Bigend has gone again after a full re-build. Ive taken it easy, runnin it in nice and smooth and the feckin thing has went again!! Whats goin on?? Anybody any ideas as this car is costin me toooo much cash Im ready for burnin it!!!

 

thats strange.. you taken it back to garage that did it?

 

Did you change ur oil pump, or find out why it went in the first place ?

 

Eeek, I'm so sorry for you mate!.

Sounds like a dodgy build.

Phone David at APi for some advice. Personally (subject to what went wrong), I'd be considering getting a full refund from the garage concerned and taking it elsewhere!

All the best getting it sorted.

Ns04

 

yup and if the garage who built it dont want to know trading standards would be my next step!

 

No refund, as it was my mate who did it has done a few scooby re-builds and ive known for 20 years and did it for cost price, as in no labour, i cant moan too much but its really pissed me AND him off(as he will be re-buildin it Again for free).i just want to know why and if its happened to anyone else or am i that unlucky?

 

Did you get to the bottom of why your oil pressure light came on with the last engine?
Did your mate re-use the oil pump from the last engine or put a new one in?

nick

 

Upgrade your oil pump on the next build, sorry for you mate.

 

Always always always change the oil pump after a bearing failure.
You must also renew the oil modine and throroughly clean the block by removing all the gallery plugs and comprehensively flush it out.

If you didn't change the oil pump then that would be your culprit.

Best bet is either an RCMS modified oil pump or the bigger 12mm AVCS pump.

Hope you fare better next time

 

its was upgraded mate. i spent a small fortune on parts ,no scrimpin, no savin, i tried to buy the best i could.
im now gonna buy the cheapest replacement i can and im goin to Knockhill on the 29 of jan to kick the **** out of it and blow the f**ker up again, from now on im havin fun!!!

 

everything was replaced from the heads down!

 

did you stick with the 2.oL or go to a 2.5?

 

2.0l

 

new block or second hand?

 

In that case, I suggest either there was a oil priming issue when it was first started. A seal problem on the oil pump or pickup side to the pump allowing air to be sucked in. Or the builder messed up on tightening torques and checking clearances/tolerances, which probably caused a tight bearing to be wiped out due to insufficient clearances.

Unless the oil pump failed - contradictory to common thought on these boards, an upgraded pump doesn't automatically mean its better or more reliable than the factory item (thats why if fitting a new one, I'll always use a factory Subaru pump. I don't trust any of the aftermarket ones, no matter how "uprated" they claim to be. But thats my opinion based on my experience of the non-OEM parts industry though).

Either way, back to the engine builder for an explanation.

 

Unfortunately, this does illustrate why it's not always a good idea to let a mate do the work, or go with the cheapest quote. Even if the OP isn't getting stung for labour, he's still wasted a fair bit in parts that are now scrap.

To the OP: I really think at the very least your mate needs to get advice from a competent Subaru engine builder before having another crack at it -for the sake of your pocket and sanity!

 

The engine builder is my mate , every thing was done to the letter, nothin was missed out and everythin was done as should be done! I am sick and tired of the bloody scooby! Im gonna get it fixed then constantly kick the **** out of it on track days then when it blows i'll wait till 5th november and burn it!!! I will NEVER biy another scooby again, and this makes me really sad as ived always loved them

 

subaru, ford vauxhall! If u can build a fiesta cossie and a 4wd turbo corsa u can build a standard impreza engine ffs!!

 

Impreza's r ****e buy an evo

 

The reasons why it failed can't be known without looking at the engine, but could be due to:

1. S/hand "rebuilt" short engine wasn't as good as it was advertised.
2. First start-up to get oil circulating went wrong.
3. Underlying problem with car. Your last engine went in a similar fashion. Poor fuelling may have leaned out mixtures to cause detonation with bearing damage.
4. Driving style. High & prolonged speeds may lead to very high charge temps.


Pull the engine apart and post up pictures, but don't bother rebuilding again until the repeating failure cause is known.

nick

 

Thanks nick for a sensible reply , i will strip both engines and post pics for ur viewing

 

I didn't say uprated I said modified. The pressure release valve in the standard pump has a grove in it and is prone to seizing. The modified one has this grove removed.

The only pump that is classed as uprated i.e flows more oil is the 12mm AVCS pump.

Also the modifed pumps are just that they are modified OEM items.

 

The only way you will no for sure is when the engine is opened up........

 

if i post pics can u tell me wot the problem is?

 

Yup, that should give some idea of what caused the failure.

Banny

 

If you post enough of them
Get close up pictures of all bearing surfaces, piston crowns, oil pick-up, metal debris in sump, plug ends for a start.

nick

 

The ones without the groves can stick as well, you know.

 

LOL, If you say so.

The one I have has been fine in several stages of build the latest of which will be circa 600bhp.

----Edited by webteam---

 

Was that comment at Ali really necessary, Daz? I very much doubt any of the mods would claim that their mod status elevates their knowledge of Subaru engines above non-mods!

Your valuable experience with building high power engines was all that was required in that reply! Please. lets not have the baiting, eh! You're better than that!

The post has been edited accordingly!

 

I would like to know what happened here as i seam to have low oil pressure on my engine that i just rebuilt. The only thing i did not replace was the oil pump so i have ordered a RCM one today.