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Would you change the clutch in the scenario?

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Old 19 May 2017, 12:11 PM   #1
Ben_r1
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Default Would you change the clutch in the scenario?

Afternoon all.

right dilemma here can't decide what's for the best.
have a ring trip in 3 weeks, 5 days and intend to do a fair few laps in that time.
Cars a 2004 Sti running a modest 315bhp and treated well with no launches or silly driving.
Clutch bite point has always been high but over the past few months it feels higher than usual, nearly top of pedal travel to fully engage clutch. It has never shown any signs of slip or judder etc.

Now obviously I don't want it to give up on me in Germany many miles away so debating if it's best to change myself as a precaution but at 600 with flywheel and the hassle of ripping the box out on the driveway a week before a ring trip I'm tempted to risk it and leave everything alone, if it ain't broke don't fix it kinda deal.

So what would you do? Assume it'll be okay despite high bite point suggesting a lot of wear or play it safe and perform a major operation on her before a long road trip?

Cars on 110k and as far as I know the original clutch, purchased it on 80k with an extensive and complete history but no mention of a clutch.

Last edited by Ben_r1; 19 May 2017 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 19 May 2017, 04:16 PM   #2
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Get it done for piece of mind as it's on your mind now doing your head in
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Old 19 May 2017, 04:37 PM   #3
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Is it a necessity to change or skim the flywheel at the same time? I've done countless clutches on cars over 100k re using flywheel with no problems in the past but the subaru stockists make a big point of voiding warranty if not done
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Old 19 May 2017, 04:40 PM   #4
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I would have it changed, it would be a complete ball ache if it gave up over there and could ruin your trip.
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Old 19 May 2017, 05:15 PM   #5
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Recommendations on clutch kit? Only running 330bhp could I get away with an OE item?
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Old 19 May 2017, 05:33 PM   #6
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Don't go for the light weight item on the flywheel part spoils the drive imo although revs up quicker
I went for a rcm lightweight item when changing clutch in my last bug big mistake as I didn't like the drive would have cost half the price for a brand new genuine item but there was nothing wrong with the rcm flywheel just me



clutch wise for me has to be pink exedy all the way watch out for fakes
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Old 19 May 2017, 07:38 PM   #7
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I believe minimum requirement would be to skim current fly wheel if putting new clutch on, most go for new flywheel because they want a lighter one for quick up rpm and quick down rpm.
But yes at that mileage if stock clutch and bite height is worrying you which is obvious lol
I'd get a new clutch in there if that long journey
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Old 19 May 2017, 08:11 PM   #8
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Ok thanks chaps. Next question...

How bad of a job is it? Considering I'll be doing it on a driveway, I have use of a transmission jack so no problems there.
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Old 19 May 2017, 08:17 PM   #9
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Possible if your mechanical minded and willing to lay on your back with that heavy *** 6 speed, unless you do engine out hoist option
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Old 19 May 2017, 08:34 PM   #10
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Yeah I'm a fitter by trade past 15 years, done countless clutches from Clios to transits etc. and done all my own work on the Scooby including cambelt, up pipe, new sump and so on.

Looks like I'll be busy next weekend then!
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Old 20 May 2017, 03:49 AM   #11
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having done many many clutches iv always found it much easier to pull the engine out the top rather than doing the box on your back ,, as a quick fix when iv been skint iv just stuck a recon plate in ,, cost all of 30 to have redone and didnt skim the fly and it worked a treat for around 2 years @ 380bhp , then I replaced the lot but wasn't due to anything going wrong I just went for more power so needed a uprated item or it would of last much longer
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Old 20 May 2017, 08:48 AM   #12
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we carry pretty much all options on the shelf from OE to competition.........

0191-4103770
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Old 20 May 2017, 08:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben_r1 View Post
Ok thanks chaps. Next question...

How bad of a job is it? Considering I'll be doing it on a driveway, I have use of a transmission jack so no problems there.
Wouldn't advise it but has been done so not impossible to do but defo use axle stands aswell
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Old 20 May 2017, 10:59 AM   #14
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From what I can see it seems straight forward.

