IN THE STICKS

I've just had my rear bumper sprayed due to a small dent that appeared overnight in it , when my wife picked the car up from the body shop who kept it overnight for the paint to set the guy asked if we had somewhere to keep it out of the rain , we didn't so he suggested she wipe the rain off of it to stop it marking the paint . She did this , but being England in November it's a bit tricky to stop rain hitting your car .I now seem to have slight rain marks on the paint that don't seem to want to come off ,though I obviously haven't tried any polish etc as the paint job is only 2 days old . Anyone heard of this before , or know if I'll be able to get rid of them when the paint has had time to harden up a bit ?

thanks for any help

Dave

John @ PB

Hi,

Was the paint baked/cured before you got the car back?

I'd recommend Werkstat Acrylic Prime http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...e-acrylic.html (or Prime Strong http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...me-strong.html) as this is a chemical cleaner, containing no abrasives, which should remove these marks.

Apply by hand with a microfibre pad and buff off with a clean microfibre towel.

nks

iTrader: (6)

I would not recommend Acrylic Prime at this stage. Can you post up a picture?

It maybe be condensation under the lacquer, the first thing I would suggest, is get a hair dryer or heat gun and warm the area up, you should see the marks disappear.

If not, send it back to the bodyshop as it is a poor job.

IN THE STICKS

Thanks for the quick replies guys , John I have some Acrylic Prime I bought from you guys a while back , I'll give it a go , but I think I'll leave it a while for the paint to cure so I don't ruin it .

nks ...I'll try a picture at the weekend , as it's dark when I leave the house and dark when I get home (don't you just love winter ) I'll try the hair dryer idea I like the sound of that

I must say I've had cars repaired before and I've never come across this before , probably due to the paint being water based now I guess

Dave

JAutos

iTrader: (5)

Firstly if it was baked then it wouldnt mark with rain, Baking speeds up the process of the paint drying.Firstly dont worry the marks are easily cured. If your not confident yourself then take it to the bodyshop who will machine buff the marks out and should only take minutes with G3. The bodyshop havnt necessarily done a bad job because this happened, but they shouldnt have given you your car back till it had dried overnight. There are many ways to stop this, you can use rocket which speeds up the drying times when not curing in an oven. Although experience with rocket is required as too much reduces the finish quality if you are not carefull.

Rushing giving jobs back early gives you this exact problem you have, a customer who thinks you've done a bad job. At worst 2000 wet and dry with flatting solution then machine buff is all it needs. If its not bad then it can be done by hand easily with G3 compound. Using a non abrasive product wont work as these fill the imperfections with waxes/silicones and over time they come back. using a light abrasive removes the very top layer of laquer (the impefections) then afterwords it can be polishes again. Although on fresh paint on certain polishes can be used as the paint has to be able to breath for a number of weeks to fully cure. Even oven baked paint needs a few weeks to fully cure

JAutos

iTrader: (5)

After reading the description on this it wont work on this particular job, reason is this cleans the surface. you need a compound to lose the imperfections as they are dried into the laquer, no amount of cleaning will remove them perminantly.

John @ PB

On further discussion here, we'd recommend you take the car back - the paint should have been fully cured before they handed the car back to you.

If you tackle this problem yourself and make it worse, you'll be liable for the next repair.

Modern paints need to be flash cured, usually under infrared light - the paint manufacturers will quote their flash/cure times.

I would not recommend wet and dry, sanding or attacking the paint with an aggressive compound - it may lift chunks of uncured paint.

At most, a very light finishing polish, on a soft paint at low speed would work but I'd recommend taking it back and getting it cured/baked properly. Frankly, any bodyshop not curing the paint fully and advising keeping the car dry when they hand it back, is in the dark ages.




* JAutos - Werkstat Prime doesn't fill with waxes or silicones but it does contain a type of solvent to cleanse paint. It will permanantly remove defects but by chemical clean, not abrasives. It is highly effective at removing water spotting from glass, for example. Farecla G3, however, is packed with fillers which mask defects.

IN THE STICKS

Once again guys many thanks for the excellent repiles , I'll wait until the weekend so I can see exactly what it looks like in daylight , then I'll wiz it back to the bodyshop who to be fair seem to have done a nice job apart from the rain , but obviously I need some daylight to be 100%

many thanks
Dave

JAutos

iTrader: (5)

I agree to take back to the body shop.

buts thats about it, firstly im a painter by trade and although recomended to cure paint in a booth or by infared light can be recommended and is the best way its not the only way. Firstly infa red is only for spot repairs ie smart repairers that go round to dealerships doing scratches etc, or in bodyshops they can be used for small areas, not usually a full bumper. Most booths are gas or oil powered for their heat depending wether downdraft etc, most modern are gas. as long as you have heat you have heat doesnt matter how. Also as for lifting chunks of uncured paint.... well if you give a buffer to a monkey maybe as its easily burnt with an inexperienced user but a proffessional wont lift paint. if they do then the prep work was substandard to start with as paint hasnt keyed to a poorly prepped surface.

