I need advice on my 98 UK wagon. the last owner fitted a Jap Sti engine and intercooled etc. Also K&N cone induction kit and custom made exhaust. After buying the car I noticed that at maximum boost the engine cuts out. I phoned the bloke who sold it to me and after the expected "It never happened when I owned the car, you must of f**k the engine" He admitted that it, may sill have, its original ECU and not an Sti one. Can I solve the problem by fitting an Sti ECU or do I need a new remapable ECU etc. (I'm after 280hp or just above.)

Ta, Dinsdale.

 

First thing is to check what ECU you have.
I'm not sure where it is on a UK model but the JDM ecu is underneath the passenger footplate a few screws hold the footplate in place and underneath is the ECU which will have a letter then a number i.e. Z4.

 

Also confirm what turbo and engine it really has in it..

if you fit a Jap ecu you will have to swap the wiring so it runs.

a Mappable ecu would be better but would cost you more also.

Simon

 

Thanks for both replys. The turbo is a VF25 (According to my Internet research possibly meant to on a Legacy as the 2nd turbo) So the car's a bit of a mongrel. Can anyone tell me how to workout what engine I've got from its numbers? The last owner claimed its an early closed deck RA motor, all I know is its red.

Ta, Dinsdale.

 

if you stick with the current turbo etc.. then you are pretty much saying you need a mappable ecu and a remap.

the other alternative would be to limit the boost with a bleed valve and get the fuelling checked and the engine checked for det with det cans etc.. and also that person should be able to identify if it is a closed deck block and what heads are mostlikely on it etc etc..

Simon

 

The red should mean its an STI but you could just paint it red and pretend its an STI.
This might sound rude (its not meant to) but why did you buy it?
Does the previous owner not have any paperwork for what has been done?
If you tell people the area you're in then they can point you in the direction of your nearest scooby specialist.

 

what he said..

 

Any recommendations I live in the Warwick area. All I know of is API
Ta, Dinsdale.

 

I don't think you will find much better than API .
I'm sure they would be happy to help David posts on here

 

This might sound rude (its not meant to) but why did you buy it?
It was cheap and I bought it as a fun project for weekends. But now I need to sort it out and sell it.

 

Best to take to API to let them have a look then they can point you in the right direction

 

I'm off to API then, Thanks.

 

Good luck

 

Watch this space. Thanks for the ' plug ' guys !!

David APi

 

Shame on you Simon...

Ball-spring is the only way I'd go.

Si

 

lol.. sorry when I first started playing with turbo's there was nothing other than bleed valves and I continue to use that old skool name for a manual boost controller.. the important thing is to limit the boost..

Simon

 

Well that's just crazy talk...

Si

 

So it no longer hits fuel cut.. whilst checking with detcans and wideband etc etc..

although I agree limiting the boost is crazy talk in that we need BOOOOOOST

Simon

 

I agree with Simon, used a boost limiter to overcome spikes, a bleed valve is a very simple, quick solution.

Used as a sole means of controlling boost is VERY dangerous. What folks don't realise is that whatever the boost is set at on the bleed valve, is what it is capable of across the whole rev range.

IE it could make 1.3 bar from 3000 rpm right the way around the the red line. No scaling. Which can be fatal.

What worries me is that people get used to the power level and in uninformed hands the temptation to give the valve another half turn ' because it feels like it isn't going properly ' is quite possible. Then in another 6 weeks it gets another half turn and so-on.

David APi