Fitting oil temp help??
I'm soon to be getting a mate to fit a oil temp gauge as I literally am about as usual with car parts as a goat playing tennis.
Anyway, I've purchased all the bits that I think my mate will need, can you please let me know if I need anything else? I'm not sure if the wires are going to be long enough? I've read the guide I found from the search and I think this is all I need.
Cheers
Anyway, I've purchased all the bits that I think my mate will need, can you please let me know if I need anything else? I'm not sure if the wires are going to be long enough? I've read the guide I found from the search and I think this is all I need.
Cheers
You'll need some more wire to run to the sender unit, also get some PTFE tape available from any plumbing supplier or Homebase/B&Q etc to put around the sender unit thread before it's screwed into the adapter.
Should have all you need then to fit this temp gauge
Should have all you need then to fit this temp gauge
If its a Oil / water temp sensor just two to the sensor.
( black and white normaly )
You should feed the cable from the cockpit through the rubber gromit to the left of the pedals. making sure it fixes out of the way of your feet

regards Linksfahrer
I literally have no idea what you guys are saying lol!
I'll show my mate who will be fitting it and hopefully he has an idea! Or if you could link me up to a suitable wire to purchase, I will purchase it!
Sorry for being a proper dunce!
I'll show my mate who will be fitting it and hopefully he has an idea! Or if you could link me up to a suitable wire to purchase, I will purchase it!
Sorry for being a proper dunce!
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Yes true one wire if your using the car/block as earth, looking at his picture again this would be the case , but looks like he is missing a spade terminal, his friend will have to solder it on. On gauges with K type thermocouple you would need both.
Matt can you get a photo of yours in the installed position
Not easily sorry, the intercooler has to be removed and if you look straight down you'll see a hexagon shape nut that needs to be removed and replaced with the nut that is shown in my first picture (you'll need a torch).
Best way to describe the location is if you consider the back of the intercooler the end nearest the windscreen, then look straight down from the front of the intercooler on the left hand side. You should see the nut then.
Best way to describe the location is if you consider the back of the intercooler the end nearest the windscreen, then look straight down from the front of the intercooler on the left hand side. You should see the nut then.
Don't use a sandwich plate.
Subaru put the sender positions where they are for a good rason: that's where they get the best results.
Oil pressure: where the OE oil pressure SWITCH is, using a remote fitting if either the new sender doesn't fit in the available space, or you actually want the oil pressure light too
Oil temperature: In the oil galleries above No3 cylinder, which is known to run hottest. As above.
A sandwich plate is lazy and gets different readings to what it should. It's made for cars whose designers gave no thought to gauges whatsoever.
Subaru put the sender positions where they are for a good rason: that's where they get the best results.
Oil pressure: where the OE oil pressure SWITCH is, using a remote fitting if either the new sender doesn't fit in the available space, or you actually want the oil pressure light too

Oil temperature: In the oil galleries above No3 cylinder, which is known to run hottest. As above.
A sandwich plate is lazy and gets different readings to what it should. It's made for cars whose designers gave no thought to gauges whatsoever.
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