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ESL 'safe' mode

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Old 18 April 2019, 01:15 PM
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Ash Webster
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Default ESL 'safe' mode

Quick question - as mentioned in previous posts i have had to reset my ECU due to CEL...

however upon resetting it it doesnt always seem to give me boost again (still stuck at 0.5 / 0.7 bar)

my mapper said it takes time for the ecu to give back boost control after a reset, but didnt state how long

any ideas?

Ash
Old 18 April 2019, 03:05 PM
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ossett2k2
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Boost should be as set by the mapper straight after a reset.
Old 18 April 2019, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Ash Webster
Quick question - as mentioned in previous posts i have had to reset my ECU due to CEL...

however upon resetting it it doesnt always seem to give me boost again (still stuck at 0.5 / 0.7 bar)

my mapper said it takes time for the ecu to give back boost control after a reset, but didnt state how long

any ideas?

Ash
Have you tried switching the maps
Old 18 April 2019, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2
Boost should be as set by the mapper straight after a reset.
boost or boost control (or both)... I've reset it using the green/black connectors and get a flashing CEL, or by d/c the battery overnight.. same result

Originally Posted by supshon
Have you tried switching the maps
its the original without the motorsport pack so not switchable maps
Old 18 April 2019, 03:46 PM
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Maps are switchable,even without motorsport pack.
Make sure you haven't switched by mistake.

You should have full boost after reset.
Old 18 April 2019, 04:35 PM
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0.5-0.7 is wastegate pressure. Check that the actuator rod is still attached to the wastegate and that the wastegate actuator is still operational
Old 18 April 2019, 05:06 PM
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Ash Webster
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I’ve just reset it again and went out . Boosted fine (car was warm obv) then stopped, (engine still running) and tried again back to 0.5/7 bar. Not even a CEL this time . Turned engine off and black connectors in and no code.

So its ESL turning off my boost surely?
Old 18 April 2019, 05:22 PM
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Could be detting or overboosing causing the ecu to pull timing and boost.
What did the mapper set boost at and what is your boost after reset when it hits full boost?
Old 18 April 2019, 05:36 PM
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Ash Webster
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It’s always been around 1.2 peak. He mapped in my fmic bcs and fpr , and tbh it’s been perfectly fine apart from the CEL but that’s a historic fault. I’m just lost with what’s happening at the moment with all this boost cutting and safe moding...

Can’t I just get rid of these features? (obviously at my own risk)
Old 18 April 2019, 05:42 PM
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I’m not trying to be obtuse btw just this is doin my head in all the money I’ve spent on the car over the years and it’s being held back by a worn sensor circuit and an ecu which should be able to ignore it
Old 18 April 2019, 05:52 PM
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Does it overshoot the 1.2? Do you feel the fuel cut on full gas?
Old 18 April 2019, 06:04 PM
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Before it happens? Possibly... it’s hard to tell. But after it happens the revs just keep rising but the pressure stops at 0.5/7

what doesn’t it mean if it is before?

and also you said something about accidentally switching maps - how will I have done this if even I could?
Old 18 April 2019, 06:23 PM
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Map switching is page 9 in the manual.
Is it driving at 1.2bar for a while?
Or pulling boost after 1 pull?
I doubt you have switched maps if you get full boost then limp
Old 24 April 2019, 01:53 PM
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i dont have the manual haha!

drove it today for the first time since thurs and it boosted fine.... even though i swear the last time i was in it was after a reset and it wasnt giving me the full boost - i'm lost...

ill give it some beans on the way home from work and see if it cuts over 1.2 back into safe mode (without CEL)... if it does then its a different issue no?

Cheers for the input btw i do appreciate it
Old 24 April 2019, 02:01 PM
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My guess would be that when the ECU is reset, the initial IAM is set to be 16, but at some point in the the rev range, it's detecting enough knock to start reducing the IAM down, which is in turn, reducing the boost. The only way to tell if this is what's happing, will be to do some logging with the the ESL cable and software.
Old 24 April 2019, 02:02 PM
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Manual available here:
http://www.enduringsolutions.com/wp-.../04/Manual.pdf
Old 24 April 2019, 02:26 PM
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Ash Webster
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It is possible I might have switched maps - but like you say theres no real way to tell without software.. Also is switching the map not risky if i dont know whats on the other map?

All i know with regards to the map is that when i got it back from the mapper it ran perfectly until the CEL came on (which is an historic fault). like it boosted and held boost fine, no cut offs no safe mode etc..

If it cuts off over 1.2 then i might try switching the map and seeing if that makes a difference, as long as its not a massive risk to the engine..

Probably going to invest in a course and the software at some point.. The last one was this weekend which was a bit bad timing though./// oh and obviously im sorting out the knock sensor circuit wiring as soon as i can... ugh

Last edited by Ash Webster; 24 April 2019 at 02:29 PM.
Old 24 April 2019, 02:32 PM
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If you don't know what's on the other map, it could potentially be a massive risk to the engine in my opinion.

It might be worth trying to see if there's anyone on here, near to you that has the ESL data cable, and would help you with some logging.
Old 24 April 2019, 04:15 PM
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agreed! ...


