Oil – You get what you pay for!
Oil – You get what you pay for!
Costs of synthetics vary considerably. The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils.
The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, they are dug out of the ground and not manmade. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked” oils.
“Hydrocracked” oils have some advantages over their equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 and 5w-40 and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”.
So, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”?
Well, it all came about from a legal battle that took place in the USA more than ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.
Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included some “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.
So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics. The economics are very simple though.
If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case, it’s really only a highly processed mineral oil.
But, if you drive a high performance or modified car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day” or “1/4 mile”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.
These oils cost more money to buy, because they cost a lot more money to make.
Very simply, you always get what you pay for, cheap oils contain cheap ingredients, what did you expect!
The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, they are dug out of the ground and not manmade. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked” oils.
“Hydrocracked” oils have some advantages over their equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 and 5w-40 and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”.
So, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”?
Well, it all came about from a legal battle that took place in the USA more than ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.
Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included some “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.
So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics. The economics are very simple though.
If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case, it’s really only a highly processed mineral oil.
But, if you drive a high performance or modified car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day” or “1/4 mile”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.
These oils cost more money to buy, because they cost a lot more money to make.
Very simply, you always get what you pay for, cheap oils contain cheap ingredients, what did you expect!
The Millers CFS range is a 3 ester blend while the Silkolene is single ester, however the Millers is an "older" spec. API SJ rating as opposed to the Silkolene's SL. I would doubt the updated spec. makes any real difference in the use we make of the oil and the change periods we tend to use.
Both are good oils. If you're using Millers - no probs.
JohnD
Both are good oils. If you're using Millers - no probs.
JohnD
Last edited by JohnD; May 24, 2007 at 10:40 PM.
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The Millers CFS range is a 3 ester blend while the Silkolene is single ester, however the Millers is an "older" spec. API SJ rating as opposed to the Silkolene's SL. I would doubt the updated spec. makes any real difference in the use we make of the oil and the change periods we tend to use.
Both are good oils. If you're using Millers - no probs.
JohnD
Both are good oils. If you're using Millers - no probs.
JohnD
I'm using Silkolene - so it's all good.
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surely with these superior oils then the oil change frequency should be a little longer if anything. But I am still hearing of peeps changing every 3000 miles
I assume they are doing loads of track days or have plenty of money. I use silklene pro s
ken
I assume they are doing loads of track days or have plenty of money. I use silklene pro s
ken
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Hi Oilman,
I have an early STi type RA, I've always used Millers brand oil and change every 3000 miles.
I've stuck with Millers because I've had not any "evident" problems and the prices are good.
The car is moderately modified.
What oil would you recommend running my scoob on.
Also if I were to stick with Millers, what would you recommend
Your recommendation would be highly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
I have an early STi type RA, I've always used Millers brand oil and change every 3000 miles.
I've stuck with Millers because I've had not any "evident" problems and the prices are good.
The car is moderately modified.
What oil would you recommend running my scoob on.
Also if I were to stick with Millers, what would you recommend
Your recommendation would be highly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Costs of synthetics vary considerably. The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils.
The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, they are dug out of the ground and not manmade. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked” oils.
“Hydrocracked” oils have some advantages over their equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 and 5w-40 and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”.
So, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”?
Well, it all came about from a legal battle that took place in the USA more than ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.
Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included some “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.
So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics. The economics are very simple though.
If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case, it’s really only a highly processed mineral oil.
But, if you drive a high performance or modified car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day” or “1/4 mile”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.
These oils cost more money to buy, because they cost a lot more money to make.
Very simply, you always get what you pay for, cheap oils contain cheap ingredients, what did you expect!
The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, they are dug out of the ground and not manmade. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked” oils.
“Hydrocracked” oils have some advantages over their equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 and 5w-40 and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”.
So, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”?
Well, it all came about from a legal battle that took place in the USA more than ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.
Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included some “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.
So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics. The economics are very simple though.
If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case, it’s really only a highly processed mineral oil.
But, if you drive a high performance or modified car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day” or “1/4 mile”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.
These oils cost more money to buy, because they cost a lot more money to make.
Very simply, you always get what you pay for, cheap oils contain cheap ingredients, what did you expect!
Hi,
Fine, the millers claims to be tripple ester, the Silkolene is single ester so the quality should be there. The only thing that concerns me about the millers oil is the old out of date specs it meets, well according their website when I last looked.
Cheers
Guy.
Fine, the millers claims to be tripple ester, the Silkolene is single ester so the quality should be there. The only thing that concerns me about the millers oil is the old out of date specs it meets, well according their website when I last looked.
Cheers
Guy.
The Silkolene use higher quality additives, base stock etc and is built to be the best regardless of cost or spec.
Cheers
Guy.
For normal road use on a fairly standard car the Silkolene will go up to 10,000 miles with ease.
Cheers
Guy
Hi Oilman,
I have an early STi type RA, I've always used Millers brand oil and change every 3000 miles.
I've stuck with Millers because I've had not any "evident" problems and the prices are good.
The car is moderately modified.
What oil would you recommend running my scoob on.
Also if I were to stick with Millers, what would you recommend
Your recommendation would be highly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
I have an early STi type RA, I've always used Millers brand oil and change every 3000 miles.
I've stuck with Millers because I've had not any "evident" problems and the prices are good.
The car is moderately modified.
What oil would you recommend running my scoob on.
Also if I were to stick with Millers, what would you recommend
Your recommendation would be highly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Cheers
Guy.
Specs wise not a lot, they are just up to date and meet a lot of high spec VAG and BMW specs. What they have done at the moment any way is make the oil to the quality they say it is.
With the old RS especially the 10w-60 they reduced the quality of it so people werent buying what they thought they were buying.
Cheers
Guy.
With the old RS especially the 10w-60 they reduced the quality of it so people werent buying what they thought they were buying.
Cheers
Guy.
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strange then that both Motul (double ester base) and Millers (triple ester base) would appear to be ahead of the game.....................
and you will find no issue at all with 10w60 on a modded car 'thickness' not withstanding...............
alyn
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From: Bebind the wheel of my red rice rocket
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From: Bebind the wheel of my red rice rocket