hi people, im planning an engine rebuild! the main reason for this is that i want to start doing a few track days etc, but the car will still be used as my daily driver. the target would be around the 380bhp mark dn't want any more realy because iv still got to insure it. iv been thinking of three options} number 1 rebuild the standard engine that is already in the car with forged internals} number 2 get a cbd block and build with forged internals as silent running is doing in the project section, great work pal or number 3 get a standard 2.5 block. there is nothing up with the car at the moment just dont want to risk putting a md or 20g turbo on as its neary got 100.000 mile on the clock. i no il have to think of the gearbox aswell plus the brakes etc. any advice would be fantastic guys
oh yes an it would help if i told you what car it is.

its a my98 turbo 2000
current mods so far
fully de-catted stainless exhaust
ported and wrapped headers with up-pipe
walbro fuel pump
aermotive fpr
fmic
apexi induction

cheers kyle

 

bttt for another day

 

if your target is 380 then any of your options is suitable.
For an informed decision you need to set a budget.
Are you really going to stick to the target or like the rest of us once you start modding you always want more?

Best package would be the 2.5 with an MD321* on it. If going for the T i would suggest pistons and rods aswell.

If you're going to go for serious power later on then the CDB is the way to go as its the strongest.

Rebuilding your current engine with forged internals would probably be the cheapest if you're going to do the work yourself.

Cost wise you're looking at around £1200 for a straight rebuild.
Budget an extra £600 - £800 for the cdb block and machining costs (thrust bearing mod and piston honing).

Brand new EJ257 short engine will cost you between £1800 - £2000 all in to fit. thats including vat and gaskets etc

Food for thought

 

2.5 bottom end should do it and uprate internals

 

scooby technix are doing drive in/drive out 2.5 swaps for 2500 + vat inclusive

will take them 3/4 days and they will pick up your car on a wagon + drop it off, this does not include any ecu/mapping work

 

i just want it strong enough for a few track days, i mean i might only go twice in a year. 380 is realy the highest i want go as insurance and feeding it fuel is gunna be expensive. plus having a 450-500hp road car would be far to CRAZY for me . would it be ok then if i just uprated the internals in my original block? maybe an sti crank aswell would that be worth doing?? oh and thanks for the advice guys

cheers kyle

 

Yes it would also make a very nice road car.
Pistons and rods can be had for around £500. (Eagle Wiseco combo)

Also consider that anything over 300bhp is gearbox breaking territory too.

As for this £2500 drive in drive out. It's not exactly as described. It doesn't include mapping, which will be needed so add another £650 +vat to the price if you have an unmolested ECU.

 

so what will i need then for the build??

pistons nand rings
conrods
bearings
all the gaskets
what about sti heads??
maybe an sti crank???

cheers kyle

 

I'd go for eagle rods cheap enough and will easily cope with 500bhp.
Wiseco Pistons
ACL race bearings
No need for STI heads if your capping power at 380bhp. A nice to have but not essential at that level.

Definately get an STI V9 crank.

Incedently in the days before I knew what I was doing with these cars a rebuild to that exact spec cost me nearly £9K at TSL, thats not a typo i really did say nearly NINE THOUSAND POUNDS. Gullable was not the word
Only additionals were headers (£500) port and polish on the heads (500) and a remap (650)
can buy the parts required for around a grand. If only i knew then what I know now

 

cheers daz youve been a great help

 

i know what your saying although a lot less expensive I got mine rebuilt to standard spec for £2000 and that was reusing the old crank.
This time im doing it my self

 

Hey guys,

I'm just giving the piggy another shake yet again to get me a 2.5 short block with forged pistons/rods and cometic head gaskets to suit.

I'm looking for around the 500 of each mark (already have the other bits necessary for this fitted )

A couple of things I'm pondering over are;

1) Will I have to upgrade from the standard bearings.
2) Will I need ARP head bolts.
3) Will I have to have any machine work done to my heads to accomodate
going from 2.0 to 2.5 bottom end.
If so, what type of work, how much to do and who can do this sort of work in the Northwest?

Thanks for any advise,

Dave.

 

i would of thought that you would most definatly [ sorry for the spelling ]need uprated bearings and head bolts for that sort of crazy power. im not sure about the heads though, im sure someone will correct me if im wrong. good luck with the build though mate

 

Right, the guy who is supplying my forged internal components from the states has quoted me an additional $190 for ARP Headstuds and $115 for a full ACL Engine Bearing Kit; so approx £160 looks like a viable option/necessity

 

OK Then, standard bearings will be OK if they are new if not you may as well swap them for ACL items.
Machine work on the heads isn't vital but I would suggest a light skim.
If you're using 2.0L heads then you'll need a 1.6mm Gasket to retain correct CR.
ARP head studs are a must.

I would also say either a 12MM AVCS Oil Pump or the Roger Clark Motosport item is also a must have.

Cheers

Daz

 

I have a set of arp headstuds i can sell cheap the only reason im selling them is we are going to 14mm studs they are 3 months old been taken apart once and wont go back in the engine still very good as arp are totaly reusable they are in warwickshire £50 if you pick them up
pm me if interested