hi all, im having a problem getting my crank toothed sprocket off. I need to change the damaged woodruf key, but the sprocket's solid! My query is, can i rotate the crank with the belt off, to get better access. I thought that the valves will be all but closed, so should clear the pistons. Thanks, mit

 

Not all closed m8 you may have to turn the cam or cams as you get to a point where they touch,and dont forget to time it all back up later

 

I would also like to know how to do this, I tried to get mine off to replace the woodruff key and crankshaft oil seal, but could not get it off, tried levering it with a screwdriver and loads of plusgas, nothing. I ended up putting it back together and leaving it, I'm even considering getting another engine.

 

Thanks,i've finally managed to get it off,in bits!!Also managed to damage the oil pump,so a good days work! I had no choice but to get angry with it, gives me a good reason to fit an uprated pump i spose. I did turn the crank,very carefully,an all sems ok.But i wouldn't advise anyone to do it without checking first! Api to ring tommorow for bits i think!

Mit

 

How did you manage to smash it off? What did you use and did you manage to get the toothed wheel off or just the woodruff key?

 

Can you not use a puller to draw it off ?

 

Well....after heating it,using freezer spray,wd40 ect,none of which worked, i got two screw drivers behind it on each side,and hit them...lots! I knicked the pump across the seal,and once i realised it needed changing it gave me the confidence to get heavy with it! A timing lug snaped off the toothed cog in the 'angry' stage!
I did search for a puller,but couldn't find one slim enough to fit behind the cog.

 

When I did it I think in the end I used a lump hammer, big crowbar and half a can of Plusgas to get the ******* off. Wrecked the oil pump.

 

you lot are animals!

 

Yep,i bite too!!! But every proper bloke loves a war story to tell,gives us pub chat!!!

 

A smear of Copper-slip or Moly grease on the crankshaft snout on re-assembly should prevent the gear "welding" itself in place again.


Mick