uzzy-swr

hi. i have a 94 wrx saloon. just wondering what is the max boost the turbo can run. cheers

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

1.4/1.5 bar.

uzzy-swr

would that be dangerous for the engine if it has standard internals. i wanted to upgrade my fuel pump and injectors. what sort could i get at a reasonable price. cheers

StickyMicky

IIRC i think its actually outside the flow chart when it gets past 1.7bar

Pavlo

Makes me wonder where it is at 2.1 bar

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

It will definately shorten the lifespan of the turbo,engine,gearbox and clutch.

Fuel pump is about £80 for a Walbro, you could get a 2nd set of 440 cc injectors you will need adaptors though Carl Davey, specialist Subaru Impreza parts supply or have a look at 550cc

But if you change the injectors then you need a remap so it may be worth looking at remappable ecus then speaking to a mapper about what mods yuo can do and/or need.

All depends on how much power you want really.

StickyMicky

who runs them at 2.1 bar ?

i had a mate who ran his at 1.8bar supposedly with no apparent issues

ran mine at 1.65bar on the ej257 for a laugh for a short time

RA95

16g runs 1.5 bar happily all day long.

Will get a bit breathless beyond that.

Pavlo

2.1bar peak, holds 1.9bar at 6000rpm then dies off like a stone at 6500rpm.

400ftlb and 390hp on 16g with E85, 365ftlb and 360hp on vpower.

Newer tweaked engine should see 400hp on E85 with a bit of luck.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

fecking hell

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

On a 2.5?

StickyMicky

16g is the true warrior turbo

when i sort the pistons on mine i am going to wind it up a bit more

samcowrx

I would run 1.5 bar on a 16G all day every day.

uzzy-swr

if you can run 16g on 1.5bar than how can i am being told my turbo is running too high boost. its on 1.1bar and the power keeps cutting out and kicks back in usually in higher gears. read the error codes and it says my maf is a problem. could i clean the maf and would this cure the problem. how could i clean it. cheers

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

it can only run 1.5bar if the car has been remapped.
The MAF can be cleaned allgedley with carb cleaner

uzzy-swr

is there a way of opening the MAF. i dont want t break mine. is it all electronic bits inside the MAF box. sorry to sound completely dumb but i dont want to ruin it. rather be told how to do it than to make a mess of it. cheers

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Cannot open the early MAFs.
You need to spray the carb cleaner onto the wire which you can see when you look down it as that is the sensor BUT don't touch it with your hands as it is quite sensitive.

uzzy-swr

cheers. will do it in the morn.

Pavlo

2.0 engine

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

E85 mix? Roadtune?

Sounds interesting...

Pavlo

2.0 engine running on PURE E85, big engine spec despite the small turbo.

RS_Matt

(Sorry for TR)

Re TD05: I know upwards of 1.5 bar would be risky on the track or lengthy b-road blast but could I safely use 1.7 bar for the odd overtake or drag run?

I'm struggling to get a tuner to answer this.

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

Would be pointless as the turbo would be blowing hot air and out of its efficiency range

RS_Matt

Even after 1 launch? I thought it might take a spell of sustained hard driving to get the Turbo hot enough to become a "flame thrower?"

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

No. Turbos have an efficiency graph, in the ideal pressures etc it compresses the air, above that it heats the air rather than compresses it. So even if short over takes etc it is still heating rather than compressing.

No matter how many times you ask the question the answer is still no if you want to run 2.1bar you need a turbo like on my build thread!

RS_Matt

I think I read the TD05 is most efficient at 1.0 BAR!

I know when I got my fuel cut (in 3rd) after the vac hose had come off it was after a steady dual carriageway run on a cold night and no previous excursions onto boost. On hot days giving it the beans in 1st, 2nd and 3rd I never got the cut. So the Turbo is definitely happier when running cooler. Actually shouldn't I have been hitting fuel cut every time with the wastegate staying shut or is it true that exhaust pressures force it open anyway at higher revs?

I know 1.5 is risking it for a car that will see track action, but is 1.5-1.7 viable for a car launching from cooler temps, would the turbo still be within efficiency tolerance??

Will an oil linked with reducing friction help with efficiency issues?

RS_Matt

So basically a TD05 running at 1.2 BAR for 10 mins is safer for the engine/Turbo than a TD05 running at 1.7 BAR for 13 seconds?

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi Matt

Everything depends on few factors,as many mappers can confirm,sometimes more boost doesn't mean more power,more boost sometimes make more heat and doesn't make more power and sometimes more boost actually makes less power

Everything depends on turbo and how is set,I know on TD04 running above 1.5bar doesn't make any more power than on 1.4bar

On TD05 depends,I've seen ported TD05-16G which has making close to 360bhp at 1.5bar and at 1.7bar has make just close to 340bhp

This heat efficiency is down to turbo and not the oil or anything

Not sure on how much you have set LC,what is yours LC set and when you launching what boost usually making,I know on our wagon usually we are been able to launch at 1.0bar,on MDX321T we are never seen 0.7bar at launch,yes we can see,but you will be on starting line for several tens more seconds

You will see how you get on and enjoy track days or drag strip matey

Thanks,Jura

bigdal

Good Morning Darren

Regarding your 380cc, yeah ya ok to cruise about on the stock OEM injectors but don’t boot it

they max out EASY .. thats what kill subaru engine. People think they can boost em to a bar, (even worse if they have switched the turbo)

and the engine then runs lean as they *are running too close to 100 % duty

Simple toddle around and be sensible with your ride (as if you lent the car to your granny to drive)

Im assuming if yours is a base spec 94 WRX then you will have a small TD05 14b

Normally we switch them out for a set of 555s or better still a set of 850cc (our race spec injectors that fit in place of the stock units)

If your planning to upgrade the turbo in the future then an injector upgrade is the first thing you do, be it Subaru, Nissan, or EVO even.*

Getting the fuel system right form the outset is a MUST.

I recommend the following as a Stage 1


Dyno Precheck*
ESL ECU Solution (and we will go MAFless)
850cc injectors
3 port solenoid (which we have)
Naturally tuning time on the dyno

Then at 1.3bar you can see a nice quick spool and make around the 300hp mark

Stage 2 would be to then change the turbo for a VF series and then you can look at anything around 350-360

If you want to just keep stock injectors then I tune to engine to around 1- 1.5bar to be safe.

In a couple of weeks will be fine also .




Regards

Steve Sadler
FCTUNING
REDLINEMOTORSPORT LTD
___________________________
engine management tuning solutions

RS_Matt

I don't bother with LC, just hold it at circa 4000rpm with the handrake on lol. Slipping the clutch a bit so it doesn't bog down.

Basically because I religiously drive like an old fart away from the strip (see my MPG threads) I just wondered if it was an instantaneous blowing heat or something that took a few spool ups to create the "flame thrower situation"

I mean running 1.7 BAR could I blow the engine via detonation from just flouring the car once in 3rd gear?

I keep getting told the answer that a Turbo getting close to being maxed blows hot air but never an emphatic answer to if it does it on the first spool.

I really venture onto boost in 4th and 5th gear, even on the strip and I roughly gather they are the danger gears.