed that this has happened, I was very thorough when I bought the car now it has turned into a complete and utter disaster. you know of any decent garages close to west London?

chopperman

Dont know about London mate. I think slowboy racing are in kent. my choices would be
Finch motorsport Northampton
Enginetuner Plymouth
API Midlands i think.

I used Finch and am very happy with my engine. I believe Engine tuner can do recovery service.

d4vidh

Try api if worst case http://www.apiimpreza.com/frames/pro...&categoryID=29

darkmagic

Thanks everyone for the reccomendations. I'll keep you posted as to what happens next.

Butty

iTrader: (2)

The black bits are the head gasket sealant breaking off. I bet the expansion tank overflows as well.
The gas sniff test won't work as the heads are lifting only with boost to put gas into the coolant. You can't build the required boost to prove this while stationary.

Classic early hawkeye STi head gasket problem that Subaru will deny.
Heads and block will need a skim.
The pistons may as well be swapped while the engine is in parts.

Exactly the same happened to my old Spec D, so I bought a short engine from Finch Motorsport.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

If you plan on keeping it then there are two people to speak to, David at API, or Alan at Enginetuner.

Both will collect the car and make a first class job of the repair and both do Everything In House, so no variables.

a5h

iTrader: (3)

Try FB tuning in High Wycombe it's only 20-30 mins down the M40 from West London.

The HG failure on the 2.5 s are quite common when I went to look at mine the head gasket was gone and this is what they said. I took the opportunity to make it more reliable but dropping in forged pistons, among other treats as it was a good time with the heads off.

Rich from FB is the only person I let near my 2006 STI.

darkmagic

Thanks for eveyone that has responded and great suggestions as to who to turn to. Can't believe Subaru are in denial if so many Hawkeyes have had issues. Frustrating! At the moment I'm using the wife's cars until I can save some pennies. Trying to cool off as still p****d.

a5h

iTrader: (3)

Mate where abouts are you in west London? Stick your head in the middlesex scooby owners section of the clubs as we do regular meets. Would be nice to meet you/ see the motor when it's up any running.

darkmagic

I live in Ealing , will be great to meet up. I will have a look at the middlesex scooby owners section - I think from memory you have had some meets at the Ace Cafe (only 3 miles from me) I hoping to have my car sorted in the next 2-3 weeks.

T20Driver

iTrader: (3)

There's also Len at Subaru 4 You in Newbury just off the M4 who does a lot of engine rebuilds ..

a5h

iTrader: (3)

Oh I have seen your car about as my best mate lives in Ealing so always around. We do meets monthly ish at the Middlesex stadium in Ickenham just off the A40 the next one is the 12th August. Feel free to pop down without the scooby we are a friendly bunch.

Steve001

iTrader: (7)

I feel for you mate mine went and was repaired under subaru warranty. 30K later its gone again took car off the road now and bought a little run around while I save for the forged bits and Bobs

pain the the assssss

Donz144

I'm currenty going through the same thing with my 2006 HAwkeye wagon. What a ball ache. I've replaced everything hoping that it would not be the HG (Water pump, tensioner and cambelt as well as pressure caps, flushed matrix and rad, new coolant, new oil etc) but it's still overheating when boosting hard. This is really the only evidence to suggest there's a problem i.e. sniff test was neg. There was a tiny amount of water on the oils surface of the dipstick - extremely subtle so could just be condensation from short journeys.

I'm not interested in more power particularly so Im going for cosworth HG and uprated h11 studs and pins.

I'm relieved in many ways that we finally have the problem identified and the fact I've changed so many bits will bring the cost down (compared to a single hit for the work) and ultimately help the car run smoother.

70k on clock running 330/330 so I can't complain too much!

DantheMan2605

Aparently it the subaru bolts that stretch in the center of the heads. It is advised to upgrade to head studs because of this. If running standard power... Standard sized studs are fine...