I have an MY95 wrx import. Got given the car by a friends family after he passed away.

The car seems standard apart from bailey dump valve and k&n filter.

Check engine light is on. Read the ecu codes and found 34 & 45, boost solenoids. After cleaning and checking and cleaning all the pipework and restrictor and maf sensor still no joy so ordered replacements from grade a.

The car seemed fine for about 30 miles now back in limp home mode (rev limiting at 3500rpm) CEL back on and now showing code 24, 31 & 33. After resetting the ecu again the car seems to be holding back and very reluctant to accelerate properly, then the CEL is back on.

Speedo now not working for some reason.

Could do with some helpful suggestions to point me in the right direction.

Could this be something to do with coil packs or are the other sensors knackered as well??

Thanks in advance

Ed

 

Chances are that part of the speedo cable has broke or has come loose.
Hence the fault code 33. This would also put the car into limp mode. Check the longer speedo cable first if its fine then re-connect.
If the speedo still does not work the check the shorter speedo cable (gearbox end).

Main Heading Goes Here

Here is a link for the codes

24: Idle air control solenoid
31: Throttle position sensor
33: Vehicle speed sensor

Considering your cell is back on recheck if you still have 24,31 codes.
Check there connection if good then you might have to replace both sensor. You could try cleaning the idle air control solenoid using brake cleaner (spray).
Tps will need replacing if faulty.


Ticky

 

Ticky

Thanks for the reply buddy. When you say longer and shorter cables where are they located???

I think i've seen a cable type thingy running up from the gearbox. Does it have a box connecting the 2 parts??

 

That's the converter to turn the speed reading from kph to mph

 

Yes thats correct as mention above thats the convertor.
The shorter cable is between the convertor & gearbox.
The longer cable is between the convertor & speedo (clocks)

There is usually a U shaped metal spring clip thats holds the speedo cable to the convertor & the same with the shorter cable.
Double check if you still have these.

With the lower trim panel above the foot pedals removed you should be able to get your hand up to the back of the clocks & check if the cable in fully pushed into the back of the speedo, saves time removing the clocks etc but can be a bit tricky. Visually check the longer speedo cable for kinks or outer casing damage. With the longer cable removed check if the inner cable spins freely by hand. If you struggle to turn the spindle (inner cable) by hand then it needs replacing.
The shorter cable has a square slot spindle end fitment to the inner cable. This spindle can also break away from the inner cable so check that too.

Ticky