As for the werkstat prime im not familiar with i as i use poorboys world products for detailing but no matter what your doing here with that werkstat stuff the paint needing cleaning isnt the issue, the water has landed in dropplets when laquer was soft, hence when the laquer cured overnight has dried with the marks made by the water these are impressions in the clearcoat not dirt. They will need an abrasive which will remove them. anything not abrasive will only mask them not eliminate them. Yes they may remove water marks from glass but when they landed and dried on the glass the actual glass was hard and solid so what the werkstat removes is the dirt and residue left by the water. not the impression the water has created in the paint in the case on on soft paint.

G3 is an abrasive compound not a polish or filler/sealer. After using G3 you need to polish as the paint is left clean with no protection. G3 is quite abrasive compared to some but in the right hands works extremley well.

I do also agree with the fact they shouldnt have given you the car back before it dried. using rocket you can air dry modern paint in 2 hours to be ready for buffing. without rocket it is more like 10 hours. also depends on temp of where the car is painted also.

John @ PB

I'm confused. On one hand you seem to say the paint's not cured properly (suggesting that water has penetrated the lacquer) and on t'other that it is cured as running a very strong abrasive (G3) won't lift chunks out of it. If you really want to try taking 2000grit, then G3 to uncured paint then be my guest.

If the paint's not been cured properly (as we appear to agree), the body shop hasn't done their job right. It needs repainted and properly cured.

You admit yourself that you're not familiar with Werkstat but then tell me that it won't work - how can you tell me this when you're unfamiliar with it? In this instance, I suspect it won't but to say it's just a filler/glaze is plain wrong.

G3 is a polish - any compound/abrasive by definition is a polish. It is also loaded with fillers - correct a panel with G3 then give it an IPA wipedown and you'll see the massive drop back. G3 is not alone in containing fillers, most polishes do whether designed to have fillers or in the shape of oils and waxes to help the polish work.

Original poster: Let us know how you get on. Personally, I'd take it back, get it repainted (again) and ensure it is fully cured before picking it up.

JAutos

iTrader: (5)

You try polishing a car with G3 and see how far you get then......
ITS A COMPOUND yes it may contain some fillers etc but its mainly abrasives as you also state.

I said werkstat wouldnt work from your website description of the product. So if your description is wrong change it.

Lastly waterbased or 2 pac paint (im assuming waterbased was used due to 2 pac been illegal to sell now) would both be as cured by now as it would be in a booth and would take G3 and a machine buffer easily. I paint car after car and all get buffed and polished up withinn 24 hours none of which lift any paint. Even with HS laquer its the same as 2 pac. either way both will be cured by now and repainting is a total waste of time if the marks can be removed by buffing.

Everybody shop ive worked in have used 1500 - 2000 wet and dry to flat a paint job then used G3 to buff it up before a breathable polish to finish all within 24 hours wether the job has been baked or not.

The baking just speeds up the process of what would happen naturally anyway.

But same again take back to the body shop as they should put it right. And i would be very suprised if G3 wasnt used or an equivelent product

John @ PB

I'm not going to debate this anymore.

I'm confident in what I've said and the products we use - I know what's in them and how to use them to best effect whilst removing minimal paint and ensuring a 100% correct finish.

The paint in this case is not correct and needs to be repainted and properly cured.

JAutos

iTrader: (5)

Everbody is entitled to their opinion mate and i dont want to get into arguments so lets leave it, I may be intrested in some products you sell actually depending on prices. I currently use the poorboys range for detailing but am open to try other things as poorboys can be a ballache to get over from the usa, my supplier has dissapeared recently. what can you offer for a full range from a strong abrasive, mild abrasive light abrasive, then polishes and sealers, cheers

John @ PB

The best idea initially would be to have a wee scan of the website and draw up a short list of what you think you'd need that'd suit your requirements best.

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...-polishes.html

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...nd-glazes.html

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...-sealants.html

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...uba-waxes.html

We do have much of the Poorboy's range in stock: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...-products.html

If you want to email me directly at enquiries@polishedbliss.co.uk a shopping list I can check stock etc

IN THE STICKS

Guys I'm glad you kissed and made up , I was starting to feel guilty for starting the thread , thanks for all the input , will report back after I've had a good look at the weekend

IN THE STICKS

All sorted , marks had gone by the weekend and the job looks fine . Strange as the marks wern't shifting earlier in the week . Thanks for the replies

nks

iTrader: (6)

Glad to hear the marks have dried up

As I said in my initial post #3 it was probably slight condensation under the lacquer - I have had this before on a freshly painted car. A warm air gun over the area would have been quickest to resolve.