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I don't know, I have a slight incline down to my garage and have done some starts and stops there so that should have helped.
I did spread out the tightening sequence when tightening the pressure plate trying to get it down evenly, but perhaps not enough.
I put a socket with a long extension bar on the clutch fork and I think I was able to move it longer than the slave cylinder has been able to, but I didn't start the car to see if that helped the issue. I did order a new genuine 5 speed slave actually, my original one seemed to be a bit sticky so I'll try to find some time to test the new one this weekend. Could it be that these high torque pressure plates are on the limit of what the stock slave and master cylinder are able to handle?
Last edited by Turbovin; 29 August 2018 at 01:25 AM.
I don't know, I have a slight incline down to my garage and have done some starts and stops there so that should have helped.
I did spread out the tightening sequence when tightening the pressure plate trying to get it down evenly, but perhaps not enough.
I put a socket with a long extension bar on the clutch fork and I think I was able to move it longer than the slave cylinder has been able to, but I didn't start the car to see if that helped the issue. I did order a new genuine 5 speed slave actually, my original one seemed to be a bit sticky so I'll try to find some time to test the new one this weekend. Could it be that these high torque pressure plates are on the limit of what the stock slave and master cylinder are able to handle?
Did tell you at the start of the thread it didn't look like you were getting enough travel on the fork and also said to get someone with a bar to try and move it and see could you get it into gear. We have a triple plate exedy and a five speed cylinder operates that the very best. 99% of problems are down to poor bleeding. Take it off G clamp it and bleed it with the nipple at the top
New slave cylinder was fitted today and bled one time after the install and one more time later this evening. At first I thought there was a slight improvement but later I think it felt just like before. We also forced the fork open a bit more with a bar and that didn't really make that much of a difference (with the engine running) so I'm fairly sure it has nothing to do with the slave cylinder/clutch hydraulics/fork operation at all. It has got to be some issue with the clutch itself. With the car in neutral and the clutch pressed down, when trying to get into first gear or reverse I can feel and see the car trying to move like a centimeter so clearly the clutch isn't disengaging fully.
I can get it into gear with a little bit of force, reverse seems easier than first. Shifting gears when driving seems ok without any grinding.
Clearly I have to get the gearbox removed to see what's going on but I don't know how much I should rush it. I don't know how harmful this is for the gearbox, clearly not good but it's not like I'll be driving the car anyway because it needs mapping and vehicle inspection before I can use it properly on the road.
I'll leave it for now and concentrate on getting my Link G4+ installed/wired up and maybe remove the gearbox during the winter instead.
Last edited by Turbovin; 02 September 2018 at 01:06 AM.
Just buy a cheap *** USB bore scope camera to stick in and do what I said to do ages ago and get a visual on how much clearance there is when the pedal is depressed
You're just wasting time and effort doing anything else because you need to see once and for all if it is releasing and by how much. Or if it is not.
And it's very easy to drill a small spot on the fork arm slightly lower down and move the actuating link bad down a little which will give more fork travel should it be needed.
But if it has not got clearance, then yes the clutch will need to come out. If it has got adequate clearance then you need to look at other options
Last edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo; 02 September 2018 at 01:20 AM.
You must have missed the link I posted of that then, it's very difficult to get a good look of what's going on down there with one of them. I'll try again to see if it possible to get a view of the disc but I doubt it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oL7-...ature=youtu.be
You need a camera looking at the side to get this view. This should be doable from the window on the top of the BH on the right side of the vehicle, or remove the starter and poke the camera in through there.
Or find....or drill a suitable hole somewhere underneath. The cameras are tiny so very accessible...and get a side view where you can actually see the friction disc. ( this photo is a twin plate but you get the idea )
This is a good video to basically show what you're looking to see. Although with the clutch on the bench as per this twin it wont free up quite the same simply because of the weight of the parts. But in a single, as installed you should easily be able to see the cover release the disc and by how much.
New slave cylinder was fitted today and bled one time after the install and one more time later this evening. At first I thought there was a slight improvement but later I think it felt just like before. We also forced the fork open a bit more with a bar and that didn't really make that much of a difference (with the engine running) so I'm fairly sure it has nothing to do with the slave cylinder/clutch hydraulics/fork operation at all. It has got to be some issue with the clutch itself. With the car in neutral and the clutch pressed down, when trying to get into first gear or reverse I can feel and see the car trying to move like a centimeter so clearly the clutch isn't disengaging fully.
I can get it into gear with a little bit of force, reverse seems easier than first. Shifting gears when driving seems ok without any grinding.
