Engine won't turn over
After eventually getting my inlet manifold back on after 2 months
and all connections back in place(thanks JGM) i got round to trying to start it. The engine attempts to crank once and then nothing - every time. What could be causing this (in idiot fashion please) and where should i start looking.
Cheers
Barry
and all connections back in place(thanks JGM) i got round to trying to start it. The engine attempts to crank once and then nothing - every time. What could be causing this (in idiot fashion please) and where should i start looking.Cheers
Barry
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
More than likely an earth fault.. put the windscreen wipers or headlights on.. do they stop when you crank it?
Erm.. Theres an earth on the back right of the inlet manifold...
Check the following connections
ISCV
TPS
Injectors wires All cylinders
CoilPack Wires.
cant think what else you may have disconnected / disturbed..
Does it fire or simply wont crank?
And dont rule out a flat battery..
David
[Edited by David_Wallis - 20/06/2003 18:05:15]
Erm.. Theres an earth on the back right of the inlet manifold...
Check the following connections
ISCV
TPS
Injectors wires All cylinders
CoilPack Wires.
cant think what else you may have disconnected / disturbed..
Does it fire or simply wont crank?
And dont rule out a flat battery..
David
[Edited by David_Wallis - 20/06/2003 18:05:15]
Another thought that I posted on 22B was:
Does it turn then stop really violently? It's possible if it does this that you have got a problem with the injectors not sealing properly and when the pumps pressurise the system they fill the inlet ports up with fuel. As you crank the engine the valves open, fill the bores with fule and the engine hydraulics...not good...
I've done this in case you were wondering and Pat spotted it imediately!
Does it turn then stop really violently? It's possible if it does this that you have got a problem with the injectors not sealing properly and when the pumps pressurise the system they fill the inlet ports up with fuel. As you crank the engine the valves open, fill the bores with fule and the engine hydraulics...not good...
I've done this in case you were wondering and Pat spotted it imediately!
Tim, i hope you're wrong
. I tried the wiper thing, they stop as soon as i try to turn the key, 1 cough of the engine then nothing - battery is connected to battery of another car which is running. Any way i can properly diagnose this or do i need an auto electrician or even worse. Thanks for your help guys
[Edited by BazH - 20/06/2003 19:01:03]
. I tried the wiper thing, they stop as soon as i try to turn the key, 1 cough of the engine then nothing - battery is connected to battery of another car which is running. Any way i can properly diagnose this or do i need an auto electrician or even worse. Thanks for your help guys[Edited by BazH - 20/06/2003 19:01:03]
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
sorry that was a double post..
It is an earth or power fault.. simple as..
Check the battery terminals are tight.. Check jump leads are thick enough and getting A good connection..
If you have another jump lead clip one between the negative on the battery and the engine block / inlet manifold and see if that makes it run..
Eitherway you should be able to fix it yourself..
Check the main wire that runs from the battery to starter is tight..
Check the main earth from battery to block / starter is fitted and tight with clean connections.. also check the earth bolted above the passenger headlight..
It will then start.. I promise.
David
It is an earth or power fault.. simple as..
Check the battery terminals are tight.. Check jump leads are thick enough and getting A good connection..
If you have another jump lead clip one between the negative on the battery and the engine block / inlet manifold and see if that makes it run..
Eitherway you should be able to fix it yourself..
Check the main wire that runs from the battery to starter is tight..
Check the main earth from battery to block / starter is fitted and tight with clean connections.. also check the earth bolted above the passenger headlight..
It will then start.. I promise.
David
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
I thought from the other thread you had it running..
Def sounds like battery or earth doesn't it..
Were are you at?
If the bat gets very very low the other car will simply be charging your battery and still not enough to turn the car over too.. could try revving the other car (not high revs but higher than tick over) and have it connected for a few minutes or charging the battery on a charger..
Or put a volt meter on it etc... new battery..
I have had similar problems with my bike.. of all things..
placed a volt meter on it to find 0volts.. took three days on charger to get 12+volts when charger disconnected.. car battery a bit better though..
JGM
Def sounds like battery or earth doesn't it..
Were are you at?
If the bat gets very very low the other car will simply be charging your battery and still not enough to turn the car over too.. could try revving the other car (not high revs but higher than tick over) and have it connected for a few minutes or charging the battery on a charger..
Or put a volt meter on it etc... new battery..
I have had similar problems with my bike.. of all things..
placed a volt meter on it to find 0volts.. took three days on charger to get 12+volts when charger disconnected.. car battery a bit better though..
JGM
running.........i wish. Will carry out more checks tomorrow
and then i'll be back asking more questions
but i feel it's nearly there - apart from the fuel p1shing out yesterday, then somebody calling my mobile at the same time 
and then i'll be back asking more questions
but i feel it's nearly there - apart from the fuel p1shing out yesterday, then somebody calling my mobile at the same time 
The fuel problem was because the gasket hadn't sealed correctly, now resolved, and the phone kept wat out of range
Checked all those things today, car still did not start - assumed battery was sh*gged went to remove it........hmm whats that wet stuff
hands now rinsed under cold tap and confirmation that battery is indeed buggered. New one on order will see how it goes next time
Checked all those things today, car still did not start - assumed battery was sh*gged went to remove it........hmm whats that wet stuff
hands now rinsed under cold tap and confirmation that battery is indeed buggered. New one on order will see how it goes next time
Baz, don't fit a stock battery they're too expensive!
I bought a Varta battery that's smaller and only cost me 40 quid, not 80 that the correct size one did.
I don't know the full model number as the only pic I have ove it partially covers it, but it's a B18'?' and is 12V 43Ah, 390A
The standard battery is 47Ah, but I don't have any power draining things like Aircon, or loads of stereo, the 390A is the cranking current which is the same as standard.
I bought a Varta battery that's smaller and only cost me 40 quid, not 80 that the correct size one did.
I don't know the full model number as the only pic I have ove it partially covers it, but it's a B18'?' and is 12V 43Ah, 390A
The standard battery is 47Ah, but I don't have any power draining things like Aircon, or loads of stereo, the 390A is the cranking current which is the same as standard.
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