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engine bay clean up

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Old 04 June 2008, 09:09 AM
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andyseston
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Default engine bay clean up

can some please advise me on the best way to clean up my engine bay. would it be ok to steam clean it and what stuff to use to getting it look like new.

cheers
Old 04 June 2008, 10:22 AM
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C_WRX
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Have a read through this :
https://www.scoobynet.com/car-care-3...re-washer.html

Also this :
Car Care Advice - How to safely clean and protect your engine bay

Just remember and cover up the parts that don't like water !
Old 04 June 2008, 11:51 AM
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andyseston
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what parts would you say dont like water.
Old 04 June 2008, 03:34 PM
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Rich @ PB
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Good diagrams on this thread...

https://www.scoobynet.com/car-care-3...ce-please.html

Old 08 June 2008, 09:35 AM
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SwissTony
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I have detailed all this on various forums

This is copied and pasted for you as you need access to this particular forum

Engine Cleaning

One of the most overlooked elements when cleaning and washing your car is your engine bay. Most people either assume that engine bays cannot be cleaned due to the nature of all the exposed electronics located there or the fact that it is not worth it as the engine will just be dirty again in a few days. A clean and dirt free engine bay has two benefits. One, it is easier to work on and diagnose various mechanical issues on a clean bay than a dirty , grime encrusted engine and second, a properly maintained bay will stay clean for months if protected well. Lastly the re-sell value of a car will improve if the engine is clean.
*Note this guide is based on a Subaru Impreza engine bay, however the principle of preparation and washing is the same regardless of the model.

Preparation

You need to cover various parts prior to using any cleaning products, sprays or water. These include the:
Alternator
Alarm Housing
Intercooler
Battery terminals (if not covered already)
Induction kit cone (if you have one)
Tin foil is a better alternative to using clingfilm for the alternator, alarm housing etc as it is easier to mould and has greater protection properties. I suggest you use a plastic bag for the induction kit and just wrap it tight over the end to stop any water ingress. Note: See the warning about this plastic bag further on*
For the intercooler the best way to cover is to get a flat sheet of cardboard and just cut it to size so it fits and covers the fins. Cardboard will normally protect the fins for the duration of the washing. It will get soaked so discard after the wash.


Cleaning Products

Everyone has their favourite product. There used to be a two can product from Halfords called CD2 which comprised off a degreaser and engine detailer. Unfortunately Halfords has stopped selling this in most of England (Scotland seemed to still stock it a while ago). Instead I use two products:
Meguiars Super Degreaser - Meguiars Car Care and Detailing Products
A cheaper high street alternative is GUNK in an orange can for the degreaser available from Halfords.
For sealing and protecting I use 303 Aerospace Protectant - 303 Car Care and Detailing Products. It leaves a nice satin finish.
If you want a shiny finish and a cheaper product (not so good) then use GUNK engine detailer and protector as the dress up agent, this comes in a blue can.

People also swear by Autoglym products, so no doubt you will find your favourite. I also like Autoglym's Vinyl and rubber trim cleaner, as it is a great product for cleaning and bringing up silicon hoses and any vinyl bits in the engine, such as airboxes, fusebox covers etc.
Read the instructions on these products carefully, as some of these solutions are quite abrasive to asphalt driveways so check first.

You will also need kitchen towels, a few old rags and a few brushes. You can either go mad with this one Elite Car Care - Elite Engine Degreasing Brush
or simply use a wheel brush to do the same job of agitating the de-greaser on heavily soiled parts of the engine bay.

The Cleaning

Degrease and brush
Since you have now covered the necessary parts, spray on the degreaser and let it work into the grime and grease. Agitate the really dirty parts with a coneshaped bristle brush or your wife's toothbrush. This will loosen the hard muck ready for the rinsing.
Rinse with water
Once done, time for a wash. Now here loads of people vary in their suggestions, depending on if they like pressure washers or just a hose. I have used a pressure washer on my engine bay for years now with no ill effect and so have no problem with them, however some people prefer to use a gentle stream of water from a hoseipe with various attachments.
You need to decide what you are comfortable with...
Dry and mop up
Once you have rinsed/jetwashed, then time to mop up. Pools of water will collect in various parts of the engine bay, so using kitchen towel or old rags, mop up the excess but dont wipe. When done, time to take off ALL the coverings you placed on earlier. This includes the plastic bag over the induction kit if you have one. Warning: I forgot to do this a few years ago and when I turned on the engine to dry,well lets just say my induction kit cone was 50% smaller in under 3 secs !!!!! whoops.


Once all the coverings are off, start up the engine and let run for 10 mins with the bonnet open. Then close the bonnet and run for another 5 mins. This heats up the engine bay and dries off most of the water excess. Mop up again with kitchen towel or rags if needed.

Detailing and dress up
Before detailing, cover all parts of the engine as before. Pay particular attention to the alternator as detailing solutions do not mix well with this engine part.
Using your dress up product of choice, spray liberally over the engine bay, making sure you get down in all the nooks and crannies. Many sprays come with little tubes to get into these difficult to reach areas. Obviously these products work well on all the hoses and plastic/vinyl bits of the engine. Watch your overspray at this point, because these products are not good if left on the windscreen or front wings and bodywork. Wipe off quicky if you overspray. Then leave the detailer on the engine bay to soak in. Remove all coverings as before BEFORE starting the engine. Again run for 10mins with bonnet up, 5 mins with bonnet down.

Finish
At this point, I take the car for a little burn down the road for about 10-15 mins to fully seal the detailer. I also give any shiny stainless steel bits in my enginebay a good wipe over and polish and use the Autoglym to wipe the hoses. I try not to wipe over any parts that have been detailed as the heat should have sealed it already.

Then just stand back and admire

HTH
Old 11 June 2008, 04:17 AM
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Brilliant post!
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