Wull

As above really.....

My track car is running a full decat system and only has the one o2 sensor in the headers. My eml is on and the code is for the rear o2 sensor, bank 1 sensor 2.

Now the car runs fine, afr is slightly ot at ideal but bang on everywhere else.

Now I’m led to believe that it can be mapped out, and apparently mine is switched off but it clearly isn’t, it’s getting checked over again tomorrow so we’ll check this again so hopefully the light will be off.

Question is, when it’s priperly mapped out, and the ecu is no longer searching for readings how does it adjust or settle down with a better afr @ idle?

As far as I’m aware, all the sensors are switched off so I can’t fathom why the light is coming on for the rear sensor.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

P0037 is "rear o2 low input" so likely not all the codes have been switched off for it (P0037/P0038/P0136/P0139/P0420) and if it's a WRX with the uppipe cat removed you can also bin the EGT sensor odes (P0546/P0545/P1312/P1544). It's also important to remove the sensors as well as disable the codes. The code disable prevents errors from being flagged but if the ECU is getting input from the sensor (be it right or wrong data) you can still end up with strange things happening.

On most cars the rear o2 isn't doing much for AFR correction, the input is used with a light adjustment to AFR to confirm if the cat is working.

The front o2 and MAF sensors are doing all the heavy lifting in respect to corrections - what readings are you getting at idle and what's your A/F learning/correction values looking like? For a track car i'm guessing you're on a speed density setup so might be a little tweak to the VE table needed. If your still on MAF then it could be a sensor on the way out or a simple air or exhaust leak in the system.

Wull

All sorted now, it was still switched on.

No eml now.

Afr is spot on, there was a slight tear in one of the vacuum pipes to the inlet manifold, it was hidden by the FMIC pipe so I removed it and cut away the bit that was torn, all good now.

We managed to get it running 1.4bar and it was pulling well, only issue I'm having now is switching between boost settings and knowing whether I'm in low or high. I'm not sure whether it works sometimes when I do the "foot to the floor & press de-mister switch" because sometimes it doesn't feel any different.

I've ordered a boost gauge so I can actually see what boost I'm getting.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

ahhh ECUTek man - believe can switch maps with the ECUConnect+ phone app now as well but hard to beat a proper gauge in your eye line especially on a track car. Look for some oil pressure/temp as well to complete the set if you don't have already.

Wull

That’s the plan but I’ve only ordered the boost gauge just now as I need to know for sure......the car needs to get a power and weight test for sls and it’s no use if I don’t know what setting it’s on.

domino46

going by there site its only 04+ that allows for map switching via the app

thanks for the info though as didn't even know it existed lol