Going to attempt timing belt / water pump change
#1
Going to attempt timing belt / water pump change
So before I start any pre advice to help the job ?
Will watch a few vids but 1 thing I'm asking is does the crank pulley need to come off ?
Of so how how do you lock the engine up ?
Assume i align all marks before taking old belt off , release tensioner ( old style 1995 ) remove belt , make sure all aligned and easy peasy lol ha
cheers
Will watch a few vids but 1 thing I'm asking is does the crank pulley need to come off ?
Of so how how do you lock the engine up ?
Assume i align all marks before taking old belt off , release tensioner ( old style 1995 ) remove belt , make sure all aligned and easy peasy lol ha
cheers
#5
Yeah full timing kit and water pump ( current 24 yr old pump seal has finally failed ) hence doing it , belt wasn't due for another 30k or so but hey ho
oil pump was replaced in 2011 I think it was when belt was last done
will check crank seal but even if it is weaping I won't be doing it lol car needs to be in use can't have it off the road
oil pump was replaced in 2011 I think it was when belt was last done
will check crank seal but even if it is weaping I won't be doing it lol car needs to be in use can't have it off the road
#6
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I didn't bother with cam locking tool,just patients,long arms and a bit of swearing lol.
To remove crank pulley,use 10mm Allen key,place it in the inspection hole to lock fly wheel.
Merlin24 posted a great post,I saw this after I fitted mine,looks a great way and probably less/no swearing involved
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...tml?styleid=28
To remove crank pulley,use 10mm Allen key,place it in the inspection hole to lock fly wheel.
Merlin24 posted a great post,I saw this after I fitted mine,looks a great way and probably less/no swearing involved
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...tml?styleid=28
#7
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I've done it twice now but only with the engine out. For sure the cam locking tool was bloody useful.
The hardest thing is winding off the crank damper bolt, they are pretty tight! Make sure to clean up the threads for that when you put it back in.
I took lots of pictures of each cam and crank sprocket and the lines on each and the belt to save that 'did I, didn't I?' later on!
Good luck with it!
The hardest thing is winding off the crank damper bolt, they are pretty tight! Make sure to clean up the threads for that when you put it back in.
I took lots of pictures of each cam and crank sprocket and the lines on each and the belt to save that 'did I, didn't I?' later on!
Good luck with it!
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#8
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Also use a piece of cereal packet cardboard as a spacer for setting the belt guide clearance, they are usually about 0.75 or 0.8 mm thick and perfect for it (spec was 1+-0.5mm on my hawk).
Too close and the belt can wear (it was too close when I bought my car!), too far and presumably there is some risk of the belt jumping.
Too close and the belt can wear (it was too close when I bought my car!), too far and presumably there is some risk of the belt jumping.
#9
I didn't bother with cam locking tool,just patients,long arms and a bit of swearing lol.
To remove crank pulley,use 10mm Allen key,place it in the inspection hole to lock fly wheel.
Merlin24 posted a great post,I saw this after I fitted mine,looks a great way and probably less/no swearing involved
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...tml?styleid=28
To remove crank pulley,use 10mm Allen key,place it in the inspection hole to lock fly wheel.
Merlin24 posted a great post,I saw this after I fitted mine,looks a great way and probably less/no swearing involved
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...tml?styleid=28
With the method in the link above you set the timing marks quite a way off from being aligned so when you do then release the tensioner it pulls the cams together ???
And with the crank pulley, mine has 4 holes in it, im guessing i can use either of those ? and where does it have to be to lock into the flywheel, 1 oclock, 11 o clock etc ?
Thanks
#10
Also use a piece of cereal packet cardboard as a spacer for setting the belt guide clearance, they are usually about 0.75 or 0.8 mm thick and perfect for it (spec was 1+-0.5mm on my hawk).
Too close and the belt can wear (it was too close when I bought my car!), too far and presumably there is some risk of the belt jumping.
Too close and the belt can wear (it was too close when I bought my car!), too far and presumably there is some risk of the belt jumping.
#22
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-VS....c101006.m3226
Bought two of these locking tools, you remove the metal cover on the camshaft sprockets that cover the bolts. Set the timing marks fit these locking tools and tighten them up and go from there. I also took the opportunity to fit an uprated RCM oil pump aswell as their crankshaft belt guide as it is more substantial.