Front shafts out
Downpipe off
Prop off
Gear stick out
Bell housing bolts
Pull gearbox back

Missing any major steps?
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Old 20 May 2017, 11:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domino46 View Post
having done many many clutches iv always found it much easier to pull the engine out the top rather than doing the box on your back ,, as a quick fix when iv been skint iv just stuck a recon plate in ,, cost all of 30 to have redone and didnt skim the fly and it worked a treat for around 2 years @ 380bhp , then I replaced the lot but wasn't due to anything going wrong I just went for more power so needed a uprated item or it would of last much longer
How much is involved with engine out? I do have an engine crane I could use so this could be an option. Where's the lifting points?
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Old 20 May 2017, 11:13 AM   #16
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Engine out is easy.
Don't forget to remove the clutch fork pin which ever way you choose to do it
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Old 20 May 2017, 11:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben_r1 View Post
How much is involved with engine out? I do have an engine crane I could use so this could be an option. Where's the lifting points?
for me its about making life easier as there is no way id be able to lift and line up the box from the floor so iv got used to removing the engine ,, takes me about 30-45 mins to have it on the floor ,,, normally lift from the alternator bracket and I have a bracket I attach at the other side rear where the top mount one would be as I'm front mount most of the time ,, as has been said remember to remove the clutch fork pin from the side of the gearbox before you start trying to lift anything out as the engine and box won't separate without it being removed ,, to remove the clutch pin take the Allen head plug out from just below the clutch slave cylinder ,,, the pin has a thread in the centre , to get to it out get one of the 10mm bolts from the cam covers and use that to grip the thread on the clutch fork pin and that gives you something to pull it out

hope this helps as I'm not great at writing these things lol
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Old 20 May 2017, 12:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben_r1 View Post
From what I can see it seems straight forward.

Front shafts out
Downpipe off
Prop off
Gear stick out
Bell housing bolts
Pull gearbox back

Missing any major steps?

noting the fecking heavy 6spd casting...........
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Old 20 May 2017, 01:07 PM   #19
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15 years experience he says!
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Old 20 May 2017, 05:45 PM   #20
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6 speed weighs around 87kg Dry
Tim Farmer preferred gearbox option on my gravel drive but he did have is son with him and didn't like the look of my engine bay lol
Trev
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Old 20 May 2017, 07:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs View Post
15 years experience he says!
I'm here for advice aren't I?

I have use of a very good transmission jack from work which allows the platform to rotate and tilt in all directions and securely mounts the gearbox to it via ratchet strapping.

I'm going to give it a go next weekend, gearbox off method. Got a couple mates coming round to help with the heavy hauling side.

How does the gearstick come off, through interior?
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Old 20 May 2017, 09:53 PM   #22
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I would say from my own personal experience that engine out is the easiest option. I've changed 5 speed boxes on the drive and I fitted my 6 speed on a lift. Engine can be removed on your own easily in an hour or so.
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Old 22 May 2017, 03:42 PM   #23
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Ok thanks. Going off the fact I have a transmission jack readily available but id have to hire or purchase an engine crane, I'm going to be removing the gearbox this weekend.

I also have engine rear main seal, driveshaft seals, metal oil separator plate and new slave cylinder for good measure to put on.

Can anyone think of anything else I'm going to need whilst the box is out?
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Old 22 May 2017, 04:53 PM   #24
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I'd change the nps while the gearbox is off aswell
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Old 22 May 2017, 11:20 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZANY View Post
I'd change the nps while the gearbox is off aswell
Good shout, ordered
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Old 22 May 2017, 11:33 PM   #26
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Gearbox Input shaft seal,mine was leaking a little when I took the engine out.
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Old 23 May 2017, 05:57 AM   #27
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I've done it both ways and engine out is very easy, gear box out is a mother f****er, on your back, all the crawling about in out up down, crap in your eyes and a ton an a half wobbling about above you while trying to free the gearbox... no thanks.... other thing is once the engine is out, it's in your face and that makes doing everything else very easy.

Engine out = nice easy job, loads of cups of tea and relaxing day.

Gearbox out = ball ache of a job, lots of swearing.

But hey I don't care how you do it, it's your car and your time.
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