Paulgeorge01

WR1 - 54 plate – EJ207. Running standard set up with 316bhp.


Hi All,


Thanks in advance for any help.


Driving home tonight & stopped in past the doctors to pick up prescription, the car has been fine up until this point. Came out the doctors & really struggled to start the car & keep it going. Managed to get it home 3 miles with CEL light on continuously during the 3 mile trip. When I got home I disconnected the negative battery post for 3 mins & re-attached to reset ECU. Tried to start the car, not keen, then started after 3rd go then spluttered to a stop. Left the car at that; still had a steady CEL light while trying to start the car at home.


Just had a quick read in the cars manual & It states that this light indicated problems with the vehicle emissions control system. Personally I thought the CEL light could throw up codes for much more than just the emissions system. I know my UK V5 turbo ECU did.


I am obviously not going to run car until I plug in OBDE reader & see what’s what, will also check all exhaust sensors, there are a few as car still has original prodrive system with all cats & sensors inplace.

Anyone recommend a good meter that I can buy that will work & throw me up a code?


Also is it OBDE 2 format reader I need for this cars ECU?


Didn’t have this problem with my old classic just connected the wires together & read the blinks. Technology eh!!!


Any advice would be much appreciated,


Cheers Paul

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

stick your location up and find a local member who has the gear to do a quick check, short term.

Paulgeorge01

Thanks for reply Stig,


That would be great but am in the sticks up here in the north east of Scotland (Fochabers, beside the river Spey, 50 miles north of Aberdeen) so not so much members going around



Cheers Paul

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Just get a cheap one off eBay. Mine cost me £15 I think and works a treat. Shows up fault code and can remove with old click.

Paulgeorge01

Thanks for reply Jay.


There are so many on eBay. You got a link to the one you have or a name?


Also is the one you have compatible with the 54 plate WR1? What car you using it on?


First thing I need to know is what type I need to work with my car & fit the car Diagnostics plug? For example OBDE 2 or similar, basically what is required?


Will it read from the ECU (software compatibility) on my car 54 plate WR1?


Is the diagnostics plug on the reader compatible with the interface connection on the car?


Here is a cheap one I seen on eBay but when you look down the bottom you see the date only states dates 96 , 2001


Suitable For The Following Vehicles:

•  
  •  
    • Works with UK vehicles from 96, 2001,
    • Diesels from 2004on-wards with a compliant OBD-II 16 PIN Diagnostic plug (including vehicles onthe CAN, VPW, PMW, ISO & KWP2000 protocols) including:
      
      
      http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-SUBARU-FAULT-CODE-READER-ENGINE-SCANNER-DIAGNOSTIC-RESET-EOBD-OBD2-CAN-BUS/391161900284?_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkpa rms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc% 3D20160908105057%26meid%3D495be30e7bf0438da5c880f2 be984821%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3 D391161900284&_trkparms=pageci%253A809bef50-4cf9-11e7-89bf-74dbd180c60a%257Cparentrq%253A8c45f78315c0aa4735cf 92affff16fa3%257Ciid%253A1
  • 
    
  • 
    

Also I don’t doubt what you say Jay that this did trick on your car but I always think of the old adage “you buy cheap you buy expensive”!! I work on Subaru’s a lot & plan to do in the future for many years to come so would be willing to pay a little bit more for a better more robust machine that gives more/better data but if this one you have is as good as the slightly more expensive ones & gives all the data required then I guess it is a bargain.

Need more information please guys.

Cheers Paul

Paulgeorge01

Just noticed the link I cut & pasted into the last post doesn't work. How do you go about installing a link in your posts that actually takes you there when you click on it without having to cut & paste it into your browser?


Cheers Paul

sivo

iTrader: (30)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-SUBARU...oAAOSwvzRXx5wU

this one does the trick

siv

Paulgeorge01

Thanks Sivo. I will order one now as need to get my WR1 sorted ASAP. Hope it's nothing serious


Cheers Paul

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Hi Paul sorry not replied been busy. Mine is a 1998 think same as yours. I don't agree with that buy cheap. Something's yes other things no. That one posted looks fine, mine gives loads of stats for live data if all the sensors like exhaust etc can show you live video footage if needed.

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

1998 WR1 ?

Paulgeorge01

Thanks for all the info Jay. Went ahead & ordered that one yesterday so hopefully get it on Monday & see what's what


You getting mixed up with the car & MY . Don't worry I do too as I have 3 of them just now


A poorly 54 plate WR1 with only 35k.
99 uk classic turbo. Had full rebuild at 135k, just away to fit ns & os new rear quarter panel sections & sills.
56 plate wrx wagon.


Better half is saying I am getting out of order & have to get rid of one


Guess the wagon has to go soon.


Cheers Paul

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Hi Paul no not getting mixed up, i own a 1998 impreza, not a WR1. I also own a 2004 Bugeye. Works with both cars fine.

Paulgeorge01

Oh ok Jay that's good it will do all my Scoobys.


Thanks for the offer of a video that's much appreciated. Will see how I get on but if I'm struggling I might just take you up on that offer.


Cheers Paul

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

A 2004 Bugeye is rare .

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Ok let us know how you get on.

Paulgeorge01

Hi All,

Purchased the code reader & it worked a treat throwing up code P0230 Fuel pump primary circuit.

I had a feeling that this was the problem as the fuel pump prime on turning on the ignition was very faint so was expecting it to be either the fuel pump relay, fuel pump (not so much as car has only 35k) open circuit in the wiring or bad connection in the wiring on the fuel circuit. The day after the problem I tried the ignition on again & the fuel pump was completely dead with no prime turnover on the pump whatsoever.

Starting troubleshooting yesterday from the start of the circuit.

Checked power at the main fuse board (engine bay) across the terminals for slow blow fuse 5 (relay supply) fine.

Checked continuity through SBF 5. Fine. Checked the relevant ground. Fine

Gave the fuel pump relay (B46-Green-4 pole) a wiggle around & a push in. Not the easiest to get to & hard on my bald head on the carpet upsides down!!!

Car now starts & runs every time (have tried it 8 times over 2 days) with obviously the fuel pump priming every time nice & loud as it should be confirming a proper electrical supply to it. Haven’t taken it for a run yet though

Personally I will be ordering a new relay as I don’t think it was that the relay was loose or there was a bad contact I think the relay is on it’s way out & has an intermittent fault so will change it out when new one arrives as don’t want to get stuck again. Then if it happens again I know it will be a bad connection or the pump as I don’t think I have an open circuit now. This happened to me with my V5 classic turbo & it was an intermittent fault with the relay that was the problem there.

Now that the caris running fine being there is now no fault present at the moment I would expect the CEL light to go out but it is still on. Is this correct?

When I read the instruction book for the code reader it states the following which is giving me some concerns about using the code reader to turn off the CEL.

Caution:Erasing the diagnostics trouble codes may allow the code reader to delete not only the codes from the vehicles on-board computer, but also the” freezeframe”& manufacturer enhanced data. Further, the I/M Readiness Monitor Status for all vehicle monitors is reset to Not Ready or Not Complete status. Do not erase the codes before the system has been checked by a technician!!!!

I am obviously new to the code reader & this is the first job I have done with it so was looking for someone to give me a sort of point in the right direction in whether I should erase the code or not as the case maybe? Or do I have to do something else prior to erasing the code to makethe other data in the aforesaid paragraph safe?


Much appreciated.


Cheers Paul