Apologies for repost in different section also

Only had my Litchfield Spec C one day & loving every minute of it, so excuse me for my questions!

I am quite sure that this is a charachteristic of the Scooby mainly to do with suspension type & the anount of power being displaced. But I have found that when putting my foot down averagley to hard - giving it a bit of beans, there is a certain amount of front wheel torque or over steer. This can require a very slight correction on steering but mainly Iv been leaving alone & let things settle rather than trying small opposite lock & get into more problems!
This is not a case of rear end stepping round or anything, just under power the front end raising up & steering subsequently going light & front end not planted but aloof.

This I imagine is a normal scooby trait, but to correct it am I looking at e.g a Litchfield Type 20 package with droplinks/anti roll bars etc or would just a set of Eibcah springs do the job? Or maybe an anti lift kit which iv read a bit about but not 100% sure how it will affect this?

Any help appreciated! Maybe I just have to get used to the new driving style & the huge power the turbo delivers all at once!!

 

Call Powerstation and talk to Curtis.
He will sort you out.

 

Thanx mate, I did speak to Tim at Litchfield yesterday who did recommend the Type 20 conversion.
Is this one of the reasons why Scooby owners go for uprated suspension packages etc or is this torque oversteer something Im being too picky about??

 

With the right mods the Impreza can be made to drive very neutrally, with lift-off (in a bend) oversteer and power-on understeer virtually gone (in the dry)

Most of this is down to the right spring rates (of the road springs and roll bars) and the right geometry numbers in the right place.
Some parts have to be changed to allow the technician to get the numbers.

Paramount is finding the guy who knows how to dial the numbers in. Curtis is one of those people. Powerstation do all the Litcho cars.

You need to beware of stiffening the car too much or you will be lifting a rear wheel and will need a plated rear diff and so the game moves on.

The dccd version of the gearbox will deal with a lot of issues and when pushing very hard is worth every penny of the cost . You need to get the setting right though, and it is very sensistive to position.

I have had the Type 20 and I'm now on the 3 way full race AST's for the road and track.

This clip is of the car on the 3 ways with several Whiteline mods, and a 'Curtis set-up'. It has been further modified since.
The track is damp.

DropShots.com

Same car, different track, in the dry:
DropShots.com

The car attitude is very similar with the damp run on a trailing throttle to start with and in the dry, full throttle through the bend.

 

Wow. great clips & driving. Is that Goodwood, that must be pretty scarey with those armcos & buildings so close on the track Your car seemed very neutral & balanced throughout, looked like a good time from what the chap on the tannoy was saying!

Thanks for the info, I think I will get used to the car as is for a while, play around with the diff settings a little & learn the car slowly. Another trip to Donnington will be needed soon to really get to grips with the handling, bearing in mind it is the first turbo & 4wd car I have owned. Previously all have been big engined N/A RWD cars which IMO were more progressive when letting go in & out of corners etc. Interesting point about not lowering or stiffening suspesion on car too much to avoid rear wheel comming up in corners, I think rather than a scooby newbie like myself tring to apply a hit & miss approach, its best left to experts at Powerstation when the time comes.

 

Clip # 1 is at Harewood House hillclimb, and those buildings are VERY close at those speeds.
The second clip is at Barbon Manor hillclimb in the Lake district.
I won the class and set new class record! First (and maybe only) time in my racing life!

The car is a peach. And for anyone reading this FOR SALE.

Sorry!
Graham.