hi guys, hoping you lovely lot can help me, recently got hold of a '95 impreza wrx, when i bought it, it had a fuss about starting, we bumped it and it ran pretty much ok for the rest of that day, got it home and now basically wont start, it had a bdly spliced toad alarm butchered into the poor ol' loom, taken that out and reconnected all the wires (that im aware of), anyway, the car turns over, but the fuel pump doesnt prime, and the relay doesnt click, swapped out the relay and still no click, powered the fuel pump directly from a 12v source to check the actual pump worked, and it primed when i did that, so i thought, if i power the pump seperatley and turn the car over at the same time then fuel should definitley be getting to the engine and it should fire, but no it didnt, kept turning over, and yes ive checked the fuel lines, there all pumping as they should and not blocked, but cant get the bugger to start, please do any of you fine taste motor heads have any advice?
cheers
rob

 

Cam sensor can be the issue. I've seen it quite a few times. Cheap try as well

 

If you checked that you have fuel ,check for spark. Take out or use a spark plug and see if it's a decent spark .

 

Sounds like immobiliser problem which cuts off the fuel pump

 

Will try the cam sensor next, I also think it is the immobiliser, it played up when the toad alarm was fitted, it kept it from starting then, only occasionally letting me start, I've taken the toad unit out, well what's visible under the dash, but still having the same fault, so remnants of the immobiliser could still be there, is there a popular location or a certain area where the immobiliser will be hiding? Cheers for all the replys so far

 

Check all the fuses. Immobiliser could be hidden anywhere. Have you checked the ecu for fault codes using the self diagnostic to rule any other faults out? Then try the ecu reset trick

 

No I haven't, which 2 plugs under the dash is it?

 

Two black plugs for diagnostic and both blacks and greens for reset procedure

 

Cheers man, will try this when I get home, is there a page where the codes translate to faults on here?
Thanks for the help so far guys, reallt quick responses compared to most forums

 

If the crank sensor is disconnected or damaged it will give those symptoms.

 

Classic (JECS) ECU Reset

Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature, turn engine off
Locate the two ECU connectors, located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector
With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.
Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle, then return it to the half-throttle position and hold for a few seconds, and then release
Engine Check lamp turns on
Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.
ECU is now re-set.
At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.
Stop the car and turn off the engine.
Disconnect the black and green connectors.
Job complete


Black and Green Connectors on Classic

 

Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)

On Classic shape Impreza’s only (not Newage) faults can be displayed as pulses of the Check Engine Light. If the Check Engine Light goes out there is no fault.

In order to perform diagnostic (and ECU resets) you will need to connect some wires together under your steering column. Note, the following procedure only works for Classic shape Impreza’s, not for Newage.

Make sure your ignition is OFF
Connect the Black ‘Read Memory’ connectors together as illustrated below.


Figure 1 - Black and Green Connectors on Classic Impreza




When the above are connected you are in diagnostics mode. Turn your ignition ON and ‘read’ the ECU code(s) being reported according to the following instructions. Note, you may here relays clicking and your fan starting and stopping - this is normal when in diagnostics mode.

In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset).


Figure 2 - Check Engine Light Pulse Width




The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds).

The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.

(See Example Below)

--- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE ---

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)
(Code 23 — MAF Sensor)

--- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE ---

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)
1.8 second pause (this means NEW code)

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 11)
0.2 second pause
.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 12)
(Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit)

 

The following table shows Subaru specific trouble codes and their descriptions. See another page for generic Subaru OBDII trouble code definitions.


