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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 06:37 PM
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Default TMIC on Classic MY00

Hi guys

Thinking of getting a bigger TMIC, currently running the standard OEM one.

Is the OEM TMIC off of a P1 any bigger than the one I have at the moment? Easy swap?

If not, what should I go for?

Thanks.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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No difference apart from looks mate,

I would go for the STI 8 ic from the newage I'm running one and works great

View my garage for pics

Darc
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 08:46 PM
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I had a Sti 8 intercooler fitted to my last car a MY 00 Uk classic along with Vf 35 etc. The Newage Sti intercooler is a very tight fit in the classic. If I had to do it again I would fit a Frontmount. Steve.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ads78
Hi guys

Thinking of getting a bigger TMIC, currently running the standard OEM one.

Is the OEM TMIC off of a P1 any bigger than the one I have at the moment? Easy swap?
As has been said, the differences between that and what you've got are pretty much just cosmetic.

If not, what should I go for?
You haven't really given us the information we need to answer that question for you in a useful manner. The intercooler you would choose if your classic MY00 is bog standard, is obviously completely different to what you'd want if your MY00 classic is running a bigger turbo and 400bhp (or indeed you have plans to go that way in the foreseeable future), for example.

If your car's standard, to be honest there isn't a huge amount of point changing it - the standard IC will deal pretty well with what the turbo will be chucking out.

If you do want to fit something a bit better, newage STi intercooler, as has already been said, is one option, but if you aren't planning any big power hikes, tbh you'd be better off with an '01-05 WRX IC. Dirt cheap to buy, significantly better than what you have at the moment, and less hassle than the STi one to make fit. The other advantage of running a newage IC (whether the bigger or smaller sort) is that you can run the newage dumpvalve, which is better than what you've got.

You'll have to fabricate a couple of brackets to fit one, and maybe cut the coilpack mounting pillars a little so the coil and DV don't interfere with each other.

If you do decide to change the IC, make absolutely certain your mass airflow meter is in good nick and replace if in any doubt.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 11:12 PM
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Thanks all, especially Splitpin.

Fairly standard at present, just decat centre and Prodrive ECU.

I'd like to go up to around 300, so was thinking TD04 Hybrid, sports cat downpipe, simtek ECU (for dual map and to get rid of the poxy MAF), I guess there might be a couple of more things to add to that list, one of which could be the IC, I'm not sure how keen I was on the FMIC, or if it was necessary.

I'd not heard the suggestion of going for an 01-05 WRX IC before, that sounds easier, though I'm not going to be fabricating brackets anytime soon, but I guess my garage could.

Could probably do with some handling upgrades before though, and there is always the question of whether it is sensible to start increasing the power on a ten year old engine with 90k on the clock!
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ads78
Thanks all, especially Splitpin.

Fairly standard at present, just decat centre and Prodrive ECU.

I'd like to go up to around 300, so was thinking TD04 Hybrid, sports cat downpipe, simtek ECU (for dual map and to get rid of the poxy MAF), I guess there might be a couple of more things to add to that list, one of which could be the IC, I'm not sure how keen I was on the FMIC, or if it was necessary.
FMIC totally unnecessary at that spec, IME you'd lose more performance as a result of the increased induction tract volume than you could hope to gain in charge temp reductiosn. You could stick with the standard intercooler if you wanted, although the newage WRX or STi ones work better.

As far as brackets go, btw, we're talking a couple of simple metal shapes, nothing space age.

To be honest the Simtek is far from necessary with a setup like that too. The current design green stripe MAF sensors are not, in any way, "poxy", they're actually very reliable. Sure if you want the aftermarket ECU for the extra functionality it offers, that's one thing, but if the only reason you're thinking in that direction is because of concern about the airflow meter, the concern is unjustified. Ecutek remap will do you just as well (and in some ways better) for less money - which you'd then have free for handling/braking etc.

As far as upping the power on a 90K engine, if it's running fine now and has been well maintained, there's no reason not to, especially given that the spec you're looking at should be well within its capability, provided it's done right. If you look around you'll likely find plenty of people round here running much higher mileages than that.
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Splitpin
FMIC totally unnecessary at that spec, IME you'd lose more performance as a result of the increased induction tract volume than you could hope to gain in charge temp reductiosn. You could stick with the standard intercooler if you wanted, although the newage WRX or STi ones work better.

As far as brackets go, btw, we're talking a couple of simple metal shapes, nothing space age.

To be honest the Simtek is far from necessary with a setup like that too. The current design green stripe MAF sensors are not, in any way, "poxy", they're actually very reliable. Sure if you want the aftermarket ECU for the extra functionality it offers, that's one thing, but if the only reason you're thinking in that direction is because of concern about the airflow meter, the concern is unjustified. Ecutek remap will do you just as well (and in some ways better) for less money - which you'd then have free for handling/braking etc.

As far as upping the power on a 90K engine, if it's running fine now and has been well maintained, there's no reason not to, especially given that the spec you're looking at should be well within its capability, provided it's done right. If you look around you'll likely find plenty of people round here running much higher mileages than that.
Thanks again.

Very useful.

I think I was first attracted to Simtek as due to being able to run maffless, with the dual map being a bonus. I've changed the maf a few times and figured eventually the extra cost of the Simtek could pay for itself, but it is c£400 more so I could be convinced.
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 01:42 AM
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Is there any specific reason why you're going through sensors? Are you running an induction kit, or questionable air filter, for example, and how many is a "few"? Provided you're not doing anything silly there's no reason to believe a green stripe sensor won't last and stay reliable/accurate a good few years. The earlier ones were dodgy, most certainly, but Subaru eventually seem to have it sorted.

As you say Simtek has more bells and whistles, but is dearer, and also currently lacks some features like (at the moment at least) closed loop knock control that the JECS ECU . If I was in your shoes, looking at your proposed spec, I'd keep the standard ECU.
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 08:17 AM
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Splitpin, just thought I'd let you know, an s sneaked into reduction!

Oh, and if fitting a newage tmic, do the undertrays bolt onto a classic bonnet?

Last edited by Sabas; Jul 24, 2010 at 08:19 AM.
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 03:36 PM
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SP, would you replace the "green stripe/post 2006" MY99/00 MAF for a Q45 (rescaled in the remap), purely on proposed "reliability" grounds? (Please be advised that on the end of either MAF would be a 160mm trumpet/K&N cone, as well.)

Or is it a case of the change being "neither here nor there" re. potential MAF failure?

Last edited by joz8968; Jul 24, 2010 at 03:38 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 07:55 PM
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i've got the top mount off my 2004 blob wrx for £40 delivered if you want one can post pics if required in very good condition. steve

Last edited by stevros; Jul 24, 2010 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 08:08 PM
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Before I fitted the newage Sti intercooler to my classic I fitted the newage Wrx Intercooler. Very easy to fit with plenty of room. I only needed a piece of flat bar with a couple of holes drilled to extend the drivers side mounting. Steve.
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