Clearly I have to get the gearbox removed to see what's going on but I don't know how much I should rush it. I don't know how harmful this is for the gearbox, clearly not good but it's not like I'll be driving the car anyway because it needs mapping and vehicle inspection before I can use it properly on the road.
I'll leave it for now and concentrate on getting my Link G4+ installed/wired up and maybe remove the gearbox during the winter instead.
My ACT was fitted by a Subaru Pro who fits clutches on a regular basis so 100% confident it was done properly. Mine is difficult to engage 1st gear with the engine running but shifts perfectly well out on the road. Personally I don't think there's anymore you can do except put in a different clutch. Prehaps someone else who has this clutch can comment?
Trev
New slave cylinder was fitted today and bled one time after the install and one more time later this evening. At first I thought there was a slight improvement but later I think it felt just like before. We also forced the fork open a bit more with a bar and that didn't really make that much of a difference (with the engine running) so I'm fairly sure it has nothing to do with the slave cylinder/clutch hydraulics/fork operation at all. It has got to be some issue with the clutch itself. With the car in neutral and the clutch pressed down, when trying to get into first gear or reverse I can feel and see the car trying to move like a centimeter so clearly the clutch isn't disengaging fully.
I can get it into gear with a little bit of force, reverse seems easier than first. Shifting gears when driving seems ok without any grinding.
Clearly I have to get the gearbox removed to see what's going on but I don't know how much I should rush it. I don't know how harmful this is for the gearbox, clearly not good but it's not like I'll be driving the car anyway because it needs mapping and vehicle inspection before I can use it properly on the road.
I'll leave it for now and concentrate on getting my Link G4+ installed/wired up and maybe remove the gearbox during the winter instead.
Well it appears like the disc has clearance but as soon as I ran the engine on the starter with the fuel pump fuse disconnected I could feel the car trying to move forward. I did record a video with the engine in a different position and there it didn't have as much clearance. I also noticed that it's much harder to get into gear, almost impossible, when the gearbox has warmed up. Unfortunately the clutch is out of warranty anyway as I bought it over 2 years ago and it could be an installation error just as well. If it wouldn't be so expensive to ship the clutch from Sweden to ACT in the USA for inspection that could have been an alternative.
I don't know what clutch to buy instead, competition clutch seem to have their issues as well, as does Exedy.
I don't have a lift in my garage so I have to decide if i should remove the engine again or let a workshop remove the gearbox instead. Anyway a JDM DCCD 6 speed is too much money for me to wear down with a non 100% releasing clutch.
Last edited by Turbovin; 07 September 2018 at 06:37 PM.
Yes they're something to consider too. I think the ACT SB10-XTSS was a bit overkill for my needs anyway (rated to 590 ft/lbs), it will only need to hold the torque from a 450-480 bhp 2.1 AVCS stroker.
So I removed my engine and fitted a Competition clutch stage 2 instead and everything works fine now. I had the ACT flywheel lightly resurfaced as it had some hot spots. Similar marks on the pressure plate. Didn't see anything obviously wrong with the parts otherwise but who knows. One thing I noticed was that the outer ring in the center of the clutch cover was fairly loose against the springs and could be moved sideways. It was rock solid on my new Competition clutch and my old 5 speed Exedy had very little play in that in comparison also. I don't if that makes any difference in disengaging the clutch cover unevenly, I guess the clutch fork centers the throwout bearing pretty good.
The difference in selecting gears is huge. I'm glad I removed the ACT clutch, wouldn't have been good running it like that.
Last edited by Turbovin; 16 September 2018 at 09:28 PM.
Yes it would be nice, and it's not like I'm throwing an expensive clutch away. But it costs me about £75-80 just to ship the clutch to ACT in the USA for inspection, and I think they charge $50 for inspecting it outside warranty. But I'll ask them about it. I'll see if I can get a vid of the clearance with the competition clutch.
Yes it would be nice, and it's not like I'm throwing an expensive clutch away. But it costs me about £75-80 just to ship the clutch to ACT in the USA for inspection, and I think they charge $50 for inspecting it outside warranty. But I'll ask them about it. I'll see if I can get a vid of the clearance with the competition clutch.
No I didn't. The Competition clutch stage 2 has worked so great that I forgot or ignored the ACT clutch completely, but I still have it. But shipping from Sweden is quite expensive so it's not going to happen that I'm shipping it back to the US for an inspection which propably would cost as well. I can't justify spending any more money on this clutch than I already have. Maybe if there's some place closer to me in europe but I doubt it.
29 August 2018, 01:23 AM