Anyone?

i can give you some gel STI badges
Old 24 April 2019, 04:29 PM
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You can tell which map without software
The tuner will have mapped map1(ask?) Map1 is 1 flash map2 flash twice.

Every time you reset you're resetting fuel trims,knock control table and boost errors(I think)
Just drive around pretty gentle for a few miles,50 ish,get the ecu learning.

Cable and software are a must imo,just so you can see what's going on.
I'm a bit far out pal or I would take some data logs.
Old 25 April 2019, 10:06 AM
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leeds isnt that far haha

drove it again this morning and after giving it 10 mins slow drive to warm up tried again....back to no boost, no CEL, didnt even reach peak just didnt even let me try... plugged in black connectors and no code... im so lost.

im 95% sure its not a mechanical issue as like i have said when i got it back from the mapper it was perfect

in all honesty though i could get to Leeds if youre free one weekend (soon ish) and ill bring a crate as thanks? would be nice to see first hand the kind of problems
Old 25 April 2019, 10:07 AM
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as above the ECU will disable the boost solenoid if the IAM drops low enough. What is the "historic fault" you had though, if its something like knock sensor/maf then could be it's still broken and giving the ecu a false reading which is resulting in the IAM drop but you'll be chasing your tail until you can get a laptop plugged into it to see what's actually happening.
Old 25 April 2019, 11:16 AM
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the car is MAFless mapped so it cant be the maf.... although it is still in situe until i buy a new cold air intake pipe.

its the knock sensor circuit wiring thats the historic fault - intermittent and its not the sensor itself as ive replaced it and then still get the same warning a few days later.

aye agreed - though i think first on the agenda is the wiring then at least i can rule out that error... (assuming the sensor is torqued up fine etc..)
Old 25 April 2019, 11:29 AM
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I'm just in the middle of mapping in my bcs(3 port) 1st run underboost(1.3bar),2nd run overboost,also feels laggy,didn't fuel cut tho even when hitting 1.7bar.(I'm set to 1.6)
Thought it might be a quick,simple tweak and for sure a pro would do it faster,but I don't think it should be rushed?
Can I ask how long was spent by your tuner mapping in those mods?
As bludgod says,possibly faulty knock sensor?
Didn't you say you were fitting a new one? You done that yet?
Life's a bit hectic atm,moving house next month,but I'm sure I can spare an hour to do some data logging and to see what's going on.
I will not be altering any of the map tho,can give you the log files tho and screenshot your map.
Are you only free on weekends? I work shifts so get time off through the week and work some weekends.
Old 25 April 2019, 11:30 AM
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Give the mating surface on the block where the sensor sits a clean too while its off.
Old 25 April 2019, 11:47 AM
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its a new OEM sensor and it threw the same code after a few days .. and the surface looked relatively clean although the bolt isnt perfect i guess...

1.6 bar? nice... I'd love to be able to run a bit higher boost but i think i need to get these problems ironed out before i go putting the engine under more tension..

I've no idea how long he spent mapping tbh - i had the FMIC, 3 Port BCS and FPR fitted at the garage and then he came and mapped it the next day - but again it was perfectly fine for the first few days, held boost, etc.. until the error 22 which ive had for years...

Awesome - yeh obviously i wouldnt expect you to touch the map - just narrowing down the problem or finding out a hidden issue would be great - unfortunately i do work all week so only free on weekends - let me know when youre free and ill happily nip down for an hour or so and it would be greatly appreciated as i dont really get to see the map in action at all - what i will try to do before then (hopefully this weekend) is get the knock sensor wiring harness sorted (get an auto elec to wire it staright to ECU) so either that fixes the error 22 or at least shows its not that thats the problem..
Old 25 April 2019, 12:00 PM
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Cool,let us know how you get on with the new wiring.
I'll see what weekend is best and we can plug it in. You don't have an obd2 port do you? Shouldn't have if it a v3 but these cars are funny on the my97/98 change.
Old 25 April 2019, 12:48 PM
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yes if your flagging a code for the knock sensor you'll be pretty much down to IAM0 (very little ignition advance, no wastegate duty) as soon as it's flagged. Check the wiring continuity from the loom to the ECU - check the wire shielding too as faults there can give funky readings then you should be good to go.

ossett2k2 - 3port setup shouldn't be all that tough, even when going form a good 2port tune to a 3port tune i'll still start with a flat wastegate duty (say 40% max) and work up from there. Check the response on spool up in a fairly high gear 4th or 5th just up to spool up then you should be OK to do the rest in 3rd gear if your stuck with road tuning. Give me a shout if you want someone to check over the logs
Old 25 April 2019, 12:58 PM
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yeh i will do - its SSM not OBD yup

ill try to get an auto elec out this weekend if not i know one whos returning from holiday on monday
Old 25 April 2019, 01:06 PM
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Cheers bludgod,only just got the car back out,managed 2 power runs in 2 days lol.
Forgot laptop today so will have a run tomorrow,see if my adjustments worked.
I did initially take 10% out across the wg tables but was hitting bellow target and only hitting 1bar@4k rpm,added some wg duty back in but overshooting,think I need to up it a tiny amount at a time,seems a lot more sensitive to changes than the 2 port.
I'll also recheck pipes as I was only logging 88% where I was set to 98% on initial spool up.


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