Bought two of these locking tools, you remove the metal cover on the camshaft sprockets that cover the bolts. Set the timing marks fit these locking tools and tighten them up and go from there. I also took the opportunity to fit an uprated RCM oil pump aswell as their crankshaft belt guide as it is more substantial.
#24
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If you are changing the water pump too, it can be a bit tricky keeping the gasket in place when offering up the pump to the block.
A couple of 100mm long M6 threaded bar or long M6 bolts with the heads cut off and screwed into the block face for the pump 180 degrees apart.
Slip the gasket over the studs followed by the water pump.
Get a couple of the water pump bolts started loosely and then remove the studs before fitting the rest of the bolts.
Mick
A couple of 100mm long M6 threaded bar or long M6 bolts with the heads cut off and screwed into the block face for the pump 180 degrees apart.
Slip the gasket over the studs followed by the water pump.
Get a couple of the water pump bolts started loosely and then remove the studs before fitting the rest of the bolts.
Mick
#25
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If you are changing the water pump too, it can be a bit tricky keeping the gasket in place when offering up the pump to the block.
A couple of 100mm long M6 threaded bar or long M6 bolts with the heads cut off and screwed into the block face for the pump 180 degrees apart.
Slip the gasket over the studs followed by the water pump.
Get a couple of the water pump bolts started loosely and then remove the studs before fitting the rest of the bolts.
Mick
A couple of 100mm long M6 threaded bar or long M6 bolts with the heads cut off and screwed into the block face for the pump 180 degrees apart.
Slip the gasket over the studs followed by the water pump.
Get a couple of the water pump bolts started loosely and then remove the studs before fitting the rest of the bolts.
Mick
#28
Right guys, i have started the job and some questions
This is on a 1995 WRX
So, if i align the crank sprocket line up with the notch on the block the timing marks ( 2 lines together ) on the cams ( the passenger side cams ) dont line up, see pics , now, is this correct, does only 1 of the 2 lines need to align or should both line up ? if both need to line up has my cambelt that was changed a few yrs ago not been fitted 100% ?
Crank sprocket lined up / Cam timing marks out
Now Cam sprockets lined up / Crank sprocket out of alignment
So, before i remove the belt, do i just align the crank sprocket , then when the belt is off i can manually move the cams to fully line up as they should ?
Oh and for some reason i dont have a guide plate fitted !?!?!?!?!?!?!? Now the last belt was changed at API some yrs ago . . . . . . . . . . .
cheers
This is on a 1995 WRX
So, if i align the crank sprocket line up with the notch on the block the timing marks ( 2 lines together ) on the cams ( the passenger side cams ) dont line up, see pics , now, is this correct, does only 1 of the 2 lines need to align or should both line up ? if both need to line up has my cambelt that was changed a few yrs ago not been fitted 100% ?
Crank sprocket lined up / Cam timing marks out
Now Cam sprockets lined up / Crank sprocket out of alignment
So, before i remove the belt, do i just align the crank sprocket , then when the belt is off i can manually move the cams to fully line up as they should ?
Oh and for some reason i dont have a guide plate fitted !?!?!?!?!?!?!? Now the last belt was changed at API some yrs ago . . . . . . . . . . .
cheers
#29
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Although they look slightly out, they're near enough. I wouldn't worry at all about that. Just get the old belt off and get the new one on. Don't forget the marks on the sides of the sprockets as well. Get a little mirror so that you can look at them once they are on as it's easy to have the belt a tooth out at first. Lock the cams before taking the old belt off. All I use is a mini chisel wrapped heavily in tape so as to avoid damage to the teeth on the sprockets and I wedge it between the cams on the right hand side.
You may not have a guide plate fitted as early cars didn't have them. The original oil pumps don't have the mountings for them so the pump may have been changed but because there was no guide on the car to start with, the fitter never added one. You can fit one yourself while everything is off. Get an RCM one or a CDF one.
You may not have a guide plate fitted as early cars didn't have them. The original oil pumps don't have the mountings for them so the pump may have been changed but because there was no guide on the car to start with, the fitter never added one. You can fit one yourself while everything is off. Get an RCM one or a CDF one.