Code / Description

1 Engine Speed Signal Circuit
11 Crankshaft Position Sensor
12 Starter Signal
13 Camshaft Position Sensor
14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX)
18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX)
19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX)
21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
22 Knock Sensor
23 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit
24 Idle Control System Malfunction
24 ISC Valve (Stick)
24 Open/Short in ISC Valve Circuit
26 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
27 ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
28 Knock Sensor #2
29 Crankshaft Position Sensor 2
31 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
32 A/F Sensor #1 System
32 A/F Sensor #2 System
32 Oxygen Sensor
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor
35 CPC System
36 Turbine Speed Signal
37 Rear O2 Sensor Circuit / A/F Sensor Circuit Malfunction
38 Torque Control Signal #1
38 Torque Control Signal #2
38 Torque Control Signal System
38 Torque Permission Signal
39 Traction Control System
41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control
42 Idle Switch
43 Accelerator Pedal Switch
44 Turbocharging Pressure Control Signal
45 Pressure Sensor
46 Neutral or Parking Switch or Circuit
47 Fuel Injector
48 Lean Burn System
49 CO Resistor
51 Neutral Position Switch
52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy)
53 Antenna
53 Anti-Quick Operation Mode
53 Communication Error (Time Over)
53 EGI Control Module EEPROM
53 IMM Circuit Failure (Except Antenna Circuit)
53 IMM Control Module EEPROM
53 Key Communication Failure
53 Reference Code Incompatibility
53 Use of Unregistered Key
54 Air Intake System
55 EGR Valve Lift Sensor
56 EGR System
57 Canister Control System
58 Air Control System
61 Air Suction Control Solenoid Valve
62 Exhaust Manifold Valve Negative Pressure Control Solenoid
64 Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve 1
64 Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve 2
65 Differential Pressure Sensor
66 Twin Turbocharger System(H)
66 Twin Turbocharger System(S)
66 Twin Turbocharger System(T)
66 Two Stage Twin Turbocharger System
67 Exhaust Manifold Valve Positive Pressure Control Solenoid
68 Turbocharging Pressure Control Output Signal #2
71 Shift Solenoid Valve
72 Shift Solenoid #2 Circuit
73 Low Clutch Timing Solenoid Circuit
74 Brake Clutch Timing Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
75 Line Pressure Duty Solenoid Circuit
76 Brake Clutch Pressure Duty Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
77 Lock-Up Duty Solenoid Circuit
78 Tiptronic Solenoid System
79 Transfer Clutch Duty Solenoid Circuit
81 Torque Up Control Valve
85 Charger System Circuit Malfunction
86 CAN (Communication System)
87 Variable Induction Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
88 Fuel Pump Circuit Malfunction
89 VVT Systems (L)
89 VVT Systems ®
91 TCS Relief Valve
92 Electrical Generation Control Signal Circuit Malfunction
93 Vehicle Speed Sensor #1 Circuit
94 Lateral G Sensor Signal Circuit Malfunction

 

eughhh right, been in the wire pit that is my dash, connected the 2 black fault read connectors and nothing, turn ignition on and theres no check engine light, just usual, battery and handbrake, im stumped lol even my car dont know whats going on

 

gonna have to put my snorkel on and go immobiliser diving

 

You can utilize the snorkel concealed by your car's driver side front wing.

 

eughhh, looking for an immobiliser that dont exist, the toad alarm system i had taken out is this one.. which happens to be both an alarm and the immobilser, so i dont know if there any stray wires or something left behind being funny ****ers, somethings stopping the spark, and its not the plugs cause the car ran when bumped, just the initial spark, so confusing

 

changed the main relay, cause i figured maybe the lack of check engine light is due to power loss somewhere, first port of call was a main relay but no, still no check engine light and no spark, dammit this is ****ing frustrating

 

right so this is where i began this morning https://www.flickr.com/photos/127162...2/14825577658/ after tidying up wires that had been cut and taped together with connection blocks (yes i know these are bad but i dont want solder them and then realise ill have to take them out again later if its not right or something), anyway everything connected, engine cranks still no spark like usual, started using the wiring diagrams for the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump and the main relay to follow the wires back as far possible check everythings good, seems to be, the area which had the most cut wires to accommodate the alarm and immobiliser was the wires coming from the ignition barrel, but i cant seem to find a wiring diagram on that area. once i had finished tidying up the cuts and what not, i went around trying to find wires which hadnt been connected/loose and earth points which werent connected, anyway heres what i found, if anyone could shed some light if these are similar in your loom and which are aftermarket/part of the old alarm system. anyway heres some pics of what i found drivers side.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/127162...2/14825469629/ this is a loose red wire with silver blobs (which i think cause of the colour coding is original). its located up by the footwell fusebox, i checked all the connectors in that area looking for empty crimps it may have come out of, but cant see any, any ideas on this one?
right next.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/127162...n/photostream/ i have this loose grey block connector which runs down the side of that fuse box but i cant find anywhere to plug it in? maybe a factory extra not in my car?
next.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/127162...n/photostream/ this is an earthing point, just below the drivers side fan vent, next to the door, anyway the wire cut is black with red?, again i dont know if this is aftermarket or original.
this one.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/127162...n/photostream/ this is towards the bottom of the footwell, coming into the well through the wing, a black and yellow and a red and yellow, not sure again on this?
also this one https://www.flickr.com/photos/127162...n/photostream/ an earth on the left side of the centre console, but i have a feeling this was for a set of gauges that were in there that i took out, if not let me know?

well thats all ive found so far, please if anyone knows anything on this let me know?, really trying to avoid the expensive mobile auto electrician haha

 

sorry about image links, havent figured the uploading picture malarky, i tried the attach image but the links died when i posted them

 

I'm not great when it comes to wiring but I'm sure someone will know where it all goes. To post your images if you click on the little box with the symbol(looks like a mountain range with a tiny small square,if you look at the quick reply box below you will see it the little box 2nd from the end) it will open a box up,paste URL in there on it will post the image to your thread just make sure there isn't http in there twice

 

Digging up an old thread here. How did you go with your start issue?

 

Yup, i'm interested too. How did this pan out?

Just started 14 day self-isolation... Free time to read everything on the internet.

Anyway I hope you got it sorted without reaching too far into your pockets.

From those photos it looks like you put in a good effort