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Locking the cam sprockets off was the only pain, I made a locking tool, but the rest is dead easy,
Yes the pulley does come off to remove the cambelt cover.
ok bud thanks, i havent looked into locking the cams but looking at the tool im sure i can make something up with all th ebar/bolts and dremmel i have etc.
Undoing the crank pulley is my only worry , im guessing put it in gear and attempt to undo it ?
Yeah full timing kit and water pump ( current 24 yr old pump seal has finally failed ) hence doing it , belt wasn't due for another 30k or so but hey ho
oil pump was replaced in 2011 I think it was when belt was last done
will check crank seal but even if it is weaping I won't be doing it lol car needs to be in use can't have it off the road
I didn't bother with cam locking tool,just patients,long arms and a bit of swearing lol.
To remove crank pulley,use 10mm Allen key,place it in the inspection hole to lock fly wheel.
Merlin24 posted a great post,I saw this after I fitted mine,looks a great way and probably less/no swearing involved
Also use a piece of cereal packet cardboard as a spacer for setting the belt guide clearance, they are usually about 0.75 or 0.8 mm thick and perfect for it (spec was 1+-0.5mm on my hawk).
Too close and the belt can wear (it was too close when I bought my car!), too far and presumably there is some risk of the belt jumping.
I didn't bother with cam locking tool,just patients,long arms and a bit of swearing lol.
To remove crank pulley,use 10mm Allen key,place it in the inspection hole to lock fly wheel.
Merlin24 posted a great post,I saw this after I fitted mine,looks a great way and probably less/no swearing involved
Ok cheers for the link i might need to re-read it once im doing the job lol, im guessing that method is for when you dont have the locking tools ? as it seems if you have the locking tools, you line the marks up so they align then put the belt on then release tensioner etc.
With the method in the link above you set the timing marks quite a way off from being aligned so when you do then release the tensioner it pulls the cams together ???
And with the crank pulley, mine has 4 holes in it, im guessing i can use either of those ? and where does it have to be to lock into the flywheel, 1 oclock, 11 o clock etc ?
Also use a piece of cereal packet cardboard as a spacer for setting the belt guide clearance, they are usually about 0.75 or 0.8 mm thick and perfect for it (spec was 1+-0.5mm on my hawk).
Too close and the belt can wear (it was too close when I bought my car!), too far and presumably there is some risk of the belt jumping.
Ok bud thanks for that bit of info, i wouldnt of known about the guide plate tolerance etc , im guessing the plate has a bit of slack in the bolt holes to allow for it to be a bit tight or loose against the belt
The crank pulley has them 4 holes for the subaru special tool,you won't get it off using one of the holes I doubt.
ok im confused now, you said use a 10mm allen key in the crank pulley , im guesisng you mean once the covers are all off then to remove the crank sprocket ?
ok im confused now, you said use a 10mm allen key in the crank pulley , im guesisng you mean once the covers are all off then to remove the crank sprocket ?
You need to remove pulley to get cover off.
It's a 10mm Allen key to lock fly wheel.
Ok bud thanks for that bit of info, i wouldnt of known about the guide plate tolerance etc , im guessing the plate has a bit of slack in the bolt holes to allow for it to be a bit tight or loose against the belt
yeah they are adjustable, each plate has slots for it. Best to search for the torque setting / tightening procedure of the crank bolt also, it's torque and turn on the newages.
ok on 2 different paths lol, when you said a 10mm allen key i was picturing the crank pulley still, im now guessing you mean the 10mm allen key goes into the flywheel when you remove the intercooler and the rubber bung on the bell housing
yeah they are adjustable, each plate has slots for it. Best to search for the torque setting / tightening procedure of the crank bolt also, it's torque and turn on the newages.
ok bu d thanks will google some torque settings etc
Bought two of these locking tools, you remove the metal cover on the camshaft sprockets that cover the bolts. Set the timing marks fit these locking tools and tighten them up and go from there. I also took the opportunity to fit an uprated RCM oil pump aswell as their crankshaft belt guide as it is more substantial.
If you are changing the water pump too, it can be a bit tricky keeping the gasket in place when offering up the pump to the block.
A couple of 100mm long M6 threaded bar or long M6 bolts with the heads cut off and screwed into the block face for the pump 180 degrees apart.
Slip the gasket over the studs followed by the water pump.
Get a couple of the water pump bolts started loosely and then remove the studs before fitting the rest of the bolts.
If you are changing the water pump too, it can be a bit tricky keeping the gasket in place when offering up the pump to the block.
A couple of 100mm long M6 threaded bar or long M6 bolts with the heads cut off and screwed into the block face for the pump 180 degrees apart.
Slip the gasket over the studs followed by the water pump.
Get a couple of the water pump bolts started loosely and then remove the studs before fitting the rest of the bolts.
Did one years ago on old Vauxhall 8v luckily only bent one valve. Put me off doing it again. A lot more at stake. Would need follow a very detailed video or shown first person.
Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
Not sure why, its just like doing any other cambelt.
Right guys, i have started the job and some questions
This is on a 1995 WRX
So, if i align the crank sprocket line up with the notch on the block the timing marks ( 2 lines together ) on the cams ( the passenger side cams ) dont line up, see pics , now, is this correct, does only 1 of the 2 lines need to align or should both line up ? if both need to line up has my cambelt that was changed a few yrs ago not been fitted 100% ?
Crank sprocket lined up / Cam timing marks out
Now Cam sprockets lined up / Crank sprocket out of alignment
So, before i remove the belt, do i just align the crank sprocket , then when the belt is off i can manually move the cams to fully line up as they should ?
Oh and for some reason i dont have a guide plate fitted !?!?!?!?!?!?!? Now the last belt was changed at API some yrs ago . . . . . . . . . . .
Although they look slightly out, they're near enough. I wouldn't worry at all about that. Just get the old belt off and get the new one on. Don't forget the marks on the sides of the sprockets as well. Get a little mirror so that you can look at them once they are on as it's easy to have the belt a tooth out at first. Lock the cams before taking the old belt off. All I use is a mini chisel wrapped heavily in tape so as to avoid damage to the teeth on the sprockets and I wedge it between the cams on the right hand side.
You may not have a guide plate fitted as early cars didn't have them. The original oil pumps don't have the mountings for them so the pump may have been changed but because there was no guide on the car to start with, the fitter never added one. You can fit one yourself while everything is off. Get an RCM one or a CDF one.
29 December 2018, 10:35 AM
Going to attempt timing belt / water pump change
