Ben_r1

Afternoon all.

right dilemma here can't decide what's for the best.
have a ring trip in 3 weeks, 5 days and intend to do a fair few laps in that time.
Cars a 2004 Sti running a modest 315bhp and treated well with no launches or silly driving.
Clutch bite point has always been high but over the past few months it feels higher than usual, nearly top of pedal travel to fully engage clutch. It has never shown any signs of slip or judder etc.

Now obviously I don't want it to give up on me in Germany many miles away so debating if it's best to change myself as a precaution but at £600 with flywheel and the hassle of ripping the box out on the driveway a week before a ring trip I'm tempted to risk it and leave everything alone, if it ain't broke don't fix it kinda deal.

So what would you do? Assume it'll be okay despite high bite point suggesting a lot of wear or play it safe and perform a major operation on her before a long road trip?

Cars on 110k and as far as I know the original clutch, purchased it on 80k with an extensive and complete history but no mention of a clutch.

ZANY

Get it done for piece of mind as it's on your mind now doing your head in

Ben_r1

Is it a necessity to change or skim the flywheel at the same time? I've done countless clutches on cars over 100k re using flywheel with no problems in the past but the subaru stockists make a big point of voiding warranty if not done

lewis87

iTrader: (1)

I would have it changed, it would be a complete ball ache if it gave up over there and could ruin your trip.

Ben_r1

Recommendations on clutch kit? Only running 330bhp could I get away with an OE item?

ZANY

Don't go for the light weight item on the flywheel part spoils the drive imo although revs up quicker
I went for a rcm lightweight item when changing clutch in my last bug big mistake as I didn't like the drive would have cost half the price for a brand new genuine item but there was nothing wrong with the rcm flywheel just me



clutch wise for me has to be pink exedy all the way watch out for fakes

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

I believe minimum requirement would be to skim current fly wheel if putting new clutch on, most go for new flywheel because they want a lighter one for quick up rpm and quick down rpm.
But yes at that mileage if stock clutch and bite height is worrying you which is obvious lol
I'd get a new clutch in there if that long journey

Ben_r1

Ok thanks chaps. Next question...

How bad of a job is it? Considering I'll be doing it on a driveway, I have use of a transmission jack so no problems there.

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Possible if your mechanical minded and willing to lay on your back with that heavy *** 6 speed, unless you do engine out hoist option

Ben_r1

Yeah I'm a fitter by trade past 15 years, done countless clutches from Clios to transits etc. and done all my own work on the Scooby including cambelt, up pipe, new sump and so on.

Looks like I'll be busy next weekend then!

domino46

having done many many clutches iv always found it much easier to pull the engine out the top rather than doing the box on your back ,, as a quick fix when iv been skint iv just stuck a recon plate in ,, cost all of £30 to have redone and didnt skim the fly and it worked a treat for around 2 years @ 380bhp , then I replaced the lot but wasn't due to anything going wrong I just went for more power so needed a uprated item or it would of last much longer

AS Performance

iTrader: (4)

we carry pretty much all options on the shelf from OE to competition.........

0191-4103770

ZANY

Wouldn't advise it but has been done so not impossible to do but defo use axle stands aswell

Ben_r1

From what I can see it seems straight forward.

Front shafts out
Downpipe off
Prop off
Gear stick out
Bell housing bolts
Pull gearbox back

Missing any major steps?

Ben_r1

How much is involved with engine out? I do have an engine crane I could use so this could be an option. Where's the lifting points?

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

Engine out is easy.
Don't forget to remove the clutch fork pin which ever way you choose to do it

domino46

for me its about making life easier as there is no way id be able to lift and line up the box from the floor so iv got used to removing the engine ,, takes me about 30-45 mins to have it on the floor ,,, normally lift from the alternator bracket and I have a bracket I attach at the other side rear where the top mount one would be as I'm front mount most of the time ,, as has been said remember to remove the clutch fork pin from the side of the gearbox before you start trying to lift anything out as the engine and box won't separate without it being removed ,, to remove the clutch pin take the Allen head plug out from just below the clutch slave cylinder ,,, the pin has a thread in the centre , to get to it out get one of the 10mm bolts from the cam covers and use that to grip the thread on the clutch fork pin and that gives you something to pull it out

hope this helps as I'm not great at writing these things lol

AS Performance

iTrader: (4)

noting the fecking heavy 6spd casting...........

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

15 years experience he says!

trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

6 speed weighs around 87kg Dry
Tim Farmer preferred gearbox option on my gravel drive but he did have is son with him and didn't like the look of my engine bay lol
Trev

Ben_r1

I'm here for advice aren't I?

I have use of a very good transmission jack from work which allows the platform to rotate and tilt in all directions and securely mounts the gearbox to it via ratchet strapping.

I'm going to give it a go next weekend, gearbox off method. Got a couple mates coming round to help with the heavy hauling side.

How does the gearstick come off, through interior?

johnlogie

iTrader: (4)

I would say from my own personal experience that engine out is the easiest option. I've changed 5 speed boxes on the drive and I fitted my 6 speed on a lift. Engine can be removed on your own easily in an hour or so.

Ben_r1

Ok thanks. Going off the fact I have a transmission jack readily available but id have to hire or purchase an engine crane, I'm going to be removing the gearbox this weekend.

I also have engine rear main seal, driveshaft seals, metal oil separator plate and new slave cylinder for good measure to put on.

Can anyone think of anything else I'm going to need whilst the box is out?

ZANY

I'd change the nps while the gearbox is off aswell

Ben_r1

Good shout, ordered

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

Gearbox Input shaft seal,mine was leaking a little when I took the engine out.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

I've done it both ways and engine out is very easy, gear box out is a mother f****er, on your back, all the crawling about in out up down, crap in your eyes and a ton an a half wobbling about above you while trying to free the gearbox... no thanks.... other thing is once the engine is out, it's in your face and that makes doing everything else very easy.

Engine out = nice easy job, loads of cups of tea and relaxing day.

Gearbox out = ball ache of a job, lots of swearing.

But hey I don't care how you do it, it's your car and your time.

Ben_r1

Started this job at midday today, had to give up and hour ago for the day as I need feeding.

so about 5 hours spent on it, is the gearbox out? Is it ****.

I've spent a good three hours alone trying to remove the rusty nuts from the downpipe, two of which rounded and had to be chopped in half with the worlds bluntest chisel!

Its safe to say this is on the original clutch as every nut and bolt is rotten solid and putting up a fight, the bell housing bolts are ridiculously tight and can only be cracked off with the wheel brace and then the starter motor was seized solid to the block!

Anyway exhaust off, driveshafts out, prop shaft off, gear linkage off and all the lower mount and cross members loose ready to be removed tomorrow. Going off the rest so far I think it's safe to assume I'm going to have trouble parting the box and engine with those pesky dowels.

​​​​​​​wish me luck.

ZANY

It took me 3 hours on the ramp in and out first time when I did a six speed!! what b4stard it was luck got me I had decatted my downpipe so that part wa easy and your doing it on the floor! you soldier

Just take your time plenty of brakes and brews nice and easy don't fight with it go with the flow

All the best pal

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

Plenty of planing,loads of lube on the dp nuts before you started and engine out option!

You would have had it done in a day(easy day)

Engine out is No driveshaft out,no prop off etc..no crawling under the car!

Fair play tho as your giving it a go the way you wanted to and the same result at the end of the day